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Any Ideas?

 
  #16  
Old 06-22-2008, 04:45 PM
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You can use some silicone on the splines after there cleaned. Also clean inside the yoke. Clean the washer and the surface where the washer seats inside the yoke. add some silicone there aswell and it should solve the leak. dont drown these areas in silicone just a light coat will work.
 
  #17  
Old 06-22-2008, 10:47 PM
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quote "you'll need to polish the surface on the pinion yoke the seal rides on. if it's pitted from rust or has bad grooves where the new seal rides it won't do any good to intall a new seal, and and you'll need a new yoke also."
You can install a "readi sleeve" on the old yoke and it will give you a brand new seal surface. Much cheaper and easier to find than a new yoke. I did my 9" and it solved all my problems.
 
  #18  
Old 06-22-2008, 10:51 PM
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Thanks Don, that made me think of a question..

should I replace the seal AGAIN (it was new, has about 3 miles on it) if I pull the yoke out? Its not leaking against the seal.. its leaking against the splines.
(brake cleaner, and silicone here I come!)..

Sam
 
  #19  
Old 06-23-2008, 10:22 AM
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also, do I have to drain the diff? Obviously fluid wants to flow out the splines, so the gear oil should be about mid level on the splines..

Sam
 
  #20  
Old 06-23-2008, 10:54 AM
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Sam,
mark the pinion shaft before you pull the seal housing and pinion out, so you can put it back with the same teeth in contact as before. There is a shim between the bearing housing and the main housing, be sure to put it back as it was. The pinion bearing housing has a square O ring on it to seal. Be sure to replace it or it will leak.Oil it good when you slide it in. You can get new crush sleeves at O Reilys. When you tighten the nut to hold the yoke, it will take a long cheater. Tighten it and rotate the housing until you just feel a little drag on the bearing when you turn it. Put it back in just like it came out and you should be good to go..
 
  #21  
Old 06-23-2008, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by dongc1 View Post
Sam,
mark the pinion shaft before you pull the seal housing and pinion out, so you can put it back with the same teeth in contact as before. There is a shim between the bearing housing and the main housing, be sure to put it back as it was. The pinion bearing housing has a square O ring on it to seal. Be sure to replace it or it will leak.Oil it good when you slide it in. You can get new crush sleeves at O Reilys. When you tighten the nut to hold the yoke, it will take a long cheater. Tighten it and rotate the housing until you just feel a little drag on the bearing when you turn it. Put it back in just like it came out and you should be good to go..

sorry, am confused..

1. how can you feel drag on the bearings with the wheels, tires & brakes installed?
2. the prior text said not to disturb the bearings or the pinion seal, thus no crush collar change.

I just want to know if I am going to have gear oil pouring out of the pinion seal when I pull the yoke out..

I have a torque multiplier that should help too. but I don't think I need to redo the crush collar based on the prior alignment posts..

Sam
 
  #22  
Old 06-23-2008, 06:07 PM
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You may lose some oil. You can always jack up the front to get the oil to flow more towards the back.(use safty stands) Beats pulling the cover.Just make all your centre punch marks and reinstall everything exactly the way it came apart including the number of turns on the nut.
 
  #23  
Old 07-05-2008, 07:33 AM
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Ok, done.. did loose about 1/4 quart of gear oil.. cleaned & used some sealer on the outer 1/3 of the yoke splines and the back of the nut. Back on to the marks lined up.

We'll see how that goes..

Sam
 
 
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