starter problem again
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Central Alabama
starter problem again
I didn't want to take all your time on a subject that keeps coming up, but I searched as much as I could and did not find the answer to my problem. Starter motor will not spin in normal configuration - key in all connections and batteries good. Jumpered two large posts on starter relay on rt side engine wall and starter whirred good. Next step, removed wire from top small post of relay and jumpered from battery positive to small post and starter whirred good. This means the starter relay is not getting a signal from the key correct? The manual says the next step is to check the continuity inside some thingamajig inside the steering kick panel for the key switch but I don't know what that thing is called. I just want to know if any of you techies know how tough a job it is to remove the steering wheel kick panel and get to this thingamajig?
PS sorry Danica about the Penske team taking you out of the race today!
PS sorry Danica about the Penske team taking you out of the race today!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
If I understand you correctly you turn the key and nothing happens, right? I'm guessing the thingamajig you want to check is your transmission range selector. Can you shift the tranny into nuetral and see if it will start? Have you tried holding the gear selector higher up in the Park range to see if that helps?
The common issue seems to be a couple of loose screws on the gear shift that make the PCM think the truck is in gear so you get the no start condition.
The common issue seems to be a couple of loose screws on the gear shift that make the PCM think the truck is in gear so you get the no start condition.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Well if it's not the gear selector, my manual says it's either the shift linkage or the DTR (Digital Range Transmission) sensor. Apparently it takes a special tool for the installation of a new DTR. Does your manual cover this?
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Freshman User
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From: Central Alabama
The manual is not with me right now. I was just going by memory. When I get back to Ideeho I will have to check. I remember a photo of a white plastic rectangular piece with about 6 or so copper tabs on it that the manual gave a list of contact points to check continuity. Like B2 to B4, B5 to B1, etc.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Mine's got the same thing except for different numbers / letters, so it sounds like you have what you need, but no start in P or N sounds like the DTR is bad.
Let us know what you find.
Let us know what you find.
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From: Chattanooga, TN
FWIW, I had an experience with a GMC gasser similar to what you described. Turns out, that with these tilt steering wheels the wiring can tug back-n-forth when changing the position of the steering wheel. This repeated action can loosen wire connections such that in the right (wrong) position, you loose electrical continuity. I have also seen the neutral safety switch starting to malfunction.
Good luck,
Good luck,
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where is the ignition switch located? im having the samw prob. no start move the shift lever up higher in park and it starts. also shifting back into park when i get there the starter engages. if the shifter is in the right spot as soon as i turn the key on (wait for gp light ) the truck turns over, and the starter wont disengage unless i move the shifter.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
where is the ignition switch located? im having the samw prob. no start move the shift lever up higher in park and it starts. also shifting back into park when i get there the starter engages. if the shifter is in the right spot as soon as i turn the key on (wait for gp light ) the truck turns over, and the starter wont disengage unless i move the shifter.
The ignition switch is the thing you stick your key in. The wires to it are inside the steering column cover.
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Freshman User
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From: Central Alabama
I finally got back into the ignition switch thing in the manual. The key switch moves a slide inside the ignition switch which is easily accessed by removing the knee bolster (four lock tabs). Two torx screws hold the white plastic unit to the steering column.
After disconnecting the batts and waiting 2 minutes (so you don't accidentally deploy the airbag) remove the screws and separate the electrical harness connector from it by loosening the bolt in the center of the connector. Then follow the manual to check continuity in accessory, start and run positions.
Well, I did that and the switch is good. The manual now says to check the voltage to the transmission safety switch. If I get voltage in "start" then the safety switch is bad.
Is that the same as the DTR? and where is this switch and the connector?
After disconnecting the batts and waiting 2 minutes (so you don't accidentally deploy the airbag) remove the screws and separate the electrical harness connector from it by loosening the bolt in the center of the connector. Then follow the manual to check continuity in accessory, start and run positions.
Well, I did that and the switch is good. The manual now says to check the voltage to the transmission safety switch. If I get voltage in "start" then the safety switch is bad.
Is that the same as the DTR? and where is this switch and the connector?