When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just wonder, how much amperage do you need at 120VAC to get the same amount of heat generated by a propane flame?
I fully understand the ammonia-stack type of cooling system.
I'll be sure to check the heating element when I get up there for Labor Day... for all I know, the darn thing is crusted up and useless.
It's a Norcold. Here's the control board. The diode in question was inline with the 12VDC, apparently to keep a reversed battery from burning out the board. To get it working, I just used a test-clip to bypass the diode, but I repaired it the "right way" anyway, just in case. OK, totally off-topic.
I just wonder, how much amperage do you need at 120VAC to get the same amount of heat generated by a propane flame?
I had an idea, but not the exact so a quick search and found this at the Domitec sight. If you select your model it will tell you the specifics. Most look to be in the 75-100 Ohm range (Measuring resistance across the heating element) This tells you if the element is intact...no definition o fth eamperage (Maybe I will check mine tonight)
If your refer has not been used for some time it seems as though mine, at least, doesn't get up to speed after setting for a period of time. Also be sure you are operating it as level as possible. The front to back level is much more important than the side to side. If operated too far out of level your refer will "block up". Consult your manual on how to fix this little problem but it involves removing the refer. As said before it is really important to allow adaquat air circulation around the cooling fins. Some of the newer units are auto temp, I don't think I'd like that very much.
But again it takes maybe up to a day for the temp to level out to where you want it in an absorption refer. I hope you've got it working.
Mine was really sucking at getting the fridge to temp and keeping it there on Gas. Took it in for the recall/ add a bunch of sheilds on it. Talked to the tech there. he said if it was cooling on electric but not on gas it probably just need to be cleaned out. I used a leaf blower to blast all the debris and dirt out of the back, there was more in there than what I thought would be. Cleaned up the burner as well. Now it sits really nice just above freezing on Gas, never check electric afterwards. Not sure of the accuracy of the temp gauge but it was at 34 degrees and the freezer was actually frozen.
I am going to add blowing out the back of the fridge to my spring and fall maintanance. I also have a small tooth brush to clean the burner if needed as well.
Be careful of that! There's a twisted metal piece that sits in the gas flame chimney you could unseat that is intended to slow heat rising through it. If it gets out of position, good luck even finding it...
"99% of the appliances in RV's are built like a Coleman lantern..."
I agree to that, I kept it about two feet away. Also the leaf blower we have is a little electric black and decker. Not much compared to the high powered gas models.
Just looked at ours and the tag says up is colder and down is warmer. We have ours all the way up and it keeps things very cold. Just be sure nothing touching fins as it will freeze them.
All of the above apply plus you can get an extension for the thermistor that plugs into the module board and also can switch your board to a Dinosaur board that is adjustable. Finally the element draws about 2-3 amps depending on the model of fridge. If you want to know exactly get your meter out and connect it in series with one leg of the element but be careful as that is 120 VAC and you can get a shock. Element size is restricted due to campground limitations on available power, but Dometic had their fires when they upped the amp draw and the element temperature increases causing the cooling coil welds to weaken and spring leaks.
Fridges installed in slides have a much harder time cooling as the air flow over the cooling coil has to make a 90 degree turn at the top of the fridge and often the space is very tight so flow is restricted.
I bought a small fan to plug into the fridge lite inside the box that hangs on the fins to distribute the air...
then a nice 4 fan assembly for the top of my outside vents since they are on a slide...
pulls the air thru nicely.... and dropped the temp a bunch...
BUT the new rv was ordered with a residential as I got tired of the "is it cold enough" from the wife
I bought a small fan to plug into the fridge lite inside the box that hangs on the fins to distribute the air...
then a nice 4 fan assembly for the top of my outside vents since they are on a slide...
pulls the air thru nicely.... and dropped the temp a bunch...
BUT the new rv was ordered with a residential as I got tired of the "is it cold enough" from the wife
What you will be seeing I think is an increasing number of units with residential fridges, particularly in larger more expensive models. The reality is most folks never use their fridge on gas when camping and all it takes when you go down the road in a small inverter capable of powering the compressor in a residential model. Much greater reliability and, even with the inverter, still much cheaper than the standard RV fridge when you add up the propane lines and components.
For a customer I had last year whose white wine was never cold enough I wired in a small fan like you find on a desktop computer (Northern Tool) on a switch they turned on at the start of the camping season and turned off at the end. No complaints now and I guess you can fall asleep to the hum of the fan.
Steve
Last edited by RV_Tech; Aug 15, 2013 at 05:26 PM.
Reason: addition