2008 F550 Twim turbo 6.4
#1
2008 F550 Twim turbo 6.4
Fuel filters, The engineer that designed the layout underneath the driver seat should be skinned. The dealer wants $150 to change out the two filters, I say phooey on that. However, The one canister on top of the motor next to the oil filter seems easy enough to change but am very reluctant to do so. Meaning, pressure release on the fuel filter? If I begin to unscrew it, will Diesel come gushing out? The one underneath is even worse; A fat *** wiring harness is right in front of the filter cap, I mean you must move the harness, ****ing idiot. Been driving the truck now for 7 months, no indication to drain the water sep. thing yet either. But was told by one dealership to loosen the small allen head bolt next to the lever on the unit to release pressure. Now I'm not sure what to do. The filters are 90 bucks. Is the fuel filter unpressureized like the oil filter after a time of cool down? Changing the oil on this beast of a motor is very easy, fuel filters are like right there to be dealt with, appreciate any guidance, anyone. Scott
#4
I agree with everything you said. I ordered the filters online for 42 bucks per kit (includes both needed). After doing mine the first time I called the dealer to see how much they wanted and they said $185.
I moved the wiring harness a little.
The one under the hood was no big deal. No sign of pressure. I opened it up, pulled the old and dropped in the new.
I wonder if I couldn't find a really big hill for the next fuel filter change. I don't even know if that would help me. I may go to a buddy's shop just so I can stand up under the truck and move out of the way of all the fuel running down the frame rail.
That design engineer should be sentenced to change fuel filters on these trucks every day for the rest of his life!!
I moved the wiring harness a little.
The one under the hood was no big deal. No sign of pressure. I opened it up, pulled the old and dropped in the new.
I wonder if I couldn't find a really big hill for the next fuel filter change. I don't even know if that would help me. I may go to a buddy's shop just so I can stand up under the truck and move out of the way of all the fuel running down the frame rail.
That design engineer should be sentenced to change fuel filters on these trucks every day for the rest of his life!!
#5
sadly, everything on todays vehicles are designed with ease of assembly in mind, not to make things easy for us to work on. they also like to make things hard to work on so we will get tired of complaining and take it to them so they can charge $185 to do it lol. ive got two cars from the 60's and i can change the oil filter without even getting under the car. with enough room to make a full 360 degree turn with my filter wrench. what i hate is all these new oil filters that are pointing towards the ground so you have to poke a hole in the bottom and let them drain before you take them off.
#6
thanks mang
I agree with everything you said. I ordered the filters online for 42 bucks per kit (includes both needed). After doing mine the first time I called the dealer to see how much they wanted and they said $185.
I moved the wiring harness a little.
The one under the hood was no big deal. No sign of pressure. I opened it up, pulled the old and dropped in the new.
I wonder if I couldn't find a really big hill for the next fuel filter change. I don't even know if that would help me. I may go to a buddy's shop just so I can stand up under the truck and move out of the way of all the fuel running down the frame rail.
That design engineer should be sentenced to change fuel filters on these trucks every day for the rest of his life!!
I moved the wiring harness a little.
The one under the hood was no big deal. No sign of pressure. I opened it up, pulled the old and dropped in the new.
I wonder if I couldn't find a really big hill for the next fuel filter change. I don't even know if that would help me. I may go to a buddy's shop just so I can stand up under the truck and move out of the way of all the fuel running down the frame rail.
That design engineer should be sentenced to change fuel filters on these trucks every day for the rest of his life!!
#7
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#8
$upercrew,
On the one in the frame rail, it did make a mess out of everything. I didn't rush as there is no room to rush. I loosened it until it started leaking and then tried to use the shop towels I had placed everywhere to soak up all the diesel. I thought I had it under control until it dripped into my mouth and then into my hair. I was at arms length trying to avoid just what happened. It flowed to the frame and then it was dripping from about 2.5 feet of the frame.
Start up was more difficult than anticipated. I cycled the key 5 or 6 times like the book calls for. It started right up, sweet! And then it died. I did this a few times with the same results. Finally I gave it a little foot and it was purring like a kitten again. Next time I'll give a little foot sooner than later.
Let me know if I left anything out.
Allan
On the one in the frame rail, it did make a mess out of everything. I didn't rush as there is no room to rush. I loosened it until it started leaking and then tried to use the shop towels I had placed everywhere to soak up all the diesel. I thought I had it under control until it dripped into my mouth and then into my hair. I was at arms length trying to avoid just what happened. It flowed to the frame and then it was dripping from about 2.5 feet of the frame.
