I'm looking into buying a new wiring harness for my F3 and doing the rewiring myself. I have done some wiring in the past but never a total rewire job on a vehicle. I'm looking for some advice in this area. The truck is my daily driver and I have a week to do it. Is this even possible?

 

It's possible. Several on here (including me) have used the EZ Wire kit. Others have used AutoLoc, Ron Francis, Painless, and the OEM style sold by several of the vendors who are listed on the site. The EZ is one of the most economical while the RF and Painless usually are the more expensive. The EZ Wiring site is Home

 

Thanks for the website. I was looking at a kit that Speedway offers but I wasn't sure what company or harness was best to use. Do the kits come with instructions or schematics/drawings?

 

Hi Brian! Great idea/upgrade! I guess anything is possible, But I'd watch out for Murphy..
What engine/trans are you using? A 1 wire Altenator would sure make things easier,..can you mount one or do you already have one? If you take your time and go thru each circuit carefully, anticipating any shortfalls, gather up everything you think you may need, you should be able to complete the job....wait until you are real sure you can get it done, then jump-in! Are you 6v now? Keep an eye out for Murphy..Good Luck!

 

try to catch a vendor @ a show (usually the bigger ones) and you can save some money on maybe a show special and enjoy the day too. I personally used the EZ and worked out great and has been easy to troubleshoot with any problems that I have had.

 

My truck has the original 239 flattie with 4 speed trans. Right now I'm running the normal 6 volt neg. ground but I have most everything I need for the conversion to 12 volt including the bracket and the one wire alternator. I've been looking around on the internet for a wiring diagram for my truck. The best I can find is from
Flathead Electrical Wiring Diagrams

I'm hoping I can spot Murphy before he gets me!

 

The EZ wire harness comes with a wiring diagram and each wire is color coded and labled right on the wire every 6". The big thing is to not become overwelmed by the shear number of wires attached to the fuse panel, there are wires and circuits available that you are unlikely to need unless you have/will added tons of electrical accessories. Separate out the wires you need from those you don't (don't cut them off, roll them up in a neat bundle and tape together, tuck up under dash for later use, or use a tool to release the connector attached to the wire in the fuse block and remove the wire and connector assembly and store for future use) and then subdivide the ones you need by where they end up i.e. engine, front end, rear end, dashboard. After you mount the fuseblock, route one of the bundles out to where they go and make your connections on those wires only. Doing one bundle at a time makes it easier to do since you are dealing with only a few wires and they are all going to the same area. It's also much easier if you replace your dash switches with new ones from EZ Wire as well, their prices are much more reasonable than any other source, and the switch connections will match the harness, simplifying the hookup.
By the way, it may have just been a slip, but your stock electrical system is 6V POSITIVE ground, your new system will be hooked up 12V NEGATIVE ground.

 

Planning, planning, planning makes for a easier job when you get started. I must have planned mine over and over in my head before I got into it. (Two months later) I used the Painless fuse block and purchased my wire and connectors. I used relays for the fans and headlights. Replaced all gauges and bulb pig tails for the running lights. Engine grounds were also changed. I know for me I started the wiring but that got me into other things since I had the seat out and carpeting, but that's what it all about. I feel better knowing where everthing goes. It was a good feeling to first crank it over and it started and was charging. Relays are great! Enjoy and have fun. Take many breaks to rethink before you cut.

 

I used an EZ harness on my 60.
I thought the notes were a bit slim, but they did have diagrams for light switch and ignition switch. It was my first try at a full electrical replacement.
I was concerned about the dash, but knew I could live without a fuel gauge, battery/charge gauge, and dash lights for a while.

Can't say much about the 6 volt compared to the 12 volt, but I was able to get it done with only minor problems that I was able to fix after a 2nd try.

The labeling of the wires was a great touch. The multi colors made running and finding the proper wire back easy also.

One of my downfalls was doing it over the winter. I pulled the old wire out in early winter, and did not get around to finishing it till spring time. Memory or lack of memory regarding the old wiring slowed me down once I was ready to get it done.

I also went with a new ignition switch and light switch from EZ. I ended up using the original Ford ignition switch. I am using the GM light switch for now (the included diagram made wiring it up pretty simple). I do want to go back to using an original 60 light switch, but for now I have a legal, running machine.

 

You're right. I remember the first time I saw the truck I thought the PO hooked it up wrong. He just kinda laughed and explained it to me. Good catch. Thanks.

I have about a month and a half to get ready for this. Thanks for all the posts. I think I'll go ahead and order the kit and get everything planned and mapped out so things will go a bit more smoothly when the time comes to get going. I gotta be honest though. I've worked with wiring a little (electrician for 4 years after highschool) but this seems like a lot but I feel good about it. I'm ready to get started now. Too bad I still gotta wait.

 

Low voltage DC is similar to but easier than AC to wire. You probably already have a good pair of staking pliers to stake the solderless connectors on the ends. It's a good idea to cover the connection with heat shrink tubing any place where they will be exposed to weather. A miniature Butane pocket torch with a catalytic heating tip is a real useful tool for shrinking the tubing and to do an occasional soldered connection. I have a Weller kit and find it quite handy!

 

I do have the pliers and connectors and all that good stuff. I don't have the heat shrink tubing or the torch. I'll go ahead and get that stuff too before I start. Thanks.