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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

linear actuator wiring?

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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 12:49 PM
  #1  
Gary E's Avatar
Gary E
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linear actuator wiring?

I am getting ready to have the wiring harness made. I have a gentleman that will rework my donor (88 mark vii)wiring harness for a very reasonable fee. But I have a few questions?

I am planning on a full tilt front end, and possibly using two linear actuators, one on each side. how many relays do I need for this? 1, 2, or 4? Do they just have two wires going to them? do they work just like a power window as far as wiring goes.

Also do the linear actuators stay where they are? Will I be able to use them hold the whole front tilt down or will I still need some sort of latch?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 03:10 PM
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Truxx1956
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Hey Gary, most of the actuatos I've seen have 2 wires from them, and to reverse or forward them you just change the polarity. As far as the units staying, they are just an acme threaded screw drive and they stay wherever you stop them. I believe I'd still use some sort of latch, and not trust just them, but when you open your frontend up, they will stay at whatever place you stop them.

I'm not sure about how many relays you'll need, I'd think just one one each actuator?



Good luck
 
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 09:38 PM
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Gary
I have hydraulic actuators on my `56 and with them you do not need a latch. you can close the hood down as hard as you want and it will stay there. I would think the electric actuators would work the same. No latch needed.
I see your in Sacramento, would like to see your rig when finished.
Good luck and enjoy your dream truck.
Gary
 
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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With the Firgelli actuators, you don't need relays. The two wires coming from the actuator are power and ground. As previously mentioned, they raise and lower by reversing polatity. All you need is a three position switch, on-off-on, with ground flip flopped on one side.

The actuators are equipped with stops when they are fully extended or fully retracted and will stop by themselves whe open all the way. You will probably have to learn where to stop in on the way down.

The actuator is plenty strong to hold the hood without a latch in either th eup or down position. But, you should probably think of a way to reash up under and quick disconnect one end of the actuator, and provide for a back up cable to rest the hood on when open - just in case your battery goes dead and it's under the hood.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2008 | 12:00 PM
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Thanks guys, and Gusso I will be coming over and harassing you soon, I just have to do the wiring harness and I think the next step is setting up the doghouse.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 12:51 AM
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gusso
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Gary

Just looked at your gallery. Your doing a great job on your `56. Fantastic work
and your doing everything right. You have earned the right to be very proud
and looks like you will be on the road very soon. Good luck.

Gary
 
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