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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

FE crossmember install modification

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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 02:30 AM
  #1  
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FE crossmember install modification

I just wanted to share some info and things I did while installing the FE into my '56 F100. I added a little support to it and didn't know if anyone else thought of or has done this.
The engine crossmember I used is Trans-Dapt crossmember mount #4037 Ford FE into 53-64 pickups. This is also available through Mid-fifty #4437 and Summit Racing TRD-4037 but was cheaper at Speedway #7204037. I didn't buy their mounts as I recognised them as early '60s Galaxie/Thunderbird mounts. I went to Napa and found them there, over the counter, #602-1058 for a bit cheaper price. The TD mount is #4715. Mount in Mid-Fifty is #4438
For the tranny I used Trans-Dapt #4136 of which I actaully found on craigslist with mount for $50. (speedway# 7204136) It takes what looks to be a common Ford automatic trans mount, in my case for a C6 as well as an FMX. Probably also over the counter at NAPA. Mine came with one so I didn't ask NAPA. (Speedway mount# 91018017)

Anyhow I did a couple modifications to the engine crossmember just to improve strength and accessability to the brakelines. Adding this piece of angle was done to make the whole unit more rigid and tie together the C-channel of the frame. i didn't feel that it was good for the entire weight of the engine to be just on the tops of the channel of the frame. the pieces i cut/rounded are for access to the brake line fittings on either side as the crossmember more or less gets into the way. Here's some pics-

Crossmember installed as-is out of the box. Engine is evenly centered in frame.


With the crossmember installed in the truck, with the engine, I tacked on these brackets. Now with x-member removed, I've final welded. The mark drawn is where i plan to trim the original part of the x-member for better clearance to get to the brake line fittings.


Now trimmed for the clearance. I made sure the added bracket at least extends back to the centerline of the tube itself.


Another shot of the material I removed.


The finished product. Much stronger and more supported now.




Now installed into the truck with the engine mounted.




I utilized the bump stop studs to bolt down the lower portion I added. They seem to be long enough and is basically added as minimal support but mostly to aid in the installation of the bump stops.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 09:51 PM
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Thanks for the info, I may go this way with my 56 M100.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:59 PM
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That's a great idea. How has it held up? Can you remove the starter with the Transdapt crossmember in place? How do headers work with the transdapt crossmember?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by frankcowan
That's a great idea. How has it held up? Can you remove the starter with the Transdapt crossmember in place? How do headers work with the transdapt crossmember?
Seems to be holding up great! The starter is a cinch to remove and can be out in a matter of minutes. I'm not running headers, but if one were to use the Sanderson headers designed for these trucks, i think they will work just fine. I'd run headers, but the Toyota p/s box makes it too tight. If one were to offset the engine an inch or so tward the passenger side, they'd probably be ok then. Something i didn't take into consideration for when i put it together. As with most FE applications, the headers may complicate the starter removal. I think there are a few members on here using headers on their FE, so they'd be the ones to ask.

1oldtimer has a FE powered '54 panel and running headers. His cross member is very similiar to the Trans-Dapt units.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 06:20 PM
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So the crossmember as you got it doesn't catch both the top and bottom of the frame rail? Just the top?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
So the crossmember as you got it doesn't catch both the top and bottom of the frame rail? Just the top?
Yeah, just the top. I guess they feel it was sufficient, but I didn't think so. That's why I added in the pieces to tie them together. Boxing the frame would be just as good too but then getting access to the brake line fittings would require additional modification, so that's why i added the pieces instead.
Also, by design, would make it harder to offset the engine since the angle pieces are pretty much fixed to center the engine in the chassis, unlike cross members for other engines. But right now, that's all that is offered by the aftermarket. There once was a cross member that was offered that you could easily adjust, side to side, like the other engine cross members but I'm not sure why it was discontinued.
 
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