IDI engine block heater
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 162
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From: Denver, CO
IDI engine block heater
I haven't delved into the issue yet, but it appears as though my engine block heater isn't working anymore.
So a few questions before I begin:
1) How do I tell if it is an aftermarket heater or a factory heater?
2) Is there a dedicated fuse?
3) Where is the heater located?
4) Common troubleshooting techniques.
Please advise,
Chris
So a few questions before I begin:
1) How do I tell if it is an aftermarket heater or a factory heater?
2) Is there a dedicated fuse?
3) Where is the heater located?
4) Common troubleshooting techniques.
Please advise,
Chris
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
What year is the engine?
There is no fuse for the block heater. The cord from the wall out let goes strait to the heater.
I don't know if there is a way of telling a factory heater from an aftermarket.
The block heater is located on the passenger side of the block above the starter.
The most common problem is the copper in the cord fatiguing and breaking the circuit at the wall plug end.
I would unplug the cord from the block heater and to a continuity test on each of the three wires in it to see if that is the problem.
As a word of caution, if there is a bad contact in the block heater cord, it may pose a mild fire hazard.
There is no fuse for the block heater. The cord from the wall out let goes strait to the heater.
I don't know if there is a way of telling a factory heater from an aftermarket.
The block heater is located on the passenger side of the block above the starter.
The most common problem is the copper in the cord fatiguing and breaking the circuit at the wall plug end.
I would unplug the cord from the block heater and to a continuity test on each of the three wires in it to see if that is the problem.
As a word of caution, if there is a bad contact in the block heater cord, it may pose a mild fire hazard.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
What year is the engine?
There is no fuse for the block heater. The cord from the wall out let goes strait to the heater.
I don't know if there is a way of telling a factory heater from an aftermarket.
The block heater is located on the passenger side of the block above the starter.
The most common problem is the copper in the cord fatiguing and breaking the circuit at the wall plug end.
I would unplug the cord from the block heater and to a continuity test on each of the three wires in it to see if that is the problem.
As a word of caution, if there is a bad contact in the block heater cord, it may pose a mild fire hazard.
There is no fuse for the block heater. The cord from the wall out let goes strait to the heater.
I don't know if there is a way of telling a factory heater from an aftermarket.
The block heater is located on the passenger side of the block above the starter.
The most common problem is the copper in the cord fatiguing and breaking the circuit at the wall plug end.
I would unplug the cord from the block heater and to a continuity test on each of the three wires in it to see if that is the problem.
As a word of caution, if there is a bad contact in the block heater cord, it may pose a mild fire hazard.
I'll check the cord first...thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
When you get a new one, I have seen them from 600 to over 1500 watts.
In Denver I think I would want at least 1000 watts, but if you leave it on a long time the electric bill will be higher.
In Denver I think I would want at least 1000 watts, but if you leave it on a long time the electric bill will be higher.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Is there another timer out there that is more robust? (I feel like the light timer is rather light duty).
Thanks,
Chris
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
An electrical supply house will have a selection of timers, some programable for different times for 7 days.
Intermatic is a very popular one, prices start at about 50 dollars for the simple 24 hour ones, and go up as they get more complex.
You should use one that can handle 20 amps minimum.
120*20= 2400 watts
General rule of thumbs, load a circuit to 70% of max capacity.
2400*.7 = 1680 so a 20 amp timer would handle a 1500 watt block heater very well.
Also keep the extension cord short as possible and use one with wire 10 AWG in size.
If the cord is hot or even warm after the block heater has been pluged in for a while, the wire size is to small.
Intermatic is a very popular one, prices start at about 50 dollars for the simple 24 hour ones, and go up as they get more complex.
You should use one that can handle 20 amps minimum.
120*20= 2400 watts
General rule of thumbs, load a circuit to 70% of max capacity.
2400*.7 = 1680 so a 20 amp timer would handle a 1500 watt block heater very well.
Also keep the extension cord short as possible and use one with wire 10 AWG in size.
If the cord is hot or even warm after the block heater has been pluged in for a while, the wire size is to small.
Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: I live in Tennessee
the fuse for the block heater would be in your houses circuit breaker and the heater itself is located in the last freezout hole on the passenger side.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 549
Likes: 1
From: Mississippi
if you want a "robust" timer, check a plumbing or electrical supply house. i'm not sure if the water heater timers are 220 volt only, but i'm thinking i've seen some timers there that would handle 20 amps. worth checking to see if they have a 110 volt.
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