When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Since I am not a well-experienced Ford guy yet, was looking for tips on how to improve the oiling on my .030"-over 410. I am replacing the 360 in my truck (which I got in exchange for some plumbing work I did) which I got w/bad oil pressure. In the build I've got the beefer ARP oil pump shaft, a Melling HV pump, and Clevite bearings. I have learned that this is a major FE weak point, so tips and suggestion encouraged and welcomed!
Since I am not a well-experienced Ford guy yet, was looking for tips on how to improve the oiling on my .030"-over 410. I am replacing the 360 in my truck (which I got in exchange for some plumbing work I did) which I got w/bad oil pressure. In the build I've got the beefer ARP oil pump shaft, a Melling HV pump, and Clevite bearings. I have learned that this is a major FE weak point, so tips and suggestion encouraged and welcomed!
The answer to your question is best given over the phone. To lengthly for me to type.
My apologies about not getting back soon enough-work, kids, and family stuff sometimes keeps me from playing on the computer. Thanks for the advice FFR428 and Maxtor...may do both (depends on if I get Maxtor's phone number on wheither I can do both). The funny part is that the crank had to be turned 20/20, so this situation has been made very clear to me.
My apologies about not getting back soon enough-work, kids, and family stuff sometimes keeps me from playing on the computer. Thanks for the advice FFR428 and Maxtor...may do both (depends on if I get Maxtor's phone number on wheither I can do both). The funny part is that the crank had to be turned 20/20, so this situation has been made very clear to me.
On my phone plan, I have long distance free on weekends. Send me your phone number to my email using the email item under my user id.
A high volume/pressure oil pump is not needed. Need 10 pounds oil pressure for every 1000 rpm. STock pump easily does this with oem fit of engine parts. Correct fit of main, rod bearings, along with new cam bearings and your heavy duty oil drive is a must.
Your bearings may be showing lots of wear due to detonation, a common problem on the FE's. Look for shinny marks on the main caps, where they have been rubbing against the block. Thats why they went to cross bolts, because the main caps were walking around. Need to set your piston to cylinder head quench distance to 0.035-0.045 max. My 410 has no detonation problems with 0.038 quench and runs on regular gas at 9.5:1 compression and 5000 foot altitude.
Change the oil filter adapter to 428 part, has larger oil passages. Also drill out the oil passage from oil pick up tube to oil filter adapter. 7/16 inch diameter is what you want. this diameter will match the oil passage from filter adapter to lifter galley.
You can add oil restrictors to cylinder head oil passage, but I wouldn't restrict much on a street driven engine, the valve springs need that oil flow for proper cooling, which everyones high lift cam is making all the more necessary.
If you are going to turn this engine over 6000 rpm, you need the high volume, not high pressure oil pump, because you should do as the previous post said plus you need to ream out the mismatch on the main bearings. Also have the crankshaft oil holes chamfered and crankshaft polished.
Put old bearings into the block and look at the mismatch. Use a fine tip magic marker and scribe around the bearing oil hole. Remove the bearings and carefully ground out the mismatch, stopping before the mark. You do not want to grind away to much that oil gets under the bearing and lifts it. These mods will let your engine rev to 6000-7000 rpm and keep the crankshaft happy. Rocker arm mods are another story. Keep a maximum of 6000 rpm and your cam lift under .585 for a stock valve train and your FE should live a long life.
I agree on the HV pump if you plan on turning it any kind of RPM. You open the clearances up a touch and the extra oil will be there. I shim the stock spring about .10 to add extra touch of pressure. All my hot rods run .003 clearance on both rods/mains.
I agree on the HV pump if you plan on turning it any kind of RPM. You open the clearances up a touch and the extra oil will be there. I shim the stock spring about .10 to add extra touch of pressure. All my hot rods run .003 clearance on both rods/mains.
Yep,,, Freightrain is right.... .003 clearance on both rods and mains is the magic number for a street/strip engine.
I don't think I'll see over 6K RPMs'...my truck is a '72 F250 Camper Special, not exactly what I want to get screaming down the road. Atleast not while the suspension and such is not fresh and upgraded-I have 2 daughters and my hair will go grey fast enough (I am thankful to still have hair). I am reading and referencing this to the machinist, who is an experienced Ford fan, so I think my motor will not suffer with the oiling weakness this time around.
I don't think I'll see over 6K RPMs'...my truck is a '72 F250 Camper Special, not exactly what I want to get screaming down the road. Atleast not while the suspension and such is not fresh and upgraded-I have 2 daughters and my hair will go grey fast enough (I am thankful to still have hair). I am reading and referencing this to the machinist, who is an experienced Ford fan, so I think my motor will not suffer with the oiling weakness this time around.
I have 3 daughters and my high RPM sat. nights have long passed went back to a RV cam 5000 max on the top end.do the extra step to the oil passage it will keep your old 72 around for the girls to drive.LOL,(still have all my hair just seams my forhead is getting longer.)