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Hey guys iam planing on a upgraded turbo and sticks in the future so i would like to see the power diffrence on paper. So there is a local shop that has a all wheel drive dyno and they do alot of Trailblazer SS and GM vechiles there. I just want to know how my powerstroke with a auto trans should be dynoed. I thought i read somewhere on here that it is a pain to keep the truck from shifting into overdrive while dyno run's. Must the truck be ran on the dyno with the overdrive off (via button on shifter) or put the shifter in 3rd gear?? What gear should the dyno operater start the dyno run?
I have a 1991 mustang w/ t88 turbo, powerglide 2 speed trans,etc When we dyno the car it is allways in high gear (2nd) and start the dyno at about 3k rpms.
Any info will be a big help thanks guys.
Erik
well depending on the dyno and operator, you can just turn off the OD button and do the run in 3rd, or they can get it to OD and dyno it in high gear, both ov those depend on who is operating and type of the machine you going to be running on, a lot of gaser dyno dont have enough load to spool diesels, to get full boost, so no boost no max power.
you can get it to 55-60 in OD and than just stomp it , if it downshifts try 65mph.
or get in 3rd to 2000rpm and floor it.
but make sure do one run before upgrades for baseline and one after.
whats your plans for upgrades?
well depending on the dyno and operator, you can just turn off the OD button and do the run in 3rd, or they can get it to OD and dyno it in high gear, both ov those depend on who is operating and type of the machine you going to be running on, a lot of gaser dyno dont have enough load to spool diesels, to get full boost, so no boost no max power.
you can get it to 55-60 in OD and than just stomp it , if it downshifts try 65mph.
or get in 3rd to 2000rpm and floor it.
but make sure do one run before upgrades for baseline and one after.
whats your plans for upgrades?
Good info!
Here is my other thread i started, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ould-i-do.html
iam leaning towards the H2 kit and some B codes.
Deffinaly want to see what she does with the current mods compared to what it will make after the turbo/sticks upgrade. If my truck how it sits now makes close to 300rwhp that will be killer..what do you guys think the torque valve will be with what i have done?
thanks again
Erik
Erik get moded H2E, you will like it better, i have H2E and planning on hetting it upgraded, im running MiniMee injectors.and regulated return. and Terminator pumps. anyways just had it on a dyno and was not able to light up my H2E seemd like , so i just dyno at 432hp and 838Tq, Moded H2e will give you closer to 500hp.
Erik get moded H2E, you will like it better, i have H2E and planning on hetting it upgraded, im running MiniMee injectors.and regulated return. and Terminator pumps. anyways just had it on a dyno and was not able to light up my H2E seemd like , so i just dyno at 432hp and 838Tq, Moded H2e will give you closer to 500hp.
Dam good numbers, i do remember seeing the thread you had started about your truck and another members truck dyno's. Well who has the modded H2? I was looking at using BWD for the purchase of everything, but i dont see anything on there for an upgraded H2 set-up. Yeah i guess i should do the head studs while dong the inj's..dam its one thing after another now.
thanks
Erik
Get the Turbonetics T-70 kit if your going to BWD... Better turbo IMHO and what I plan on getting in the future.
I dyno'ed whats in my sig with a drop in TN BB unit.
I talked to Kevin about the TN ceramic ball bearing units allready and even if i went with the 66mm its going to make 500rwhp easy with the proper sticks. First thing is the cost of the kit is $4000 then at the 500rwhp level i will need to have alot more supporting mods and i think iam going to be out of my spending range.
I did find the moded H2 kit on Beans site and its $3000 for the moded H2 kit. Thats another $600 more then the stock H2 kit and i could spend that $600 on a reg return kit..Maybe iam just making up excuses, but its alot of money and thats why iam still driving around with leaking up pipes, because i can't make up my mind. I know that whatever i do it will improve the hp and torque rating alot over stock i just want to spend my money once and now i did it right the first time.
Oh yeah your rwhp is insane for a drop in TN unit!! Kevin from BWD did tell me to just do the 99+ up uppipe upgrade then do the Garrett or TN drop in unit with a set of B-codes and it will be at 400-450rwhp range. I really thought about it but by the time i do the 99+ converstion and then a drop in turbo it will be right around the cost of a complete H2 kit that includes everything i will need for the most part and it is a better set-up and has room to upgrade if need be.
Why do some people say to run it in Drive with a 1:1 ratio, while some say OD to put more load on the engine? I have a specific dyno tune (also fun to use on the street), but it does not let the truck out of overdrive!
Why do some people say to run it in Drive with a 1:1 ratio, while some say OD to put more load on the engine? I have a specific dyno tune (also fun to use on the street), but it does not let the truck out of overdrive!
So what are you saying, dyno the truck in OD? or atleast try to keep it in OD while doing the dyno..
He is saying that our trucks are run in OD on the dyno. If the dyno is not programmed for a diesel, you are wasting your time. It is in the dyno software.
He is saying that our trucks are run in OD on the dyno. If the dyno is not programmed for a diesel, you are wasting your time. It is in the dyno software.
Gotcha..that will be the first question i will askt eh owner of the shop. I dont want to look like a fool when i ask this question to the owner so iam going to ask you guys..if the dyno is equiped with this software what does the program do?
Ok so i had a brain fart, I forgot about Xtreme Diesel Performance! They are about 5 miles from my house and about 2 miles from my work. Iam just going to call them and set something up. thanks for the help guys.
Erik
Why do some people say to run it in Drive with a 1:1 ratio, while some say OD to put more load on the engine? I have a specific dyno tune (also fun to use on the street), but it does not let the truck out of overdrive!
How is that tune set up? What does it do differently?