My '59 F250 4x4 has a 292. I planning to do an off frame restoration. The truck has only 18,000 original miles on it, and the 292 runs great and only has a few oil leaks. My questions are: Should I rebuild the entire engine anyway, or Just replace the seals, gaskets and paint it? I know I should make sure the tubes that bring the oil to the top are clear, but is there anything else I should do. Any thoughts, comments, or opinions are greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Kenny

 

I would say, that if it's not smoking, missing, backfiring, or burning anything other than gas leave it alone. Although, as the saying goes; "If it ain't broke', you're not tryin!" :-)
Don't do more work than you have to. My 292 has 12x,xxx miles, and is barely starting to burn oil. You've still got 100k miles before you have anything to worry about.
I say go for the gaskets, seals and paint.

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

Thanks for your input Andrew. That's what I was kind of leaning toward doing, but I thought I should toss it up in the air anyways. It doesn't apear to be burning any oil at all (doesn't smoke), plenty of power, kicks right over (even in cold weather), no weird sounds, etc. It was owned by a fire dept. and only used for night fires. I figure due to the low milage it must have sat for a while too. I figure not much else could have gone bad from low usage over time except for the seals and gaskets. Do you agree?
Kenny

 

Yeah, just keep in mind that petroleum products munch on anything made of rubber, so any rubber lines would have to be replaced as well. Maybe rebuild the carb and go for a newer style dist. cap and wires (to stop crossfire), and if you haven't already, I would put in a pertronix unit to replace the points. Also, maybe, an ignition box, headers, and a 4 bbl.
I would go for performance... replace seals/gaskets and then go for intake/exhaust/mild cam

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

If it is the original engine, I would pull the heads and have the hardened seats put in. With the old non-hardened seats, when you downshift, you will start to hear a bubbling sound as you let off the gas, and maybe an occasional backfire out of the carb later, then you could blow the head gaskets due to the increased head temperature from the exhaust gases venting thru the intake valves.

Marc
59-F100 4x4
292 y block
t-98
106000 original miles

 

Thanks Marc. It is the original engine, and it only has 18,000 original miles on it. Are you saying that I will still need to install the hardened seats in the near future, or a few years from now? I plan to keep this as a low milage vehicle (well, as much as possible)
Kenny

 

I would use a lead substitute/additive for now, then contact a local machine shop for an idea on how long the engine will last without the hardened seats. I got about 10,000 miles after a valve job in 1969. the truck sat from 84-98 and was restarted. I took out the spark plugs, squirted 1-2 oz of transmission fluid in each cylinder, let it sit for a few days, then turned the engine by hand,......etc email me if you have any questions

Marc

Tucson, AZ.

 

ignore that atf stuff, I see your engine is running fine.

 

I have been using the lead addative since I bought the truck. Luckily, the previous owner told me that he did this also. I'm definately going to look into what you sugguested. Thanks for the info.
Kenny

 

What I've heard is the valve seats are OK for years if you just sort of cruise around town at low RPM every now and then, but if you drive the truck at highway/interstate speeds at all then you have to go with the hardened valve seats, the wear will be quick then. The lead additives might help but I think the consumer reports tests showed you have to use about three bottles per tank all the time, which gets expensive.

 

>If it is the original engine, I would pull the heads and
>have the hardened seats put in.

I don't have a problem with the original seats in my 63,
but then again, I'm not racing it either, and I adjust the
valves every year, weather they need it or not. Hardened
seats are a bit of a misnomer, if they ain't stellite,
they ain't hard...

>With the old non-hardened
>seats, when you downshift, you will start to hear a bubbling
>sound as you let off the gas, and maybe an occasional
>backfire out of the carb later, then you could blow the head
>gaskets due to the increased head temperature from the
>exhaust gases venting thru the intake valves.

Where did you hear that?? In the last 3 years, I've lost less
than 2 thousands from the exhaust seats,And the intakes havent
changed at all. Granted I've only put 15K miles on the truck,
but the seat wear isn't as bad as you think...

Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100
'68 F100
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
'98 Contour SVT 2.5L V6 (Mods)
'01 ZX2 (No Mods yet)

 

I would take the oil pan off and attempt to change the rear oil seal as it may have dried out,and if the crankshaft seems okay and it gets proper oil lubrication at the rocker arms up top by your valves,i would not rebuild it Janet

 

I'd have to cast my vote with Tedster9, Steve, and Janet in that I'd not rebuild anything unless there was a problem. I'd also agree with them in that I'd not touch the heads if you don't need to. If there's a need to take the heads off, then you can put in the hardened seats. I'm not sure I'd even bother using the additive...especially for in-town driving. I'll also second the comment that I've heard of no problems from folks whose driving cycle includes non-highway driving when in pre-unleaded vehicles. When it needs it, then take off the heads and have inserts put in.

That said, it's my take that the 292's were leakers...especially the rear main seal which apparently wasn't one of Ford's better ideas. My own specimen had had a rear main brg. that was totally trashed...perhaps from running out of oil. There was at least 0.030 clearance there. All this at 41k miles. That's why I got into my own Y in a big way and that's the only reason. I had mine done with the folks at Jasper Engines and I got my own block and heads back (I recall that the "same block" option cost another $125). In an earlier post, the idea of detecting a problem by exhaust sound was raised. My own makes that same sound after rebuild (it did before as well), so I'm not sure about that one.

 

I too had my engine rebuilt by jasper so far it is doing fine. Best part is it only took a week.I have used my truck as a daily driver sinse 1988 and their is some truth about hardened seats it takes about 60 or 70 thousand miles with no addiative to have any problems.I also think that cheap gas 87oct is not good for them eather. Kenny If I were you I would do seales ,gaskets ,paint and a good look. And save your money. 18000 it is just starting to run good.

 

Thanks for everyone's input!
This thread is now 3 years old, and I still haven't even started the restoration!

So far, I have put less than 900 miles on her over the last three years. This truck will be taken out for short local trips, due to the 4.55, and 4.56 gears!
I apreciate your advice, and I'll just replace the seals and paint.
Thanks again!