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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 06:45 PM
  #31  
bobbytnm's Avatar
bobbytnm
Roast em' if you got 'em
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
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Lets see here, mods? what have I done? here's a short list;
1949 Ford F1

CHASSIS:
Frame manufacturer: 1949 Ford,
Modifications: 1972 Caddy trans x-member, boxed front by me, rear x-members by me, engine mounts by me, tranny mount by me
Rear-end/Ratio: 1960 9” Ford, 4.11??
Rear suspension: stock
Rear brakes: 1960 Ford drum with 1969 self adjusters
Front suspension: stock with several leaves removed
Front brakes: ECI disc conversion, 79 F-150 rotors and inner bearings, 72 Caddy calipers, 74 Monte Carlo outer bearings, 69 Buick rubber brake hoses
Master cylinder: 1981 Caddy with late 1990’s Ford Focus power booster, Jegs line lock solenoid, 1972 Buick proportioning valve, steel lines by me
Steering: 1979 Toyota 4x4 PS box, GM Saginaw pump, custom made hoses by me, intermediate steering shaft , “U” joints, drag link, and pitman arm by me
Front wheel make, size: 15” Cragar SS Mags
Front tire make, size: ugh--bias plies
Rear wheel make, size: 15” Cragar SS Mags
Rear tire make, size: ugh--bias plies
Fuel tank: 1985 Chevy Blazer, 31 gallon w/1988 fuel sender and mounting straps, marine flush mount fuel filler neck in right rear fender

ENGINE:
Year and make: 1972 Cadillac
Displacement: 500ci
Camshaft: stock
Compression ratio: 8.5:1
Heads: stock
Horsepower: 365 @ 4400rpm (according to factory publications)
Torque: 535ft.lbs @ 3000 (according to factory publications)
Manifold/Induction: stock—for now
Ignition: 1975 Caddy HEI
Headers/Mufflers: stock exhaust manifolds
Air cleaner: 1954 Caddy dual scoop housing
Valve Covers: custom, by me – combination 1972 and 1952
Oil Pan: 1980 Caddy Eldo 368ci rear sump pan and pick up tube
Radiator: 1976 Dodge ¾ ton truck 4 core, fabricated my own radiator/front clip support

TRANSMISSION:
Year and make: 1972 Caddy TH400
Shifter: B&M Megastar truck shifter
Driveshaft: custom made to my specs by local shop

BODY:
Body style/Material: Stock F1, steel
Body manufacturer: Ford
Body mods: 1965 Mercury chrome fender spears added to doors, 1963 Ford XL500 emblems from a 1963 Galaxy glove box door added to hood sides, 1946 Chrysler Town and Country tail light housings with blue dots fitted to rear fenders
Bed: 2005 GMC bed front panel and floor on custom made sub structure, custom rear sill by me, custom tailgate by me, custom tailgate latches by me, battery access door in bed floor, tailgate straps by me
Horns: Early 80’s Cadillac
Bodywork: yes it needs it
Paint: not yet, currently several shades of green with red primer showing through, blue front fenders, primer hood, and spots of black here and there…agh
Wiring: EZ Wiring 21 circuit harness

INTERIOR:
Dashboard: 1965 Pontiac rear seat speaker grill adapted to my dash speaker opening.
Gauges: 1990 GM Van, gauges fitted into my stock housing with custom made bezels by me
Steering Wheel: 1972 Caddy
Brake Pedal assy: Custom hanging pedal assy by me
Steering column: 1972 Caddy tilt & telescoping
Seats: 1995 GMC Suburban 6 way power w/lumbar-headrests removed
Material/Color: leather, tan
Carpet: non-existent


I'm currently working on building a MegaSquirt EFI controller and installing the components for port fuel inkjection

Bobby
 
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 07:57 PM
  #32  
Cambiocorsa's Avatar
Cambiocorsa
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 37
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From: University of New Mexico
Originally Posted by KRDiesel
I have the same setup on my motor home, Do you still have the smog stuff on?
My truck is one of those rare '87 exempt vehicles. It came catless, but it had a smog pump. I pulled all the smog pump stuff when I installed the carb, and with the new carburetor I capped a TON of vacuum lines that were no longer necessary. Everything is blocked off. I kept the EGR, but I capped its connections off today to see if it was the problem, and the truck is running better. I am going through a big trial and error atm.

Carb is getting plenty of fuel. I keep trying to get the mixture right, as it smells heavily of gas, and there is a misty vapor about the carb. My current notion is that it is overfueling and flooding the engine which makes it die after idling for a short while.

EDIT: Found the problem.... carb must have been sitting in my friends closet for awhile. I suspect the floats were way off and the needles clogged... the carb was DUMPING fuel into the engine. Which explains the gas vapor/smoke and the intake manifold OVERFLOWING with gas. I'm making him buy a rebuild kit for it out of his pocket.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 08:50 PM
  #33  
RDJ184's Avatar
RDJ184
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,971
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From: EDGEWOOD
Originally Posted by Cambiocorsa
My truck is one of those rare '87 exempt vehicles. It came catless, but it had a smog pump. I pulled all the smog pump stuff when I installed the carb, and with the new carburetor I capped a TON of vacuum lines that were no longer necessary. Everything is blocked off. I kept the EGR, but I capped its connections off today to see if it was the problem, and the truck is running better. I am going through a big trial and error atm.

Carb is getting plenty of fuel. I keep trying to get the mixture right, as it smells heavily of gas, and there is a misty vapor about the carb. My current notion is that it is overfueling and flooding the engine which makes it die after idling for a short while.

EDIT: Found the problem.... carb must have been sitting in my friends closet for awhile. I suspect the floats were way off and the needles clogged... the carb was DUMPING fuel into the engine. Which explains the gas vapor/smoke and the intake manifold OVERFLOWING with gas. I'm making him buy a rebuild kit for it out of his pocket.
Hey boss you are trying to adapt something that is not supposed to be there show up at the G2G there will be knowlege there to boot show some faith in us old fart
 
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 10:48 AM
  #34  
KRDiesel's Avatar
KRDiesel
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,599
Likes: 2
From: Farmington NM
Do you have brass or plastic floats? the plastic ones will go bad over time and sink. Also, the vacume advance goes through a 3 way valve that is conected to allot of other systems, bypass the valve and run the advance straight from the carb.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 02:34 PM
  #35  
Cambiocorsa's Avatar
Cambiocorsa
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: University of New Mexico
It has the metal floats. I think (hope) that it was just the dirt inside it that was causing it to constantly pump fuel into the engine. I can't think of any other reason than dirt or incorrect float level...
 
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