My truck started pouring white smoke/steam out of the tailpipe. I looked down and watch the temp gauge immediately go into the red. I pull over and shut down. I let it cool for about 25 minutes, crank it back up and then put in a couple gallons of water. I easy down the road a few miles to the first gas station pull in and shutdown. I call a tow service to come get the truck. While i'm waiting for the wrecker a gas truck comes in to make a delivery and I need to move so I hop in and try to crank the truck and the engine will turn over but its like it is out of time. The truck in now at a Ford dealership out of town and they intend to break the motor down to see what they find. My question is what do I need to expect and what kind of power do I have in fixing my truck? Will they do the very minimum to get the truck running again or will they go the extra mile to make sure the truck is fixed right. The motor is still under warranty K miles. What kind of things do I need to make sure they check while it is in the shop? Are the replacements head bolts any better than the original OEM or do I need to get the expensive studs that have been dicussed in previous threads. Any additional advice would be great. By the way I don't have any mods on the truck.

thanks

 

If they have a good 6 liter tech it will get fixed right. If you can afford studs and get them to the tech wrapped in a 100 dollar bill then go for it. Let us know what they tell you.

 

Did you let it idle to cool down or just shut it off when it was in the red?

 

yeah get the head studs you should not have a problem with the heads anymore

 

I did turn it off pretty much as soon as I could get safely off the road.

I talked with the service manager late yesterday evening about what the mechanic had found. I asked to see it the mechanic would install the studs rather than the bolts. The mechanic said it would take 4.5 hours to install the studs due to having to rethread each hole. I did not think this was right but the SM would not let me talk to the manager. Apparently my heads are not warped or cracked and they are going to install a set of gaskets and replace the egr cooler. I don't have a real warm and fuzzy that it will be fixed properly or that they looked at anything else to see if there might be other damage from the motor overheating.

 

As David posted, make darn sure they have a Certified 6.0 Technician!

They'll need to check the heads and block deck to ensure they are flat. Since it got that hot they could have warped and, if so, the heads must be replaced and (possibly) the block machined flat.

They'll also need to take a good look at the EGR and oil coolers, EGR valve, and ask them to check the HPOP fitting while they're in there.

Ask the Technician directly about these issues, not just the Service Advisor. Also, ask the Tech directly about head studs, don't talk to the SA about it.

ARP head studs would be an excellent upgrade as stated above.

 

What is the proper proces for checking the heads and block to ensure they are flat? Do the arp studs require any rethreading of the block?

 

The threads in the block should be 'chased' to clean them up. Basically running a tap into them to ensure they are clean and the TTY bolts can be torqued or (hopefully!) head studs can be inserted properly. The factory TTY head bolts and the ARP studs have exactly the same threads.

Mark (bismic) had some info on this... of course, he has info on just about everything about the 6.0.

 

ARP studs do not need to have the block rethreaded (they are feeding you a bunch of bull).

My dealer charged me 1 hour labor for installing studs rather than stock bolts because they do take a little more time to install.

 

Curious about the extra time - is that because you have to torque the studs, and then torque the nuts separately after the heads are placed? I guess that could be an hour.

The other reason for even more time than that which comes to mind is the difference between doing HG with cab on versus cab off. Some dealers might attempt the repair with cab on with bolts, but will have to lift it for studs. I can see that being the 4.5 hours that the dealer quoted. I realize they lied about the reason.