Need help with codes
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From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
Need help with codes
I'm getting two codes that I can't figure out what they mean, they are P7A00 and P69C3, they are not on Guzzlers list or in my worthless Haynes. Any help would be appreciated. My truck seems to run fine then the motor starts to buck and the tach starts to jump, then it eventually stalls. Seems like CPS, but I can't find out what the codes mean. When I pull over I shut the key off and wait several seconds and it starts and runs fine again for a few miles then starts to buck again. Help please !!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Parker, CO
Those aren't standard codes. What are you using to scan? I'm betting your scan tool is to blame and isn't compatible with Powerstrokes. It probably see's codes, but can't properly identify them.
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From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
I did asearch and found out that some other ford owners with Hypertechs got the same codes. I retrieved other codes before and solved my problems. Like p1249, p0478,p1211 and p0541. This time since codes are un-findable in any text, manuals,(can't think of a better word for that), I'm in the process of reprogramming back to stock and I'm going to see what happens with factory programm. Maybe if problem arrises again it might be readable. In short I think my Hypertech is taking a dump. Might be a good excuse for a DP. I still think the bucking is the CPS. I'm going to take truck for a ride, and see what happens. Thanks Pocket, I'll be back with more info shortly. Does that make any sense at all ?
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From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
Well, Installed the factory program, and still have the same problem. Except no strange codes. The other day my truck acted up and it felt like I wasn't getting fuel. I replaced the fuel filters and the problem went away, until today. I think my fuel pump is weak and doesn't like to run at high RPMs because fuel demand is to high. Only problem is I don't have a pressure gage to check pump pressure. The other day my daughter turned the key when the lid was off of the filter housing and it filled real slow. I would imagine it should have filled and overflowed real fast, is that assumtion correct ?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Depends on your definition of slow and fast. Try opening the fuel bowl drain and turning the key on. If you don't have a real strong stream pouring out then you may have low pump pressure.
Can you describe you're problems more? When the tach jumps, is the engine rpm moving or is it just the gauge? How much does it move, and in which direction (higher or lower)? As you mentioned, bucking is one of the typical CPS signs. You shouldn't be able to pull any codes after setting things back to stock until the truck acts up again.
Maybe a test drive will cause it to act up so you can check codes again. At least the CPS is cheap now if you decide to try a swap.
Can you describe you're problems more? When the tach jumps, is the engine rpm moving or is it just the gauge? How much does it move, and in which direction (higher or lower)? As you mentioned, bucking is one of the typical CPS signs. You shouldn't be able to pull any codes after setting things back to stock until the truck acts up again.
Maybe a test drive will cause it to act up so you can check codes again. At least the CPS is cheap now if you decide to try a swap.
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Posting Guru
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From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
Depends on your definition of slow and fast. Try opening the fuel bowl drain and turning the key on. If you don't have a real strong stream pouring out then you may have low pump pressure.
Can you describe you're problems more? When the tach jumps, is the engine rpm moving or is it just the gauge? How much does it move, and in which direction (higher or lower)? As you mentioned, bucking is one of the typical CPS signs. You shouldn't be able to pull any codes after setting things back to stock until the truck acts up again.
Maybe a test drive will cause it to act up so you can check codes again. At least the CPS is cheap now if you decide to try a swap.
Can you describe you're problems more? When the tach jumps, is the engine rpm moving or is it just the gauge? How much does it move, and in which direction (higher or lower)? As you mentioned, bucking is one of the typical CPS signs. You shouldn't be able to pull any codes after setting things back to stock until the truck acts up again.
Maybe a test drive will cause it to act up so you can check codes again. At least the CPS is cheap now if you decide to try a swap.
The RPMs dropped when the truck bucked, like I was running out of fuel. I reset the codes and took it for a ride, also put PCM back to stock setting, once the RPMs increased, as did fuel demand, the truck began to buck again. After test drive there are no codes, it feels more like a fuel problem. The RPMs/tach go up and down with engine speed/bucking.
Last edited by rugermack; Jun 14, 2008 at 08:30 PM. Reason: clarification
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From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
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From: Rochdale MA
By any chane have you run out of or run low on fuel lately? There is a screen on the end of your pickup tube that acts as a "pre filter" from time it will get clogged up. Your pump may be ok and just having a hard time pulling the fuel through the screen. Try taking compressed air and blowing it back into the tank, bleed the system and see what happens.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
By any chane have you run out of or run low on fuel lately? There is a screen on the end of your pickup tube that acts as a "pre filter" from time it will get clogged up. Your pump may be ok and just having a hard time pulling the fuel through the screen. Try taking compressed air and blowing it back into the tank, bleed the system and see what happens.
Post Fiend
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From: Texas
Ten seconds for 1/4 tank on the fuel bowl does sound slow. I'll check mine tomorrow if I get a chance for comparison purposes. How long ago did you shim the FPR and how much? Can you reproduce the problem sitting in the driveway in neutral?
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From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
It only seems to do it under load, I didn't try it in the driveway. I can go a mile or two before it starts. I think the shim was about .030". I did what was recommended on this site at the time.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Parker, CO
Fuel bowl should fill MUCH faster than that. I once hot wired the fuel pump to drain out the remaining fuel in the tank, and filled a 6 gallon gas can in no time.
Of course, now my fuel pump is dying (yes guys, I still have the new pump sitting in the box, and I have tomorrow scheduled to replace it). My engine sputters when the fuel pump cuts out for a second or two. Having a fuel pressure gauge hooked up will tell you in a second if that is in fact the problem.
Of course, now my fuel pump is dying (yes guys, I still have the new pump sitting in the box, and I have tomorrow scheduled to replace it). My engine sputters when the fuel pump cuts out for a second or two. Having a fuel pressure gauge hooked up will tell you in a second if that is in fact the problem.
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From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
The verdict is in, My truck had two problems, 1 fuel pump was on its way out- low pressure, 2 CPS was on its way out at the same time. Once I replaced the pump the truck idled better than it has been lately-last two weeks. I guess it was just time for the CPS also. Truck runs real well now. Thanks for everyones help, sometimes discussing a problem can make it clearer. Next job - painting the new ATS fender flares.
