There are a few instances where the 9 3/8 is used in trucks but mainly you will see it in big cars like the Lincoln's, Gallaxy's, and Merc's. The 76 Continental I stole my 460 from had the same rear. I also remember when I picked up my free 9 3/8 third memeber, told it was a 9, it came out of a 60 something Gallaxy. I wasn't poo pooing it when I said "who cares if it has a big Ford rear diff" that was a casual observation.

 

No worries. I wonder what the difference is in overall width with the car rear ends. I wonder if the spring perches are the in the same location as the trucks.
My '72 short bed came stock with a 9 3/8", 3.50L, 31 spline chunk in it. Some of the 31 spline diffs have the smaller axle bearings but the 9 3/8" truck diff housing has no taper down the axle tubes; the axle bearings are huge (larger than regular 9", 31 spline axle bearings).

 

AIRHARLEY: Not to hijack this thread, but ... so that's what you do, remove the seam sealer and weld up the seams. What's the best way to remove the sealer and will it be a big (expensive) deal to have my welder fill that in for me? (I'm not a welder so I have no clue how much work is involved)
Thanks!

 

Bobby most cars had a coil spring suspension after 70 or so. Prior to that each one had a slightly different perch width. I know there a bunch of sites that have the info cataloged. I am not sure if they all reference the same one so some info can be wrong.

Desertwest well I can say that my seam sealer is old and crumbly/pulls off easily. I plan on removing as much as I can with a pick then wire brushing it off. As for paying to have it done, I am not sure what they charge per hour or if they will run into thin areas of sheet metal. Thin sheet metal means that there will be spots that the weld melts through and they have to repair it. Also they will probalby be a lot more **** about prepping the area then I will be.

The other thing to remember with welding the seams is that you won't be able to replace a panel as easily if you need to down the road.

K, done hijacking and going back to the originally posted stuff.

 

It just needs a little TLC and a lot of welding and sanding

 

Hey 66,

Think of it this way...if you were being completely economically minded, you should have bought a early 90's model something with a 4-banger, fuel injection and all that. You chose otherwise and have found us .

Frequent this site, buy a factory service manual, locate all the you-pull-it yards in your area, and tell yourself that restoration, even of a rolling variety, is a marathon, not a sprint. Every chuck of rust you cut away and slather back with bondo will feel great!

Tough call on the drive train...I am an all-original type of guy. I like Chevies (please, no hate mail), but I think Ford's work better in Ford's and vice versa. If you want a '64 Ford 292, I have an extra one that needs rebuilding. I can't bring myself to take it to scrap. Maybe it is just me, but I love the old y-blocks.

 

thanks for reply fellas. i have to make a choice. saw a 71 that i may be interested in. i may go look at the truck and based on condition. might opt to pic up the 71 and maybe sell the 66. i want an old truck. have one. wanna keep one. i am just not full of cash, have a kid, girl on the way in next month or so, still didnt buy house. trying to keep my old lady home with the kids... etc. so i know it will never be an over night success story for my truck. i just think if the body is too ruff to fix, without sourcing out, a new bed, cab, fenders, hood. meanwhile having the rotted undercarrage. maybe grab the 71 and go from there. id like to keep the 66. just dont wanna go spend money to tune up the engine that may be dead or shall i say dying. 66 has good points and bad. 71 im sure will have the same.
BUT the 71 is all ford. 302 4 speed.