Front Brake Pads Gone Wrong!!!
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Posting Guru
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From: Bridgewater, VA
Front Brake Pads Gone Wrong!!!
Got new pads installed yesterday (Carquest Ceramic's) and I go out to take a test spin and the peddle goes almost to the floor before it grabs 
. Did not lube up the slide pins or tracks for the pads... could this be where my problem is. I used a C-clamp to pull the pistons back to get enough clearance for the pads, but I'm at a loss. Can't mess with it till 3pm but any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
. Did not lube up the slide pins or tracks for the pads... could this be where my problem is. I used a C-clamp to pull the pistons back to get enough clearance for the pads, but I'm at a loss. Can't mess with it till 3pm but any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
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Posting Guru
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From: Bridgewater, VA
Pumped and pumpd and pumped and pumped. I could pump them up and they would hold pressure (what feels normal) but if i went 100 yards, the peddle would go back to the floor. Ugh i hate this. Ball joints went easy though 
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Sterling Heights,Mi
Please look for oil leaks, if none is found, and by the sounds of it, i would be suprised, then find some one to help bleed them with you.. Start at teh right rear ( passenger back ) then left rear, right front, left front. Even if you dont see bubles at first, bleed a couple time each wheel to be safe.
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From: Bridgewater, VA
Thanks, Pat. I got frustrated yesterday and parked the truck and jumped back in the Ranger (God help me how did i ever drive this thing). But i will rediagnose today after school and if no luck the local mechanic will love me (my dad's a sucker for "professional" mechanics) ughh i hate this stuff when it goes wrong.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Sterling Heights,Mi
BELIEVE ME, BEEN THERE!! Kind of nice to have a place to share it with, seems the wife just dont get it..
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Posting Guru
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From: Bridgewater, VA
Haha yea all i heard last night from my dad was "I told you to take it down to the mechanic. You're gonna mess it up one time and it ain't gonna get fixed...
" Haha ahh not married but I can relate to what some of you all go through.
" Haha ahh not married but I can relate to what some of you all go through.
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From: Mountaintop, PA
Did you open the bleeder as you were using the c-clamp to force the pistons back? I ask becuase if you do not open the bleeder, it pushes air into the brake lines. Never force pistons back unless the bleeder is open while doing it. At the end of the job, just add new brake fluid to the master cylinder that was lost during brake job.
Smokin
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Trying is the only way to learn.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Bleed out the brakes.
Better yet, flush it out. It takes two people, one at the wheel and the other inside the cab pumping the pedal.
Get a bottle and a two foot piece of fuel line that will fit snugly over the nipple of the bleeder. Put the wrench on the bleeder valve, then install the hose over that and insert the other end of the hose into the bottle. Open the bleeder valve 1/3 turn. Partner at this time begins to pump the brake pedal, with a 3 second pause at the top of the stoke to allow the master cylinder to refill. 10 stroke minimum per wheel. On the last stroke, partner holds the pedal all the way down, then you close the bleeder valve. Refill the reservoir between each wheel.
RR, LR, RF, LF wheel in that order. From the longest to the shortest.
That will purge all the air from the system and will also get nice new fresh fluid throughout the entire brake system, including the ABS unit.
Been using that technique for 25+ years now.
Better yet, flush it out. It takes two people, one at the wheel and the other inside the cab pumping the pedal.
Get a bottle and a two foot piece of fuel line that will fit snugly over the nipple of the bleeder. Put the wrench on the bleeder valve, then install the hose over that and insert the other end of the hose into the bottle. Open the bleeder valve 1/3 turn. Partner at this time begins to pump the brake pedal, with a 3 second pause at the top of the stoke to allow the master cylinder to refill. 10 stroke minimum per wheel. On the last stroke, partner holds the pedal all the way down, then you close the bleeder valve. Refill the reservoir between each wheel.
RR, LR, RF, LF wheel in that order. From the longest to the shortest.
That will purge all the air from the system and will also get nice new fresh fluid throughout the entire brake system, including the ABS unit.
Been using that technique for 25+ years now.
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Did you open the bleeder as you were using the c-clamp to force the pistons back? I ask becuase if you do not open the bleeder, it pushes air into the brake lines. Never force pistons back unless the bleeder is open while doing it. At the end of the job, just add new brake fluid to the master cylinder that was lost during brake job.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,708
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From: Kiowa CO
Make sure your slide pins are lubed and working. If they are frozen in place, the caliper will not seat the pads properly. I've learned the hard way by neglecting mine and it cost me dearly in time and $$$. Read: new calipers and backing plates. Just another place to look.