Carburator Question(please help)
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
OK Ed, I cleaned it out with carb cleaner. I was surprised at how dirty it was. Anyway, when I go to measure the float level, do I measure at the end of the float or back toward the needle and seat? Since they are rectangular shaped, it makes a big difference as to the level. Do they BOTH set at the same level? As soon as I get the floats set I'm ready to put it back together 
I cleaned up the .395's and reinstalled them in the rear, I put the .398's in the front. I think I will change the metering rods to the 7347's since my 7147's are a little worn looking? What do ya think? 
I cleaned up the .395's and reinstalled them in the rear, I put the .398's in the front. I think I will change the metering rods to the 7347's since my 7147's are a little worn looking? What do ya think? 
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 38
From: Valley Center, California
Metering Rods on AFBs
A word of caution on AFB Metering Rod changes and the "Strip Kit". I'm referring to the #9625 (Ford) and #9627 (GM) Versions.
The two Step Rod diameters are NOT linear to each other. This means if you change Rods a step leaner, it doesn't necessarily mean that both the low and high vacuum settings lean out the same amount - They probably don't.
As the Rods go richer, the Wide Open Diameters add fuel fairly evenly. The low-Vacuum settings DIFFER a BUNCH.
So you need to keep an eye on what happens to both conditions.
I have an Excel (2003) spreadsheet with a graph that illustrates the Low/High fuel flow for both the "Strip Kit" combos or ALL part numbers if you want them.
If you would like to have it, send me a private message with your e-mail address and I will send it to you. If you have a '51-'52 you gotta pay.... just kidding
Dawg-a-saurus
The two Step Rod diameters are NOT linear to each other. This means if you change Rods a step leaner, it doesn't necessarily mean that both the low and high vacuum settings lean out the same amount - They probably don't.
As the Rods go richer, the Wide Open Diameters add fuel fairly evenly. The low-Vacuum settings DIFFER a BUNCH.
So you need to keep an eye on what happens to both conditions.
I have an Excel (2003) spreadsheet with a graph that illustrates the Low/High fuel flow for both the "Strip Kit" combos or ALL part numbers if you want them.
If you would like to have it, send me a private message with your e-mail address and I will send it to you. If you have a '51-'52 you gotta pay.... just kidding
Dawg-a-saurus
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,344
Likes: 11
From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Terry, it's hard to tell if the meter rods are worn. More than likely they are not especially when your carb isn't that old. Flip the top of the carb upside down and place a 5/16" drill between the float and carb, not near the needle, more like the middle. Both should be the same measurement. DO NOT PUT THE 7347'S IN. You will be changing the carb function drastically by putting different metering rods. You can put the same one in 7147, the 7047, make it a bit more richer. So 7347 would lean it out more. I think you'll be fine with the .398 jets. You can also change the jets with the carb still on the engine. As far as a gasket, either work. I prefer the open port ones, but either work as long the gasket doesn obstruct the butterflies (plates opening on carb bottom).
OK Ed, I'm goin to listen to you. Even though I dont see much of a difference in them jets and all. I'm putting the .395's in the rear and .398's in the front with the original metering rods and springs. We'll see what happens, but I sure dont see much difference in them jets than the .400's. I have the open gasket for the carb base.
Thanks guys for all the help
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
You won't see a difference in jets Terry, Trust, the slight measurement difference will make a big difference on how the carb is running. Once you get the jetting close, then we can fool with the metering rods and springs. Maybe eman can send me a copy of the excel sheet he's got. I'm interested in seeing what he has. Since I have a 56, I won't have to pay for a copy of it. LOL.....
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
Ed is right on target. Once you get the tough part done, which is the jets, then you can experiment with the rods.
I would like to clarify the choice on the springs though. They are chosen according to your engine's vacuum at idle. You will need to measure this with a vacuum gauge and somebody will need to dig out their edlebrock manual to tell you the appropriate color sping for your engine. The color of the spring indicates its strength. Higher vacuum needs a stronger spring to allow the rods to ride at the correct height. When you accellerate, your vacuum drops, thus allowing the rods to raise. Since the rods are tapered, more fuel flows when the vacuum drops.
