I want to put a 460 into a 1960 F100 2wd so have some questions? Will I need to do anything to the frame to handle the 460 (supercharged, 500hp or so). Any one have any thoughts on motor mounts, thinking about the below?

Trans-Dapt Performance Products 9413 $129.39
Estimated Ship Date: 6/19/08

Brand: Trans-Dapt Performance Products
Product Line: Trans-Dapt Performance Universal Crossmember Motor Mounts
Part Type: Engine Crossmembers
Part Number: TRD-9413
Crossmember Material: Steel
Crossmember Finish: Black painted
Frame Rail Width Range: 28 in.-38 in.
Center to Center Perch Distance (in): 17.500 in.
Mounting Pads Included: Yes
Quantity: Sold as a kit.

Engine Crossmember, Steel, Engine Swap, 28 in. to 38 in. Wide Frame Rail, Ford,Big Block 385 Series,Kit

Todd

 

I don't know about the choices for mounts but unless you have a serious rear suspension you shouldn't damage the frame cuz the rear wheels won't have enough traction to really twist anything. Why do I have a sneaking suspicion that's what you had in mind? ================ ======= === 1st, 2nd & 3rd if ya have posi!!!!!

 

you read my mind ======= ====== == =

 

thats the crossmember i used in my 60 to install a 460. i assume you are sticking with the stock front axle setup? if so, it is a good choice for motor mount. simple and easy to install. you will probably have to remove the rear engine crossmember for tranny clearance though. if using a MII or another style of independent front suspension system, i would just make the motor mounts. not that tough to do. the tublar motor mount won't work properly with the independent suspension systems without mods and interfers with everything (believe me i know, should of made my own mounts, but you live and learn by your mistakes).

i would seriously look at boxing the frame, if not the whole frame at least the front half for strenght and rigidity. don't know exactly your build on the 460, but a properly built supercharged 460 should see way more than 500hp. 500hp from a carbed 460 with the correct selection of parts (and nothing too exotic either) will easily make 500hp. if sticking to stock suspension, seriously look at brake upgrade kits, discs for the front and larger drums for the rear. the stock brakes were not meant for anywhere near that hp and speed.

have fun with it
rgds
Mike

 

That's sounds cool. I've got a 460 in my 58 F100, I'm still working on it. But all the mechanics are in with wiring, fluids, etc. I'm just finishing up the tub and tin work in the bed. I've got the cab painted etc. Getting close now. I might be a good source for you. I can tell ya where I screwed up on ocassion and maybe that might be helpful. And I used that same motor mount--I guess-its almost the same number I bought it from Pick-Ups Northwest- it was years ago, but I still have a page torn out of their catalog with 460-429 Ford Engine, Universal Mount . It was their part number 9313-TD. Just one number different, but I'm guessing this is the same TransDapt assembly. I was very pleased with the piece. I was able to both weld and bolt it in place--appears indestructible to me. I was able to use the Ford 460 rubber mounts with this crossmember--very nice! I'm guessing your using the rear sump oil pan? I bought a FRP crate 460. They come with front sump oil pickup and pan. I had to convert that to rear sump. Have you looked at that issue for your specific situation. You probably have. I did choose to box the frame. In fact for looks etc and issues regarding a place to hang wires and brake lines etc I boxed the thing all the way back. In general its my understanding that for torque/motor issues one only needs to box as far as the firewall, but its not all that hard and cosmetically it made things simpler for me to just box it all the way. Incidentally I'd suggest that you install the motor mount before you box the frame. If in fact you do decide to box the frame. NHRA and similar places require that the motor mount extend to the OEM surface--not just to the boxing added on metal etc. In other words they believe its more stable--and they require it for tech-that this Transdapt mount first to the OEM frame wall and then next you come along and weld in your boxing plates. They want to look under your car and see a triangle of 3 bolt heads sticking out of your OEM frame--or at least a good welding impression indicating that it is welded to the OEM frame and not the boxing plate. Maybe more than you want to know, but I thought I'd better mention it. Its not harder to do it this way, but down the line it makes things easier if anyone every decides to take it to the drags, etc I've got some build photos on my gallery. You may want to take a look.
Good luck, Tom