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I have had it with my local service guys telling me that my real jerky snap rolling moments when turning on a washboard road is, "Just the way it is". It did not do that in its first year of service.
And all is stock!
So I am ready to try Bilsteins, front and rear.
My question-
1. Is the removal and install straight forward or are there a few tricks I need to know about?
2. Also what torque value is appropriate?
it is pretty straight foward two nuts and bolts per shock.
the only trick i can say is use an impact gun every chance you can get to remove bolts when removing the factory shocks cause i spent quite a few minutes cussing at bottom bolts on the front shocks till i said forget it and borrowed my neighbors impact gun.
Yep... use an impact where applicable. The front bottom nuts have some kinda thing on them that you'll have to break off once you start gettin it loose.
Yep... use an impact where applicable. The front bottom nuts have some kinda thing on them that you'll have to break off once you start gettin it loose.
Are you talking about the tab that is attached to the nut?
If so, that's so you don't have to hold the nut and can just spin the bolt out.
I put on bilsteins and it helped a lot. But the steering stabilizer made a huge differance. I put on a KYB steering stabilizer from shock warehouse and it is great. Handles so much better.
Budman
Slightly off topic - Budman, if I'm on a budget and I have to pick between the shocks or the stabilizer, which would you go with first? My truck is straight stock. Original shocks at 94,000 believe it or not. No visible leaks on the shocks. No stabilizer on the truck. It didn't come with one from the factory.
I know the shocks have to go. But which would you go with first? The stabilizer or the shocks?
So what about the proper torque on these upper and lower bolts?
As a retired helo maintenance guy, this stuff is important to me.
Thanx
i dont know about everyone else i just tightened the bolt and nut till i couldn't turn it anymore by hand (reassembled with hand tools to prevent stipping the threads). then after 50 miles i made sure the bolts weren't loose, same for 50 more miles after that. once i hit 500 miles i checked again still not loose so i figured they were good to go. no problems till this day.
Hit it with the impact until it doesn't budge but every few hits. Using my electric wrench to roughly that description, the torque stick measuered roughly 150 ft-lbs. Recheck after you put some miles on it, just like the lug nuts.
Do both.
Bilstein Shocks = Expensive, but well worth it. About $250
Stering Stabalizer = Cheap, and well worth it. About $40
Both pretty easy to do. The shock are a little tuff because the are under very high pressure. A second person is very helpfull when putting the shocks on.
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