292 Rebuild
'55 F100
I got my block and crankshaft to the machine shop yesterday. Going to rebuild from the bottom up. They will provide and install the cam bearings. As soon as the machine shop gives me the final bore and crankshaft journal sizes I can order the pistons, rings and bearings.
Anybody have a good source with good prices on parts? I am leaning toward buying them from www.Ford-y-block.com website. Prices are pretty good compared to some of the catalogs I've seen and other online sites. Looking for cast pistons, moly rings, rod bearings, main bearings, rod bushings. Total is $506 with shipping included.
I have a reground cam, rebuilt heads, new oil pump, timing set and a complete gasket set.
Thanks,
Roger
Paul
Paul
'55 F100
Thanks for the input Paul. I am not too concerned with the internal parts since the stock parts held up so well over all these years. That is why I am not using forged pistons etc. I will not be racing but will drive on the street. I did have the heads rebuilt and made sure all the valve seats were replaced due to rust. Most valves were reusable but a few were bent and had to be replaced. Also put in new valve springs to match the requirements of the new cam. Heads were resurfaced and are ready to go.
John Mummert is very knowledgable about these Y-block engines and that is one reason I am buying parts from his web site. The other is he has reasonable prices.
Thanks,
Roger
'55 F100
I started the assembly of my 292 and I have posted pics on my gallery in case anyone would like to see the progress. I noticed that the machine shop forgot one oil gallery plug on the front of the block and I had to get a set of block dowels from them. Turns out that small block Ford dowels fit.
Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
'55 F100
Just a complete rebuild on a set of -113 heads, big valves and high compression for a Y block. The heads were rusty from sitting outside so long before I got them. They had to be thoroughly cleaned, bead blasted, surfaced, and all new valve seats installed. 3 valves were replaced. Still only paid $375 for all that work. I did provide heavy duty valve springs with dampers because of the high lift cam I used.
I took them to Cylinder Head Specialist in OKC.
I'm in the process of rebuilding my wife's 56 Fairlane 292. I want to convert it to a PCV system to help prevent the huge mess that the road draft system made, and to help the engine last longer. Any tips?
Also, I broke my harmonic balancer trying to remove it (my trick balancer puller was no help in this application). I notice that you've got a balancer with two pulleys on it. Where did you get that part?
TIA,
'55 F100
The 292s from about 1962 to 64 in the trucks used a PCV system. The 1964 engine that I am building has that system. The valley pan is different at the back where some engines had a small diameter road draft tube, this one has a connector for a hose which connected to a PCV valve. The valve screwed into a 90 degree elbow fitting on the intake manifold. You can modify your valley pan or look for a later model one that has the hose connector. I have not been able to find the original style PCV valve but I did find one for a 292 that has hose barbs on both ends at my local Autozone.
If you want to go the custom route, buy a finned aluminum valley pan and drill it out for the pcv valve and oil fill tube.
I am building a 3 deuce carb setup on a Wieand manifold using the original valley pan for the pcv system. If you checkout my gallery page you can see the valley pan.
Hope this helps. I will check my extra parts to see if I have another valley pan like this one.
Roger
'55 F100
I got the crank pulley on ebay. Good source for Y block parts. I have a couple of single groove crank pulleys if you need one to get you going.



