rear brake lines
#1
05-13-2008, 06:32 AM
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Connecticut Shoreline
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rear brake lines
My 1987 Bronco II is equipped with rear anti-lock brakes.
Recently the line ruptured from the pumpkin to the driver's side wheel cylinder. Foolishly I bent up a new line and figured I was good to go.
Apon bleeding I found the next weakest link, the line from the front that runs along the frame to the anti-lock control valve.
I know it will not stop there and will go for replacing all the rear lines.
Question is about bleeding them. I notice the Anti-lock control valve has a bleeder.
What is the proceedure for getting them bled properly ?
-Joe W
Recently the line ruptured from the pumpkin to the driver's side wheel cylinder. Foolishly I bent up a new line and figured I was good to go.
Apon bleeding I found the next weakest link, the line from the front that runs along the frame to the anti-lock control valve.
I know it will not stop there and will go for replacing all the rear lines.
Question is about bleeding them. I notice the Anti-lock control valve has a bleeder.
What is the proceedure for getting them bled properly ?
-Joe W
#3
05-22-2008, 01:57 AM
all hydraulic lines hate air bubbles 
some of the bubbles go up (to the master and it's fluid tank), some of them can't go up because they are trapped in different line bendings etc. So your main objective is to get rid of the air that can't go up. To do so, put one end of a rubber hose on the bleed screw, submerge another end in breack fluid. This will prevent air from "outside" getting back into the line. Then unsrew the bleeder, and start working on the brake pedal checking fluid level in master's container constantly untill the air stops coming from the submerged hose. Then tighten the bleeder. Do same for another wheel. After that check your brakes. Be carefull. I know this is not how things are described in books, but when there's noone to help and you need the car fast - this trick works fine. Did it three times on two different cars. But if you are not well experienced to determine whether the brakes are working OK or not, don't do it )
some of the bubbles go up (to the master and it's fluid tank), some of them can't go up because they are trapped in different line bendings etc. So your main objective is to get rid of the air that can't go up. To do so, put one end of a rubber hose on the bleed screw, submerge another end in breack fluid. This will prevent air from "outside" getting back into the line. Then unsrew the bleeder, and start working on the brake pedal checking fluid level in master's container constantly untill the air stops coming from the submerged hose. Then tighten the bleeder. Do same for another wheel. After that check your brakes. Be carefull. I know this is not how things are described in books, but when there's noone to help and you need the car fast - this trick works fine. Did it three times on two different cars. But if you are not well experienced to determine whether the brakes are working OK or not, don't do it )
