I have two busted up Hella spots on my 2003 F-150's brushguard right now. I live in South Florida and drive through heavy storms often. During the hurricanes we get I am out in the truck assisting emergency services. I'm torn between spots again or floods this time around. Someone told me to get both but, I'd like recommendations from you guys.

Thanks for your time.

 

i have spots in the front for driving and floods on the side for seeing to the sides. but i have 6 spots my 2 headlights and 2 floods in the front then 2 floods to each side and 2 floods in the back for the bed, also 2 floods under the truck at about a 45* to the back and side to help with that area...oh its a 1970 crew cab with a roof rack and front light bar.

 

Can you take a picture of your set up and list the brand and models of your lights, please?

Are floods the same as fogs? I want two pencil beam spots and some square lights to provide area illumination around the front.

 

if you click on my useer name and then on view gallery i have some pics there.

the 2 big square ones are KC day lighters (really old ones) the 4 round ones on the rack are pro comp 100WAT deals that came free with the rack, all the other ones are off of old construction equpment, ie dont know a brand for them. but if you are going to be running lots of lights make sure you run them off of relays not just a switch.

and i dont know if fogs are the same a floods

oh and welcome to FTE there is a lot of really good info on here, take a look around.

 

AAK did you take a look in my gallery? was it helpful? if you want some more pics i can upload them tonight (i am at work right now) when i get home...

if you have busted up lights now there is probably a reason why they got busted you might want to look into a roof light bar, i do have a little problem with the lights on my light bar getting hit or moved but the ones on the roof rack dont get rocks or anything, as long as you dont go under low hanging stuff, ie parking garages...but if you only need light in the front 2 spot lights and 2 flood lights should work out just fine for you. I go camping a lot and need side and back light also. and on trials it is nicer the brighter it is so that is why i have so many lights, i also like to have options on what gets light up.

 

To each their own - use whatever feels right OR does the job. Fog lights have a thin flat beam - pencil beams have a small concentrated beam - flood lights have a broad (flood) beam for lighting a large area. I use "ag lights" (farm tractor) for back-up lights. The sizes and styles are different for the same type of light. Some people like big/large lights - I like smaller lights that do the same job. Fogs are usually amber. Look at the lens, you'll notice a difference between types. I've also added a battery isolator & 2d battery with a seperate fuse block. That way it saves the 'main' battery AND you can jump start yourself. I've also had the alternator rebuilt to higher amp < LOTS cheaper than buying a new one.

 

yeah i also added a second bat and bigger alt. it makes the biggest difference in the world when you have lots of draw on the batteries.

i would have to agree with you george that bigger is not always better with lights. out of all of my lights the ones that i am the most happy with are the construction equpiment ones....

 

I took a look at your rig, Brady, very nice. Which floods are those on your roof rack?

Here's the thing about a roof rack. In my application, the less sticking up, the better. I assist emergency services during and after hurricanes here in South Florida. I've had more close calls with things flying over me, then debris hitting my guard up front.

I have an Optima Yellow Top with a factory alternator. I have four aftermarket speakers, two amplifiers and one subwoofer. Would four auxiliary lights be a cause for concern?

 

the floods are on the side and they are off of some old back hoes and front loaders so i dont know, the front ones are procomp.

as for your bat and alt, the only time you would really run into much of an issue is you are running all the lights and the radio is cranked up as loud as it goes and you keep turning the engin on and off and on and off, but if you notice that when your sub hits your lights dim you might want to think about a bigger alt. the second battery for me is so when we get to our camp site i can turn my engin off and not wory about draining the battery. when i got the second battery i also had 2 12s and about 3000wats of amps a PS2 and a back up camara with a 7 inch screen, so at sometimes i would be drawing lots of power witht he engin off and wanted to be sure i could start it back up.

 

Piaa makes several combo lights, and Katz Fetz makes a 7" dual filament light.

Yes, each light pulls about 4 amps, so 16 for your lights, the amps could take anything from 5-100amps. The stock alternator is at best 140amp, the truck probably uses 80 amps to run at it's least, and closer to 110 at load (A/C, radio, lights, ect). You need a little bit of room for the alt to charge the battery. Depending on your amps, you could use an upgrade.

The idea is to not use the battery while the engine is running, it's just for reserve and starting.

 

i have seen those lights before but never in the dark how well do they really work?

 

You guys know what you're talking about and I do not. Let's sidestep for a moment, please. Here's what I'm getting installed/have installed:

Four in-door speakers to replace factory set:
MMC570 Car Audio Speaker from Polk Audio

Amp to run the speakers:
Kicker ZX650.4 4-channel car amplifier 120 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

Subwoofer:
MTX ThunderForms 2001-2003 Ford F-150 Supercrew at Crutchfield.com

Amp for the Sub:
Kicker 06ZX400.1 Amp: Mono

Provided I don't buy HID super lights, will I be able to run these items and the four lights I pick without any compromises?

Thank you guys for your help.

 

well you did it before right? i really dont know much about the numbers when i do stuff i try it and if it works i run with it if i have problems i change stuff. Before at night when i had my head lights on and my heater running and my turn signal on if i reved up my engine my lights would get briter my fan would spin faster and my turn signal would go faster, so i got a better alternator. this was before my amps and subs and TV and stuff. i think ReAX might know better how to find the amount of amps that get pulled. if you are woried about it you could just not run the lights if you want to bump it, or turn your radio off when you need the lights. But if it were me i wouldnt worry to much about it, but i am willing to push then envalope and fix things if they brake...so please dont come back and say well you said....

 

Heh, it's best I know beforehand. I can't afford to fix things. The burglary set me back as it is. They stole the first amp I had installed.

Back OT, though.

 

I will know next week when I am a mobile electronics certified professional. However, 120 watts takes 10 amps at 12 volts, so I'd figure 10 amps for th1t amplifier. So think 80 amps for the truck, 16 amps for the lights, 10 amps for amplifier 1 and 33 for amp 2 gives you 136 amps. So under full load, A/C, Headlights, ect your going to exceed your alternator and start sucking off the battery when the engine's running.