ball joints bad?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 605
Likes: 1
A cross brace bridges between one side of the chassis and the other. It adds strenght and rigidity. An Expedition is a heavy vehicle and the ball joint are supporting that load. To go that for without them wearing out means the vehicle was not driven agressively and it very few pot holes. Probably very little towing too. Ball joints wear out over time. It happens. After 3 sets of tires it's probably time to take a close look at the front end steering gear and suspension parts if not sooner.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 151
Likes: 5
Could be your idler control arm. Mine made similar sound and had to replace it. Just a thought
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 151
Likes: 5
Just a thought. I jack the truck up to take the weight of the wheels so that they accept grease much easier.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 35
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How hard is it to replace the lower ball joint?
I just had my 01 Expy in for new tires and was told the lower/right ball joint is bad. I've turned a wrench and replaced engines, rebuilt complete cars in the old days but before I tear into the Expy... is this a do-it-yourself project or better left to a pro? The $400 estimate seems high but not if special tools, etc. are needed and yes, i realize that even if I do it myself the truck will still need an alignment. Thoughts anyone?
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
I just had my 01 Expy in for new tires and was told the lower/right ball joint is bad. I've turned a wrench and replaced engines, rebuilt complete cars in the old days but before I tear into the Expy... is this a do-it-yourself project or better left to a pro? The $400 estimate seems high but not if special tools, etc. are needed and yes, i realize that even if I do it myself the truck will still need an alignment. Thoughts anyone?
I'll give this a try next week, probably do both lowers and get an alignment.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 151
Likes: 5
Disregard. I found the thread that answers my own question: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...f-150-4x4.html
I'll give this a try next week, probably do both lowers and get an alignment.
I'll give this a try next week, probably do both lowers and get an alignment.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: tampa bay area
Yup. My rotors stayed on the hub when I took them out. I just replaced all 4 on my truck. It wasn't hard really. Go with the directions on the write ups here. I wasted quite some time trying to avoid taking the knuckle out completely......trying to do the bottom first and then the top.(mine is 2 wheel drive) That was a huge waste of time!
Drop the knuckle out of there and its really pretty easy. Just make sure you read the directions on the new parts. Something I normally don't do but happened to on this ocassion. The Moog lowers have to go in a certain way. Someting about a grease channel or something pointing towards the center of the truck. You will see what I mean when you get the parts.
Drop the knuckle out of there and its really pretty easy. Just make sure you read the directions on the new parts. Something I normally don't do but happened to on this ocassion. The Moog lowers have to go in a certain way. Someting about a grease channel or something pointing towards the center of the truck. You will see what I mean when you get the parts.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 35
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Lower ball joint R&R is done…some general thoughts and comments
· Evening before I took off the hub and sprayed the top of the ball joints with WD-40. This made it easier to pop the old units out the next day. Rotors were frozen to hub so I left them on…no biggie…
· I also put the new MOOG units in the freezer. This made it easier to put the new ball joints in.
· I rented the special tools needed (Ball Joint press, 36MM axle nut) from the auto parts store. Since I bought the parts there they did not charge for the rental ;-)
· Fortunately there was no cracking or other visible damage to the control arms or hub.
· Zerk fittings on MOOG ball joints are easy to install after the joints are pressed in. The zerk fitting threads are tappered so I tightened them until the fitting is almost bottomed out against the ball joint top and then pointed them in a direction so I can easily grease the new joints in the future.
Cost was under $100 for both lower ball joints versus the $350-$400 I was quoted from a couple of repair shops to do just ONE. Thanks to the other posters on this forum for the tips. Next project: rear axle seal…
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 151
Likes: 5
I believe you have to replace the entire upper control arm. Here’s one from www.rockauto.com that includes the balljoint with a zerk fitting for $31. Moogs control arms/ball joints are a about $65. If you already have an aftermarket control arm I suspect you will need to get the same manufacturers ball joint.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: north carolina
ceandrews is correct. For first time replacement, the factory upper control arm and ball joint must be replaced. Moog offers a replacement upper control arm that will allow subsequent ball joints to be replaced. The Moog ball joints provide a zerk fitting, but pay attention to position it properly so it's accessible with your grease gun.
John
John