how to prime
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New User
Joined: May 2008
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how to prime
All right, I am ready for some help. My wife was driving my truck, she called and said it was running rough. She made it to the house and shut it off. She told me that the fuel filter light had been on solid for about 8 miles. I changed the fuel filter and it had a solid layer of dirt and rust in the bottom. I filled the filter before I put it on. It started just for a second then DIED. I have not been able to get it to fire off at all. Not even with Ether
I guess for starters, how do you properly bleed the system? I still have a full filter and the valve between the tanks is clean and working. I started to drain the rear Tank (suspected Problem,) but it was clean.
Any other suggestions are appreciated..
Thanks
I guess for starters, how do you properly bleed the system? I still have a full filter and the valve between the tanks is clean and working. I started to drain the rear Tank (suspected Problem,) but it was clean.
Any other suggestions are appreciated..
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,701
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From: KY
One thing I have been doing for several years is to take a fuel line loose and use a boat primer bulb and pump out of a bucket or a fuel tank. It will prime a system. Primer bulbs for boats are one of the handiest things to have around.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 1
From: Las vegas
Either is a bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad Idea. yeah pushe the shrader in after an atemp to start if theres no presure either have some one crank it while holding the schrader in or pull the core out and crtank it untill you have fule there.
If there is presure there then pop an injector line and crank it and see if fule squirts out. You may have air in the injector line wich would have to be blead out by cranking it and crackin each line it may start befor you do them all and that will bleed the rest.
Don't crank it for more than 20 seconds at a time and let the starte cool down in between.
If there is presure there then pop an injector line and crank it and see if fule squirts out. You may have air in the injector line wich would have to be blead out by cranking it and crackin each line it may start befor you do them all and that will bleed the rest.
Don't crank it for more than 20 seconds at a time and let the starte cool down in between.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
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Don't use ether without disconnecting the glow plugs. Also, be careful not to burn up your starter (wait 2 minutes after max 20 seconds cranking).
After a lot of cranking, your batteries may be down. If you can count the rotations while it cranks over, it's too slow. If you need to charge, do each battery separately.
When you turn the key on and off (or unhook the solenoid with the key on), do you hear a click at the IP ? Maybe it's now stuck with all the crud that was run through it (although it did start initially...).
Did someone mention before that there is a screen on the intake to the IP?
After a lot of cranking, your batteries may be down. If you can count the rotations while it cranks over, it's too slow. If you need to charge, do each battery separately.
When you turn the key on and off (or unhook the solenoid with the key on), do you hear a click at the IP ? Maybe it's now stuck with all the crud that was run through it (although it did start initially...).
Did someone mention before that there is a screen on the intake to the IP?
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It is a '88 with 7.3L. F250 w/c6. I just brought the mighty vac back from the shop and will try priming it this afternoon. It is hard to explain, but I am fearing the worst. It turns over fast with two new batteries, though it doesn't ever hit. When I shoot it with ether it makes a god aughful noise like the piston is smacking the head. I was told that it had over 300,xxx on it, but can't really tell.
What are you refering to with the IP? The only clicking I hear sounds like it comes from the Glow Plug relay?
I had depressed the schrader valve intially and got a small amount of air, no fuel though. Then I cracked the number five line at the injector, it does seem to have a little bit of air in the lines.
Thank for the help..
What are you refering to with the IP? The only clicking I hear sounds like it comes from the Glow Plug relay?
I had depressed the schrader valve intially and got a small amount of air, no fuel though. Then I cracked the number five line at the injector, it does seem to have a little bit of air in the lines.
Thank for the help..
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Carefully loosen three or four injection lines.
Then crank the engine over using the 20 second, two minute rule.
When you see fuel at an injector, retighten it.
When you have fuel at all the injectors it should start.
Then crank the engine over using the 20 second, two minute rule.
When you see fuel at an injector, retighten it.
When you have fuel at all the injectors it should start.
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