Hey guy's, every now and then my steering feels tight and then breaks free. After a sharp corner it will feel like it wants to pull one way, if I pull it the other way it will break free and run true. I had the front end checked and they said everthing was tight and new, just needed brakes. I did the brakes and no change. Pritty sure they didn't do anything with the steering box or pump. Anyone had a similiar problem?

 

OK guy's I just replaced my steering box and power steering pump for no reason. Steering still doesn't want to come back on its own and feels really tight. Any suggestions?

 

The hoses may look good on the outside but inside they may be colapsed and causing a fluid restriction.

Have you tested the pressure from the pump and at the hoses?


Rick.

 

Thanks Rick
This is really starting to tick me off, I spent a lot of time that I don't have replaceing parts. I put on a new return line because of damage removing the old but did not replcae the high pressure line yet. Is that a relief valve in mid stream on the high pressure line? Just wondering if that could be the culprit.
I am not to upset about the parts, the truck is staying with me. I just don't have time to play this guessing game. I have three other vehicles to restore, the truck is my driver. LOL

 

Nope not the hoses. Another 50 bucks but I did find out that the hose that was on it was an aftermarket universal. Happy to change it anyway. Still feels like a ball joint to me, I guess I will have to try a third shop for a forth opinion. Nobody out there has ever come across this before?

 

Sounds to me like something is bent perhaps something the garage overlooked try getting someone to turn the steering all the way back and fourth while you get under and check it out it also could be the steering column shaft u joint binding up check it for play and check while someone is turning the wheel.

good luck

 

Thanks Walter, but nope not the steering column. It's going to the third shop monday, wish me luck.
Nice truck by the way, I checked out your pics. What size are your tires? Did you lift it.

 

Hmm, now that you mention it, my 79 had that a bunch of years ago... I replaced the kingpin on the offending side to cure it, but your 95 will be ball-joints....

 

No problem hope the next shop finds the problem I can imagine it's costing a couple hundred bucks or more each time you bring it in and that sucks.

Thanks for the complement tire size is 285 75 16,s no lift just air bags front and back with an extra leaf in the back in the pics I only have 5psi in them .

Good luck
WS

 

I replaced a U joint today and then lifted the front end to take another look. My son turned the wheel from side to side and I watched. The only thing that looks like it has play is the new Ford steering box I just put in. I will get a second opinion before I go to the dealer that I purchased it from. I really hope it's not the box, it was a pain to get out, but I already thought it was the box before, remember.

 

Do you have manual locking hubs or auto,s? did anyone have a look at your hubs?

 

yes I have manual, I did the brakes, torqued properly, used Lucas grease, I think I noticed (just thinking back) that with the wheels turned if I spin them by hand they get tight, U joints seem smooth spinning straight.

 

If I need to replace the front end U joints, is that a big deal? I've never removed the axel shafts from the front dif before. Any special tools needed?

 

I changed some on a 91 I had several years ago I remember it was a PITA If I remember correctly one side is not bad to do but the other side was hard the only special tools I had were an air chisle and a set of torches you will know what the air chisle is for when you remove the spindls LOL

If you go to the 95 F150 forum and ask the same question bet you would get some good info.

Good luck

 

Check your brakes at all four corners, and look for collapsed lines there too.

I went through a brake dragging scenario with a ranger recently, and found the right front brake was grabbing hard.

I could tell right away, because the wheel got super hot and it pulled towards it.

In my case, I had rust blocking the caliper piston's movement. It can also be caused by brake slides binding, or a pad hanging up for some reason, or just as above - a collapsed brake line. Brake lines (the rubber ones) can be messed up by letting a brake caliper hang by the line while replacing pads - so that is not beyond the bounds of reason.

I found that combinations of left or right turns and braking could bring on the effect.

What you can do is be sure you have a scissors jack with you and when it happens stop immediately!

Feel the rims for heat, and if one wheel is hotter than the others jack the wheel just clear of the ground and see if it turns freely compared to one or more of the others.

If it drags, you've at least got a target to look at. The advantage of this is that you're not spending money on parts yet - you're looking for a cause. But you have to look it over while it is still doing whatever it is doing.