79 F150 Wont Start
I thought it might be the ignition module(brain box)... But Im not for sure...
I was told it will turn over, and when it was parked it was running good...I havent got to look at the truck myself yet, but before driving 2hrs. I thought I would try to find the possible problems...
Thanks
Josh
Thanks To:
4x4 Bart
Width at front fenders approx. 79.1 inches.
If your wheels and tires are wider than fenders you must add this to it.
The length (long bed truck) is approx. 211 inches from front bumper to tailgate plus add for whatever rear bumper you have.
Do not buy the truck till the engine runs.
Private sellers can be bigger liars than car dealers, and you're only going by the info the seller told you.
The truck's engine might be history.
For one thing, 351M/400 engines of this vintage are very prone to cracking cylinder heads.
Ask yourself this: If in fact the seller is telling the truth, why didn't he drive it for over a year?
It's has to be something more problematic than a ignition module, one a those can be bought for 40 bucks, and autoparts stores will test an old one for free.
Ignition modules usually don't fail immediatly, they go thru a sequence failure.
First the module overheats, then the engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts. This process is then repeated till the module fails altogether.
This all takes several weeks, so at the first sign of trouble, the owner prolly had it checked out.
Since the engine doesn't run, the truck can't be driven, so what else might be wrong??
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Do not buy the truck till the engine runs.
Private sellers can be bigger liars than car dealers, and you're only going by the info the seller told you.
The truck's engine might be history.
For one thing, 351M/400 engines of this vintage are very prone to cracking cylinder heads.
Ask yourself this: If in fact the seller is telling the truth, why didn't he drive it for over a year?
It's has to be something more problematic than a ignition module, one a those can be bought for 40 bucks, and autoparts stores will test an old one for free.
Ignition modules usually don't fail immediatly, they go thru a sequence failure.
First the module overheats, then the engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts. This process is then repeated till the module fails altogether.
This all takes several weeks, so at the first sign of trouble, the owner prolly had it checked out.
Since the engine doesn't run, the truck can't be driven, so what else might be wrong??

He used it to pull a trailer around a farm, and it was parked for the winter. The 400 is only supposed to have 77k miles, and a new trans with only 500 miles, and it has dual exhaust. I can purchase it for $350..
He said he thought it might be the fuel pump, so he replaced it, but it still will not start.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The purchase price is right, but what will it cost to fix it?
Ask to see receipts for the rebuilt trans, and any other work.
Did the seller buy it new? If not...how does he know it only has 77,000 miles?
Odometers on these trucks only read to 99,999.9 miles, not 999,999.9 miles.
So it could have 177,000 miles, or?
Have you throughly inspected the truck for rust? Is salt used on the roads in KY?
btw: No Ford truck of any vintage had dual exhausts.
Am I trying to discourage you? Not really...I've owned over 326 cars and trucks since 1956, so I know what to look for, and what questions to ask sellers.
And private sellers, as previously mentioned can lie like a rug!
The purchase price is right, but what will it cost to fix it?
Ask to see receipts for the rebuilt trans, and any other work.
Did the seller buy it new? If not...how does he know it only has 77,000 miles?
Odometers on these trucks only read to 99,999.9 miles, not 999,999.9 miles.
So it could have 177,000 miles, or?
Have you throughly inspected the truck for rust? Is salt used on the roads in KY?
btw: No Ford truck of any vintage had dual exhausts.
Am I trying to discourage you? Not really...I've owned over 326 cars and trucks since 1956, so I know what to look for, and what questions to ask sellers.
And private sellers, as previously mentioned can lie like a rug!
I just graduated high school a couple of weeks ago, and I need a truck to drive to work. Im on a $500 budget, so I need something cheap and quick.. I havent got to inspect it yet, because its 2hrs away.
I have found another truck which is a 93 F150 2wd 5.0 with 275,000 miles on it for $500..
ND is correct in his advice. However these trucks are very easy to fix and cheap and if your not mechanical are great place to learn.
Engines only require 3 things to operate, air/fuel mix, spark, and compression. All of which can be checked with about $20 worth of tools at the cheapest. $40 at most.
1: Crank the engine to the count of about 5 revolutions. Do not touch the gas pedal at this point.
2: Air/fuel: open the choke plate and move the throttle lever on the carb while looking down the bore of the carb and look for a squirt of gas into the bore it is usually close to the top. If no squirt, no fuel.
3: Compression: Try turning the motor by hand by gripping belts and or pulleys. If you can turn it by hand than the engine is wore out and at that point walk away and post address and tele of seller here. You can also remove a couple of spark plugs and gently plug the hole with the tip of your finger, have some crank the engine two revs and your finger should quickly forced out of the hole with the sound of rushing air. Or you could run a compression test. I would not buy if cylinders are under 120 psi.
4: Spark: With a test light test the ignition module and coil for power, if yes proceed. Buy a cheap spark tester from auto supply and check for spark at the sparkplug end of a wire, if no spark test again at the cap end of the of the coil wire. If no spark than test the ignition module by removing the negative wire on the coil and putting a testlight between the neg wire and neg coil post, turn the key on and the light should come on at this point, now crank the engine again and the light should flicker if it stays solid than either the module is shot or a bad connection in the ignition wiring.
If all of this tests O.K. than one or more of these is so far out of adjustment it wont kick.
If you do not purchase this truck than post the seller info here as someone else may be interested.
I would not purchase the 93 F150 if you are on a tight budget. A vehicle of that age may have a strong drive train but the electronics of that vehicle can drive you right into bankruptcy if you are not mechanical or have the tools. But you may want to post the sellers info in the appropriate forums.
Good luck!!
Send me a PM of your tele# so you can get my tele if you have Q's while standing at the truck.

He's got a case of "Buck Fever" if you ask me.
Not running...what will the costs be to get it running, and then what else will be bad?
At least the '93 runs...
He says he's on a tight budget.

He's got a case of "Buck Fever" if you ask me.
Not running...what will the costs be to get it running, and then what else will be bad?
At least the '93 runs...
He says he's on a tight budget.