Start up was more difficult than anticipated. I cycled the key 5 or 6 times like the book calls for. It started right up, sweet! And then it died. I did this a few times with the same results. Finally I gave it a little foot and it was purring like a kitten again. Next time I'll give a little foot sooner than later.
Let me know if I left anything out.
Allan
#9
I havent looked under mine yet but there is supposedly a yellow handle for draining the water/fuel out of the assembly (the 6.0 had an allen head screw so Ford made a nice improvement). Typically you would want to park on a hill or jack up the front of the truck and dont do this with a full tank. Yes, you are going to lose some fuel in the process but by using the drain the hope is that you can control it. Check out the 6.0 tech folder for more details. Its the same process on the 6.4 except the filter is a different part number and there is a lever instead of a screw.
#10
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Concord, New Hampshire
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Hey guys, just so you know, after you change your fuel filters, ford has made an updated procedure to bleed the air, there is and adapter that is a total pain in the **** that has to go on the fuel return line by the cooler, they are saying that it will damage the high pressure fuel pump to start it with air in it? just do yourselves all a favor, when you change the top filter, you CAN NOT be to clean, a small peice of dirt will hang open an injector, and it just dumps in the fuel, so far from what ive seen, and worked on, it will usually have fuel dripping out of the tailpipe by time it stalls.
#11
1st on the lower fuel filter you must drain first open drain lever to let out any fuel in system then replace filter less of a mess learned this the hard way there is no presure on ether cap .Also went to parts store and pickt up filters for around 50.00 for the set make sure you get the right ones later models take the M# 4906 not the 4604
#12
Just as info. I changed my motor oil at 4,000 miles. Mistake I made, I opened the fuel filter rather than the oil filter. When I saw nice clean fuel, I immediately replaced the fuel filter.
It seems to me that they reversed the fuel filter and motor oil filter from the 6.0 on the 6.4's. I cycled the key three times and no trouble, just hurt my ego.
On a previous post I see that Ford provides a 4 TON jack that I used to change a flat. I will have to use that to get under mine to drain water and change filter.
It seems to me that they reversed the fuel filter and motor oil filter from the 6.0 on the 6.4's. I cycled the key three times and no trouble, just hurt my ego.
On a previous post I see that Ford provides a 4 TON jack that I used to change a flat. I will have to use that to get under mine to drain water and change filter.
#13
fuel filter changeout
There is no pressure for the fuel filter mounted on top of the engine next to the engine oil filter(by the way, this is the same location as it was with the 6.0PSD, though the fuel filter is now larger). Be sure and change out the o-ring on the cap and do not over-torque the plastic caps. The frame mounted filter is a bit more difficult but still pretty simple. I am amazed to read that other owners are not first draining the water/filter seperator by using the very convenient lever. So much easier than the plug on the 6.0 equipped trucks. If you have had your 6.4 more than two months, you should be familiar with that drain valve. Once a month I crawl under the truck and drain the seperator into a clean bottle, mason jar works great. Allows the removal of any water and junk from the fuel system. I think the caps take a 32mm socket. If you open the drain first and allow it to drain completely you should not make a mess. I do think the harness is in a bad location but the job is still pretty easy. I buy the Motorcraft filter for less than $50 online, I would never pay someone else $100+ to do the job unless I was incompacitated.
#14
Ford Engineers, WTF?
There is no pressure for the fuel filter mounted on top of the engine next to the engine oil filter(by the way, this is the same location as it was with the 6.0PSD, though the fuel filter is now larger). Be sure and change out the o-ring on the cap and do not over-torque the plastic caps. The frame mounted filter is a bit more difficult but still pretty simple. I am amazed to read that other owners are not first draining the water/filter seperator by using the very convenient lever. So much easier than the plug on the 6.0 equipped trucks. If you have had your 6.4 more than two months, you should be familiar with that drain valve. Once a month I crawl under the truck and drain the seperator into a clean bottle, mason jar works great. Allows the removal of any water and junk from the fuel system. I think the caps take a 32mm socket. If you open the drain first and allow it to drain completely you should not make a mess. I do think the harness is in a bad location but the job is still pretty easy. I buy the Motorcraft filter for less than $50 online, I would never pay someone else $100+ to do the job unless I was incompacitated.
#15
Mine is a 4WD variety, but it is a F-450 pickup which makes the task a bit easier due to the truck being level, not nose down like 250/350s. While the task is not a breeze, from my background of turning wrenches on helicopters, fixed wing carrier aircraft, marine powerplants, elevators and escalators, changing out a fuel filter is not too difficult of a task. Changing out a hot, filthy main gear box transmission radiator on a SH-60B in time for the next go, not that is a headache.