I am trying to get my '66 f-100 running. It has been sitting for 10 years. Apparently it started out as a 6-cylinder, but now has what appears to be a period correct 352-2v in it. I bought a carb rebuild kit and rebuilt the carb. I haven't done this for a long time, but I used to be pretty good at it back in the day. I'm not sure if the 352 came out of a truck or a car, but I bought a rebuild kit for a 1966 F-100 w/ a 352-2v. I thought the rebuild went well, but when I put it on the truck, it ran terrible and wet fouled all of the plugs. I pulled the top of the carb off and noticed the bowl was empty. So I filled the bowl with gas to see what would happen. It drained itself in about a minute or less. So now I am puzzled. Why is it draining the bowl? Could it be the "economizer valve"? Here are the tag numbers that were on the carb:

C6TF C
C6BD

Could it be the wrong rebuild kit? I know one of you brainiacs has the answer.

Thanks,

Mark

 

Mark, the exact application of that carb is as follows :

1965 352 F100/350 w/ C/M
1966 352 F100/250(4x2) (with C/M except T/E)

T/E is whats called 'thermactor...the E I think is either emmisions or equipped...its Ca. stuff only to the best of my knowlege, but Bill(ND) will know for sure.

The other carb btw that shows the same application as above is a C5TF-Z

As far as rebuilding...did you replace the float or ??? Did the kit come with an accelerator pump ???
This basic carb has a HUGE application so there are most likely parts in it used only on later year cars...I believe the carb was used up to about 76 or 77...again, Bill would most likely know for certain..

Im also in the process of rebuilding my 2100...for a M/T rig though...

is your truck a manual or automatic ???


- cs65

 

was your kit a Motorcraft kit ??

 

The kit did not come with a float, but the old one seemed ok so I reused it. It wouldn't explain the bowl draining itself right before my eyes. The kit did come with an accelerator pump and it seems to work just fine. The kit was made by GP Sorensen (got it from Autozone). The truck is an automatic (C-O-M, I believe).

 

Hopefully, this is not too far off topic. You mentioned that your engine to be a 352 V-8. May I ask what clued you to that conclusion? I ask becuase I have a mystery motor that some folks believe to be a 352. Are there characteristics to the 352 that might help visually ID it?

Good luck with the carb.

 

I may be mistaken but I thought it was stamped "352" on the side of the block I can't remember which side.

 

Flame...the only way to tell it is indeed a 352 is to pull a plug and put in a wooden dowel or similar to measure the stroke...I dont recall the measurement, but Im sure others on here could tell you.
If its an original truck and so on, there would be a metal tag attached to the dipstick bolt on the LF of the engine...OR possibly the coil bracket bolt...but it was originally on the dipstick tube bolt...If the truck has the extra oil pressure and alt. gauges theres a SLIM chance it may have been used as a wire retianer...as mine was...


- cs65

btw...these tags tell the engines C.I.D. among other things...about 2 inches long by about 1/2 inch and made of aluminum.

 

Sorry I was mistaken thank you for the correction .

 

Talking about a 352, was their a car that came out with a 352?

 

Boys, we're getting off topic. I still need help with this carb.

 

were you having this problem with this carb before you rebuilt it ???


- cs65

 

I just bought it and the last time it ran was 10 years ago. The carb was full of varnish. I'm just trying to bring it back to life.

 

One Motorcraft carb kit fits all Ford 2V's from 1962 thru 1974. With or without smog pump, EGR, DuraSpark, whatever...none of that make a difference.

The kit has the accelerator pump and check valve (when you replace the pump, you need to replace the check valve), economizer (power) valve and the other usual stuff. It does not come with a float.

I don't know of any carb kit regardless who makes it, or what it fits, that comes with a float.

This Motorcraft carb kit has a few extra parts that fit 1970/74's only.

D4AZ9A586A .. Carb Kit (Motorcraft CT499D)

MSRP: $ 31.52 / ftepartsguy.com price: $ 18.91

btw: Most "gypo" autoparts store kits don't come with the check valve.

Have a fuel flow problem? The fuel pumps if the original type, have a tomato juice sized can on them that screws on, inside that can is a cartridge fuel filter.

Most ppl don't know it's there, so it rarely gets changed.

C4AZ9365B .. Fuel Filter (Motorcraft FG1A) MSRP: $8.93 / ftepartsguy.com price: $4.82
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The 352 engine was used in cars: 1958/67 and 1965/67 F100/350's.

The blocks have '352' molded into them, but that doesn't mean diddly-squat, because when cast, the blocks are all 352's.

Only when finished can they be something else.

Measure the stroke: 352/360 = 3.50" / 390 = 3.78"

 

I thought I remembered 352 on the side of the block.

 

Assume the 2v would be simular to 4v with regards to components, and operation. Rebuilt 4v with advise from members in the 'fuel sys.' forum and 1 important piece of advise was to make sure work area was super clean. That being said, just seems the fuel float needle is not seating properly, should be able to adjust the float level without fuel leaking. Don't recall if there is a plug on the side of the 2v carb to check fuel level, but suggest start there. It would seem to me if the fuel level is set too high the needle would not be able to seat causing leakage, perhaps more knowledgeable member can advise. Also, make sure the leak is not coming from a crack in the carb housing, the fuel body or bowl gasket. If Holly carb. make sure the body and bowl gaskets are not defective. The kit would have included new power valve and its gasket, and accelerator pump diaphram. If no visual indication I would probably disassemble and go back thru the rebuild again carefully following the instructions.

I purchased can of carb. cleaner and placed carb in solution overnight, removing floats, and any item that could be damaged by the solution that's not included in the kit. Removed power valve, etc. so I could clean out all the cavities using an air compressor, an aerosol can of the compressed air used to clean computer components would do. Then reassembled following instructions very closely. Taped a clean piece of wrapping paper to the work bench making sure area remained supper clean. Seem to recall making a hastened trip to auto parts store to purchase a 'clutch' type bit to remove the power valve housing. Anyhow, had an urge to add my $.02