292 almost ready to fire
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292 almost ready to fire
I read somewhere on this sight how one adjusts the valve clearances on a Y-block. Now that I'm ready to make the initial adjustments, I can't find the thread. Going to FAQ's and typing in "292 Valve adjustments" gets no matches. There's a certain sequence of setting #1 TDC and adjusting certain cylinders and so forth. If one of the site's guru's could pass on this info, I could press on. Also, can anyone tell me if someone on this site has reproduction engine manuals for this 1962 292? I found elsewhere on the internet specs for a 1956 292. Are all the torque specs the same for 292 regardless of year? Until I can get a manual I'm trying to gather whatever info I can on these Y-blocks. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
Scott
Scott
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From: Davenport, IA
Short on time, but there is a thread started by luvsccr that probably has the valve lash settings - has PLEASE at the ehd of the title. The torque specs are'nt the same throught the years and there is no 62 truck manual only an update for the 61 manual. Gety the 61 manual reprint and the 62 update booklet and your set.
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From: Davenport, IA
More time now. Well, same it was in luvsccr's thread, just the wrong one. And it was my post even. Quoted below:
" Well you could
(I've always wanted to post that 
) I don't know if the 272 has the same valve lash as the 292 which is what I state below! Well if you mean preliminary lash (COLD): Gap at .19 using a step feeler gauge is best. At TDC adjust Exhaust #1,4,5 Intake #1,2,7. Rotate crank 180 and adjust Ex 6,8 and In 4,5. Rotate crank 270 and adjust Ex 2,3,7 and In 3,6,8. If you mean final lash (HOT): Use the step feeler gauge while the motor is warmed up and running at .18 gap. And remember to burn your arm at least once."
Again the torque specs aren't necessarily the same year to year. Figure little design changes over 10 yrs. The one that sticks out in my mind are the mains caps.
Finally, the reprint Ford truck manual is a bit pricey, but is well worth it. My has been HEAVILY used. I do not have vendor info though - sorry.
" Well you could
(I've always wanted to post that ) I don't know if the 272 has the same valve lash as the 292 which is what I state below! Well if you mean preliminary lash (COLD): Gap at .19 using a step feeler gauge is best. At TDC adjust Exhaust #1,4,5 Intake #1,2,7. Rotate crank 180 and adjust Ex 6,8 and In 4,5. Rotate crank 270 and adjust Ex 2,3,7 and In 3,6,8. If you mean final lash (HOT): Use the step feeler gauge while the motor is warmed up and running at .18 gap. And remember to burn your arm at least once."Again the torque specs aren't necessarily the same year to year. Figure little design changes over 10 yrs. The one that sticks out in my mind are the mains caps.
Finally, the reprint Ford truck manual is a bit pricey, but is well worth it. My has been HEAVILY used. I do not have vendor info though - sorry.
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Thanks Sam,
That's the exact thread I was looking for. I did find someone on eBay with a reprint of the 61 truck manual but he mentions nothing about 62 or 63 suppliments. I ordered it anyway. Like someone said in another thread, not much difference over the three years. I'll adjust my valves, prime the oil system, and hopefully she fires on all cylinders. Thanks again for the sequence.
Scott
That's the exact thread I was looking for. I did find someone on eBay with a reprint of the 61 truck manual but he mentions nothing about 62 or 63 suppliments. I ordered it anyway. Like someone said in another thread, not much difference over the three years. I'll adjust my valves, prime the oil system, and hopefully she fires on all cylinders. Thanks again for the sequence.
Scott
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From: Davenport, IA
I picked my used 63 supplement up off e-bay for about 5 bucks total - not in great condition, but I wasn't too worried about it.
And don't forget to burn yourself on the hot manifold once when doing the hot lash. Sometimes I like to get myself twice for accuracy.
And don't forget to burn yourself on the hot manifold once when doing the hot lash. Sometimes I like to get myself twice for accuracy.
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More time now. Well, same it was in luvsccr's thread, just the wrong one. And it was my post even. Quoted below:
" Well you could (I've always wanted to post that ) I don't know if the 272 has the same valve lash as the 292 which is what I state below! Well if you mean preliminary lash (COLD): Gap at .19 using a step feeler gauge is best. At TDC adjust Exhaust #1,4,5 Intake #1,2,7. Rotate crank 180 and adjust Ex 6,8 and In 4,5. Rotate crank 270 and adjust Ex 2,3,7 and In 3,6,8. If you mean final lash (HOT): Use the step feeler gauge while the motor is warmed up and running at .18 gap. And remember to burn your arm at least once."
Again the torque specs aren't necessarily the same year to year. Figure little design changes over 10 yrs. The one that sticks out in my mind are the mains caps.
Finally, the reprint Ford truck manual is a bit pricey, but is well worth it. My has been HEAVILY used. I do not have vendor info though - sorry.
" Well you could
(I've always wanted to post that ) I don't know if the 272 has the same valve lash as the 292 which is what I state below! Well if you mean preliminary lash (COLD): Gap at .19 using a step feeler gauge is best. At TDC adjust Exhaust #1,4,5 Intake #1,2,7. Rotate crank 180 and adjust Ex 6,8 and In 4,5. Rotate crank 270 and adjust Ex 2,3,7 and In 3,6,8. If you mean final lash (HOT): Use the step feeler gauge while the motor is warmed up and running at .18 gap. And remember to burn your arm at least once."Again the torque specs aren't necessarily the same year to year. Figure little design changes over 10 yrs. The one that sticks out in my mind are the mains caps.
Finally, the reprint Ford truck manual is a bit pricey, but is well worth it. My has been HEAVILY used. I do not have vendor info though - sorry.
Got all the way to the 270 and couldn't adjust #3 intake. It was still compressed. So I cranked the engine until #3 was at TDC on compresion stroke and adjusted both valves. When I checked some of the other valves which I had previously adjusted, they were above the .019 I had just set them at. My question is this, with all the valves adjusted per the sequence in the manual, is there any other point in the cams rotation when the clearances would be above the .019 you just set? I was able to find three or four other valves loose that when I checked the clearance, they were above .019. Unless my thinking is off (don't ask my wife about that), I thought the .019 would be the max clearance at any other point on the cam except the lobe. Then again, I've never worked an engine with solid lifters. Right now, the max clearance on any loose valve is .019. Finding 270 with everything installed was a chore. Just trying to make sense of this whole thing. Thanks.
Scott
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