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glow plug wont come out?

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Old May 27, 2008 | 04:26 PM
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switchback05
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Cool glow plug wont come out?

Hey whats up guys.I got a 1988 7.3 diesel.I noticed i had to change 2 glow plugs and when i went to the last one i got it un threded all the way but it wont come out.What the hell!!!.So what our my options if any.Thanks
 
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Old May 27, 2008 | 08:54 PM
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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Spray something like PB Blaster around the glow plug and let it soak for a while.

You have two possible causes for your problem.
1. Carbon build up around the glow plug tip, the PB Blaster will help dissolve the carbon.
2. Swelled glow plug tip, which is harder.

There is an article on Ziggsters page which I do not have bookmarked, but I am sure someone will be along shortly that does.
 
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Old May 27, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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Try this link, it's Ziggsters like Dave suggested."Glow plug removal article"
 
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Old May 28, 2008 | 05:56 AM
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Dieselamour
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I had a glow plug that failed electrically, and it would unthread but not come out when I tried to remove it. So I soaked it with rust buster and just kept turning it GENTLY as I kept slight upward pressure on it. The glow plug finally came out and the tip was swollen. It took me about an hour to remove. I did notice that both the injector and glow plug holes in the head are very small, so putting a magnet inside the cylinder is out of the question. One way you might be able to get smaller pieces out is with a magnetized rod in hope of catching debris- this will only work if the outer portion of the glow plug is able to be grabbed by a magnet, and small enough to exit the hole. Just a thought- You could always try to bring the piston up to the top of the exhaust stroke (exhaust valve open) and blow compressed air in the injector or glow plug hole to try to remove the debris.
 
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Old May 28, 2008 | 07:20 AM
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From: Manitoba
GP tips are NOT magnetic compound......

Anytime a GP removal is halted by a restriction.........do this.

The timing mark is found on a little plate that is on the front of the engine on the passenger side. The plate is mounted so it is very close to the main pulley on the lower front of the engine which is mounted on the vibration damper. On the side of the vibration damper, is a line, which when lined up with the line marked (O) on the plate, tells you that the #1 piston is at TDC(top dead center) You can see the line on the damper, and it points to the line on the plate with the (barely visible)O mark on it.You'll have to find a way to turn your engine over by hand (Crank/harmonic balancer bolt). Make sure you remove the power wire to the injection pump(so the engine won't start)and then rotate the engine until you can line up the marks.

The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.

Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left (passenger USA) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side (USA), front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.

In actual fact I would advise that TDC locating of piston(s) be done as a normal proceedure.......JUST IN CASE.

Once the piston is at TDC then the tip will NOT fall into the cylinder requiring head removal ......to remove the tip.

If a tip does break off then it can be in most cases removed via the injector hole using a vacuum at the injector hole and air pressure in GP hole....

Remember to use a clean bag or canister on the vacuum....... so pieces can be retrieved and identified.
 
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Old May 28, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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thanks guys for your input,much appreciated.
 
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