Rough running 7.3 na
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Rough running 7.3 na
My van started running rough at idle but smooths out when you give it some throttle. I changed the fuel filter, no change. I changed the injectors and still no change. When I pulled the #4 injector it was covered with motor oil, does that mean anything? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Rick
Rick
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Was the oil on the tip or the outside of the injector or both?
Leaking rocker covers can fill the hole around the injector with oil.
If there was enough in the hole around the outside of the injector, when you removed the injector everything got oil on it.
Leaking rocker covers can fill the hole around the injector with oil.
If there was enough in the hole around the outside of the injector, when you removed the injector everything got oil on it.
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The compression on #4 is 420. They are all between 400 and 440. I'll try to open the injector lines one at a time and check that with the new injectors. With the old injectors they didn't change consistently.
The oil on the injector was thick and black and went from the threads to the nozzle. A leaking gasket makes sense. The new injectors are more responsive than the old but I don't know why it idles rough. Could it be the injector pump/how do you check that?
Thanks
Rick
The oil on the injector was thick and black and went from the threads to the nozzle. A leaking gasket makes sense. The new injectors are more responsive than the old but I don't know why it idles rough. Could it be the injector pump/how do you check that?
Thanks
Rick
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The new injectors with new springs and all inside them may be taxing the old IP with higher pressure.
And the higher pressure may have retarded the timing a bit.
How well can you see the IP mounting bolts?
And the higher pressure may have retarded the timing a bit.
How well can you see the IP mounting bolts?
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It's a van and the IP is right under the dash. I might be able to see them with a mirror. Is it bolted horizontally towards the front or down towards the block?
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Horizontal bolts, three of them, heads face rearward.
What I was going to suggest was loosening the IP and turning the top about 3/32" toward the passenger side.
But before you try that, how does the engine start?
Any smoke at idle or while driving?
How well can you see the IP with the engine cover removed and the air cleaner removed?
Do you run any fuel system cleaner or conditioner?
What I was going to suggest was loosening the IP and turning the top about 3/32" toward the passenger side.
But before you try that, how does the engine start?
Any smoke at idle or while driving?
How well can you see the IP with the engine cover removed and the air cleaner removed?
Do you run any fuel system cleaner or conditioner?
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It starts pretty good considering the cold start plunger that pushes the throttle fell apart and doesn't work. As long as the batteries are charged it starts right up. It doesn't smoke at idle or driving except for a light grey smoke that is only noticable at night with headlights behind me. I think it smokes more from motor oil driping from the bottom rear valve cover bolt on to the exhaust. I can see the IP from the front or back but its tight in the engine compartment. I think I can reach the bolts from the front. I use power service additive and a half quart of 2cycle at fill ups. It smooths out with more RPM's and then goes back to rough at idle. Is that why you're thinking timing?
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I am thinking timing because you have new injectors and an old IP.
The old IP may be taking to long to build enough pressure to fire the injectors at idle.
I am also wondering what shape the timing plunger in the bottom of the IP is in.
On an F series I would tell you to push it in with the engine running to see if it makes any difference.
I don't know if you can reach it in an E series.
The old IP may be taking to long to build enough pressure to fire the injectors at idle.
I am also wondering what shape the timing plunger in the bottom of the IP is in.
On an F series I would tell you to push it in with the engine running to see if it makes any difference.
I don't know if you can reach it in an E series.
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I pushed in the plunger and the engine ran the same except quieter. I can see the top bolt and I can feel more than see the drivers side bolt. I can't see the passenger side bolt at all, there is a plate that the throttle spring connects to in the way. I loosened the top bolt and the drivers side and the engine runs different now, still not right but better. I can't tell if the IP moved at all but it must have at least a little. The IP was replaced 30,000 miles ago but it still could be ng. I can't see any marks to line it up to. I could probably get to the third bolt if I take the plate off that is above it.
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I took the plate off and was able to see the bolt. I had to torch an old wrench and bend it to get on the bolt head. All 3 are loose and the hard knocking sound went away but it still idles like it's missing a cylinder or two. I didn't move it much, it doesn't want to move easily.
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
What was the tach doing when the light started flashing?
Missing and engine sounds are so hard to figure out typing about them.
With a mirror and light, you should be able to see the static timing marks from the front of the engine compartment.
When you move the IP, you are twisting against all the injection lines, so it wants to spring back to the original position.
Missing and engine sounds are so hard to figure out typing about them.
With a mirror and light, you should be able to see the static timing marks from the front of the engine compartment.
When you move the IP, you are twisting against all the injection lines, so it wants to spring back to the original position.