As far as the thermostat goes, I recommend a 190*, but lets not mess with that until you get the carb running like it needs to. Note that you may need to do trial and error runs for a week or two until you find the right rods for your application. Good luck, Jag
I would like to clarify the choice on the springs though. They are chosen according to your engine's vacuum at idle. You will need to measure this with a vacuum gauge and somebody will need to dig out their edlebrock manual to tell you the appropriate color sping for your engine. The color of the spring indicates its strength. Higher vacuum needs a stronger spring to allow the rods to ride at the correct height. When you accellerate, your vacuum drops, thus allowing the rods to raise. Since the rods are tapered, more fuel flows when the vacuum drops.
As far as the thermostat goes, I recommend a 190*, but lets not mess with that until you get the carb running like it needs to. Note that you may need to do trial and error runs for a week or two until you find the right rods for your application. Good luck, Jag
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,344
Likes: 11
From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Thanks everyone! eman sent me ALOT to chew on, and I'll be learning alot from it. So far I've just changed the primary jets. As suggested my the experts (Imlowr2 and eman) I have to get the radiator back together before I can even start it so it will probably Saturday before I get to that point, but I'm goin to check fuel PSI first and check my advance springs in the HEI. I'm goin to put the stock metering rods and springs back in and see if I did any good or harm?
Thanks again for all the help and I'll definately keep ya posted
Thanks again for all the help and I'll definately keep ya posted
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
As far as PSI of fuel, you should not have more than 6 lbs of fuel pressure for the AFB or Edelbrock. If your running a hi performance fuel pump that pushes a high volume of fuel, you may need to add a regulator to bring the pressure down. Edelbrocks don't like hi pressure pumps.
Eman- thanks for the excel sheet. Wow! very imformative. The only part that scares me is, the fact I can read them and understand them.... LOL... Thanks again for the info. Very helpful.
Eman- thanks for the excel sheet. Wow! very imformative. The only part that scares me is, the fact I can read them and understand them.... LOL... Thanks again for the info. Very helpful.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,344
Likes: 11
From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Hey Ed, I checked my PSI and it's about 5, maybe 6. I have a Carter electric fuel pump that was recommended to work with this carb from JEGS. I got the carb back together. I had some dirt in the thing cause when I tried to blow through the fuel inlet with the floats hanging down it barely let anything through. I blew some carb cleaner through it and then tried it MUCH BETTER.
The only thing I had a problem with on the adjustments eman sent me was the float hang down level. The chart showed 3/8" at the END of the float between the gasket and the float, BUT it also showed a measurement of 15/16" of the float hanging down from the gasket on the bottom of the top of the carb.
The thing is I got the 3/8" with float in the up position, but I could not get the 15/16" measurement. It was about 1 1/4" or so? I didnt think that was as important as the top float measurement? What do yall think? I made alot of progress on the radiator stuff tonight, and most likely Saturday will be able to start it up and try out the carb.
The only thing I had a problem with on the adjustments eman sent me was the float hang down level. The chart showed 3/8" at the END of the float between the gasket and the float, BUT it also showed a measurement of 15/16" of the float hanging down from the gasket on the bottom of the top of the carb.
The thing is I got the 3/8" with float in the up position, but I could not get the 15/16" measurement. It was about 1 1/4" or so? I didnt think that was as important as the top float measurement? What do yall think? I made alot of progress on the radiator stuff tonight, and most likely Saturday will be able to start it up and try out the carb.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,344
Likes: 11
From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Checked my MPG's
Hey Ed, and the rest of you great carb guys, I checked my gas mileage and I got almost 4 more MPG's I know that dont sound like much, but when you're used to getting 10 MPG's, another 4 is GREAT!!! It runs great out on the road too I checked this in town, and I figure I might even get another one or two on the road.
THANKS!!
I know that dont sound like much, but when you're used to getting 10 MPG's, another 4 is GREAT!!! It runs great out on the road too I checked this in town, and I figure I might even get another one or two on the road.THANKS!!