collapsed lifter?
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collapsed lifter?
Valve pushrod sunk 1" from the rocker. 292V8 Does this sound like a bad lifter, or worse? And, is there any trick to removing the old one? I've tried a magnet. I have a claw, but can't seem to grab hold of it. I hope it's not mushroomed below...
Can this happen with a solid lifter too? Thanks engine guys
-Blue'64
Can this happen with a solid lifter too? Thanks engine guys
-Blue'64
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Pensacola Florida
collapsed lifter?
I don't want to compound your problem but if the lifter is bad it has to come out the bottom. Y-blocks used mushroom tappets that load from the bottom. The cam is in the way to remove them so you have to take it out first. I'm not sure but I believe the crank is in the way. I may know later tonight as I'm tearing down a 312. Are you sure it is a lifter problem? Have you removed the valley cover and watched it as the motor turns? Unless you know of a trick you'll have to have the motor upside down to do this repair. If the lifters can be pulled up enough out of the bore you might be able to use clothes pins to hold them up with the block in the chassis. good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Thanks Charles
Thanks Charles
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collapsed lifter?
Thanks, I'll take a look at it running..
Yesterday, it actually ran just fine and had plenty of power. But, the oil light flickered on after about 10min on the highway. I shut it down, but took a chance and creeped it on home.
-Blue'64
Yesterday, it actually ran just fine and had plenty of power. But, the oil light flickered on after about 10min on the highway. I shut it down, but took a chance and creeped it on home.
-Blue'64
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collapsed lifter?
..turns out the valve pushrod just fell off the lifter. This happened because the adjusting screw had gotten so loose that it didn't hold the pushrod in place. It's threads are really loose. The pushrod looks to be doing its job now. The engine is firing even better, starting easier, and I think that that cylinder's spark plug will look dry.
But, the engine oil light is still coming on after it warms up. Could this be from my leaky rear main seal? Or maybe some damage that happened because the pushrod was out of place? Thanks for your ideas
-Blue'64
But, the engine oil light is still coming on after it warms up. Could this be from my leaky rear main seal? Or maybe some damage that happened because the pushrod was out of place? Thanks for your ideas
-Blue'64
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collapsed lifter?
Most likely a worn cam lobe. Here is the bad part, all Y-blocks used mushroom lifters that must be removed from the bottom. If you don't want to remove the engine, it can still be done. First remove the timing cover and timing chain. Next remove the intake, valley cover, valve covers, rocker shafts, and pushrods. Now you need to fashion some retainers for the lifters. I have used clothes pins, but I'm sure there are other things that can be used. Once you have pulled all of the lifters up und have got something clipped to them to keep the in place, you can remove the camshaft. Now you will need a piece of conduit of plastic pipe smaller than, but pretty close to the diameter of the cam. Saw the conduit or pipe in half, and put in place of the camshaft. The offending lifter can now be dropped into the conduit or pipe and retrieved with a magnet. Installation is just as easy. Place the new lifter in the conduit or pipe and push down to the appropriate lifter bore with a non-magnetic tool. Now take a small magnet through the lifter bore and pull the lifter into place, and install retainer. Install NEW camshaft and you're back in business. This might sound like a lot of backbreaking work, (and it is) but it beats pulling the engine.
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From: Western NC
collapsed lifter?
>..turns out the valve pushrod just fell off the lifter.
>This happened because the adjusting screw had gotten so
>loose that it didn't hold the pushrod in place. It's
>threads are really loose. The pushrod looks to be doing its
>job now. The engine is firing even better, starting easier,
>and I think that that cylinder's spark plug will look dry.
>
>But, the engine oil light is still coming on after it warms
>up. Could this be from my leaky rear main seal? Or maybe
>some damage that happened because the pushrod was out of
>place? Thanks for your ideas
>
>-Blue'64
I've got some bad news for you. One reason why the rear main seal might leak is the bearings are all sloppy. If the bearings are worn, you're not going to keep any seal in there and you're going to have to go for at least a bottom end rebuild. How do I know? My symptoms were EXACTLY the same as yours. My seal wasn't just leaking oil, it was pouring oil. $2700 for a rebuild of the same core.
>This happened because the adjusting screw had gotten so
>loose that it didn't hold the pushrod in place. It's
>threads are really loose. The pushrod looks to be doing its
>job now. The engine is firing even better, starting easier,
>and I think that that cylinder's spark plug will look dry.
>
>But, the engine oil light is still coming on after it warms
>up. Could this be from my leaky rear main seal? Or maybe
>some damage that happened because the pushrod was out of
>place? Thanks for your ideas
>
>-Blue'64
I've got some bad news for you. One reason why the rear main seal might leak is the bearings are all sloppy. If the bearings are worn, you're not going to keep any seal in there and you're going to have to go for at least a bottom end rebuild. How do I know? My symptoms were EXACTLY the same as yours. My seal wasn't just leaking oil, it was pouring oil. $2700 for a rebuild of the same core.
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