Timing light lesson
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Timing light lesson
I posted not too long ago about installing a new injection pump on my 86 6.9. I got it running thanks to the help I got from everybody. Now I need more help. The timing is still off a little, I have a diesel timing light but when I use it my marks on the damper do not line up with the plate on the engine. When I move the pump to get the marks closer the engine gets out of time and will not run. I know I am missing something I just don't know what it is. Hoping someone with more experiance could help me along.
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the outer ring on the balancer will crawl on the rubber damper over time and cause the marks to be out of alignment with the crank
mine has this issue also so the only options are trial and error timing or buy a new balancer
mine has this issue also so the only options are trial and error timing or buy a new balancer
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Las vegas
Basicly if the balancer hasn't spun then you could changet the advance on the light untill it lines up wich will tell you where your timing is.
On a side note If the outer ring has spun would the engine vibratle realy badly?
We have an old 7.3 at work that the timing is clearly retarted but so is the guy workimg on it after two day I finally decided to tell him what was wrong with it. But he wouldn't lesson so today he finaly got the tac and time to work and it says its 16* advanced. I said thats why when i told you how to time it I did not mention any thing about a timing llight. But if he cant get a trouble code out of something he can't fix it. Any one of the guys who used to be a chevy diesel tech says theres no way the balancer has moved at all because the engine doesn't vibrate like crazy. But from what I understand thats why most people time them by ear isn't it?
Sorry for the
On a side note If the outer ring has spun would the engine vibratle realy badly?
We have an old 7.3 at work that the timing is clearly retarted but so is the guy workimg on it after two day I finally decided to tell him what was wrong with it. But he wouldn't lesson so today he finaly got the tac and time to work and it says its 16* advanced. I said thats why when i told you how to time it I did not mention any thing about a timing llight. But if he cant get a trouble code out of something he can't fix it. Any one of the guys who used to be a chevy diesel tech says theres no way the balancer has moved at all because the engine doesn't vibrate like crazy. But from what I understand thats why most people time them by ear isn't it?
Sorry for the
Posting Guru
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From: Las vegas
Also are you sure you have it on the right cylinder? it varies by timing device. I would just time it by ear and trial and error from there. advance it untill it sounds kinda like a powerstroke with the cold start advance hot wired but like normal with it off. If you try to adjust it with the engine running use a bar to turn the pump according to standyne there was an instance where a pump locked up while a guy was timing it spun around tangled his arm in the injection lines and riped it off.
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the engine will only vibrate if it is externally balanced like a small block 400
all others that are internally balanced will have no vibration when the ring moves on the balancer
all others that are internally balanced will have no vibration when the ring moves on the balancer
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From: eaton ohio
Also are you sure you have it on the right cylinder? it varies by timing device. I would just time it by ear and trial and error from there. advance it untill it sounds kinda like a powerstroke with the cold start advance hot wired but like normal with it off. If you try to adjust it with the engine running use a bar to turn the pump according to standyne there was an instance where a pump locked up while a guy was timing it spun around tangled his arm in the injection lines and riped it off.
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based on the engines design that has to be an urban legend
the pump is attached to the timing gear cover it would have simply broken the cover away
on the pumps i have seen fail the pump shaft fails it is the weak link for such instances
the pump is attached to the timing gear cover it would have simply broken the cover away
on the pumps i have seen fail the pump shaft fails it is the weak link for such instances
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Unless the bolts were completely removed, there is not enough slot for it to turn very far.
I think this is more like a story to keep people from attempting adjustment while the engine is running.
I could see the shaft siezing if the IP was loose enough, close tolerances in the IP.
I personally adjust mine with the engine off, retighten the IP mounting bolts before starting the engine again.
Even though I am not concerned about loosing my fingers, I am concerned about loosing an IP because I was trying to save a few minutes setting the timing.
If your meter has a place to dial in an offset, it should be set on 20 degree offset and the probe should be on cylinder 1.
I think this is more like a story to keep people from attempting adjustment while the engine is running.
I could see the shaft siezing if the IP was loose enough, close tolerances in the IP.
I personally adjust mine with the engine off, retighten the IP mounting bolts before starting the engine again.
Even though I am not concerned about loosing my fingers, I am concerned about loosing an IP because I was trying to save a few minutes setting the timing.
If your meter has a place to dial in an offset, it should be set on 20 degree offset and the probe should be on cylinder 1.
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I got the light figured out and got the pump timed. The engine sounds great when its running, now the problem is the stupid thing won't start after the engine cools off a little bit. Any suggustions?
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From: Las vegas
Is your cold start advance and high idle solinoid working? You may have inadvertantly knocked the conector off the swich. Its lockated near the front of the passanger side head by the thermstat housing. Also may be a glow plug issue.