Well guys I hate to do this instead or making a new post, but I need some help. I have had a 63 F100 now for about 3 years, and I finally decided to work on it. It has a 292 and I would like to do a rebuild on it. I am having trouble finding aftermarket parts for it. I know that Comp Cams will do a custom grind for it and the valve train. I am looking for a aluminum intake for a 4-brl. Need help on pistons and valves. Where would I go for any thing I should change on it. I need to know pretty much everything lol. First time i have worked on a Y-block. Any help would be appreicated.

 

>Well guys I hate to do this instead or making a new post,
>but I need some help. I have had a 63 F100 now for about 3
>years, and I finally decided to work on it. It has a 292 and
>I would like to do a rebuild on it. I am having trouble
>finding aftermarket parts for it. I know that Comp Cams will
>do a custom grind for it and the valve train. I am looking
>for a aluminum intake for a 4-brl. Need help on pistons and
>valves. Where would I go for any thing I should change on
>it. I need to know pretty much everything lol. First time i
>have worked on a Y-block. Any help would be appreicated.

RogerF100
'55 F100

The 292 I rebuilt is from a '64 F100. I ordered most of my parts from www.ford-y-block.com ,John Mummert is a recognized expert on Y block engines. He knows what works. He also distributes the new Blue Thunder aluminum 4V intake. He can provide everything you need to rebuild your engine even new cams. If you want to go racing John Mummert has aluminum roller rockers, but they are pricey.

I would recommend Red's Headers at www.reds-headers.com for rebuilding your rocker arms and for headers of course. I just got my rocker arms back and they are great. Red can install bronze bushings in the rockers and mount them on hardened chrome shafts. They should last as long as the rest of the engine. Red also does custom cam regrinding on your original cam and has new cams. Schnieder Racing Cams actually does the grinding for him.

The real trick is finding a good machine shop to do the work. I had my machine work done at a local shop and then I assembled the engine myself.

 

Hi, Cowboy and welcome.

Also on John Mummert's web site is a link to a guy that has a newsletter for Y-blocks. I'm going to subscribe to it when I get a spare $20.

AFAIC, building Y-blocks is a little tricky. On later engines you have to be careful about which head bolts go where, connecting rods can differ so you need to be careful about pistons, etc. But the basic design of the y-block seems pretty sound and parts are available. And the 'hot stuff' is pretty well figured out. 56-57 rocker shaft assemblies, 57 ECZ-G heads, and for an iron manifold, the ECZ-B intake.

There are some tricks for the oiling system. I drilled holes in the lifter valley to allow oil to drip onto the camshaft. And the rocker shafts get some mods to pressurize the oiling of the valve train.

The heads are quench design, so the short block needs to be 'zero-deck' or better to help that work. I'm trying to figure out what the thickness of the ROL head gaskets sold on ebay are. As far as I can tell, they're .045" so I'll be asking my machinist for a +.005 or +.010 deck.

Good luck,

 

Thanks guys I'm glad someone gave me the right place to get parts for my first Y-block engine

 

well i have a few more questions. how would I go from a 3.30 stroke to a 3.66 or better stroke? and how would i wire up a alternator and voltage regulator on my 63? the alt. and regulator are new for a 66. I tired posting these questions in my own thread but no one answered.

 

>well i have a few more questions. how would I go from a 3.30
>stroke to a 3.66 or better stroke? and how would i wire up
>a alternator and voltage regulator on my 63? the alt. and
>regulator are new for a 66. I tired posting these questions
>in my own thread but no one answered.

RogerF100
'55 F100
:-staun

To get that much stroke will require custom rods. The biggest Y block was the 312 and had a stroke of 3.44 with a 3.80 bore. I have not seen any stroker kits for the y block, but John Mummert has built some from mild to wild. Send him an email and he can tell you what can be done. I know he sells aluminum rods for the Y block. Expect to pay mucho $$$

As for the alternator, buy a 1 wire alternator with the regulator built in. Eliminate the external regulator. Connect the battery wire to the alternator and you are ready to go. Hot Rod and Custom Supply sells a custom alternator bracket, but if your planning on adding A/C I would get their combination bracket to mount the alternator and a compressor. You can find them at www.rodncustom.com
out of Florida.

 

I saw a custom stroker crank for a y-block on ebay a while ago. I forget the length of the stroke but it was longish.

There were some steel cranks in 292 heavy duty trucks in the early 60's. A steel crank can be welded and offset ground. Speaking of offset grinds, you can offset grind a 312 crank from 3.44" to 3.51", but you probably already know that.

Also, I've heard that 292 blocks can be bored way out, something like .120". Even with a 3.51" stroker crank in a .120" overbored 292, you've only got 330 cubic inches. Oh well.

 

Thanks seems like you always have the right answers. Thanks, I hope my rebuild is a success. Hope everyone else's is coming along good.

 

RogerF100
'55 F100

Cowboy_tx wrote,
<and how would i wire up a alternator and voltage regulator on my 63? the alt. and regulator are new for a 66>

I can check my wiring in my 55. It already had an alternator in it when I got it. It did not hit me at first that you already have an alternator to install.

 

Yeah, I started to think about the alternator, and went back and got a one wire. My Napa guy has lots of knowledge and got me the one he put on his 43 ford-he does a lot of old car restoring . I just found out today that I have C1AE heads on my truck I thought mine was a truck lol. I took of the valley cover and found four bent pushrods laying there, but I still had all of them in place-just spare parts lol.

 

What have y'all done about PCV valves on these old engines? Is there a modern type that you are using? If so how are u running it?

 

Hi Cowboy. I'm collecting parts and info to convert to PCV for my 292. I'll post the final results here. I have a pushrod chamber cover that has a breather vent on the back. I'm thinking that I'll draw air out of that vent, through a PCV and into the intake. I'll put a fitting with a hose on the oil filler tube and attach the hose to the clean air side of the air filter.

Modern designs pull air out of one valve cover and into the other. One problem with trying this on a y-block is the need for an oil separator on the outlet side of the airflow. I've considered removing one from a Chevy valve cover and putting it on the y-block.

Another approach is to use the crankcase breather that came with my 56 engine. It has the separator built in. Just run a hose to either a PCV valve and then the intake, or to the air filter, depending on which way the gasses are flowing. Considering that volatiles and vapor will tend to rise, it makes sense to let that be the air supply and not the vent.

Best regards,

 

I have a 63 with a vent coming out of the valley cover and going to the intake. I was wondering what I could use besides the original screw in type PCV? I would like to just have a hose fitting that goes to a connection on the manifold.

 

I expect you could use any of the older style PCV valves. I think the only issue is after you've installed whatever type of PCV valve, the carb will have to be tuned to work with that PCV because the PCV valve will be bleeding some air into the intake.

 

RogerF100
'55 F100

I found a PCV valve for a 292 car engine at the local Autozone. It has a hose connection on each end.

;-)