I have a 1988 F-150 with a 5.0/302, it's a brand new motor, and was broke in correctly. I just don't have enough power. I have a glasspack on right now, but I plan to do a full exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers, and a K&N Filter Charger system. What size pipe would you reccommend that I run? What about headers, is there a downside to them, what brand is good? What is other good, but fairly inexpensive ways to get more power and torque? It's a 5-speed.
Thanx,
-Shawn

 

Your rear end gear ratio also has alot to do with how much power you have. More than likely you have the same gears I do right now. 3.08's. My truck is extremely under-powered for what all I have done to it.

I have, an MSD TFI-IV coil (will upgrade to the box soon), Summit Shorty truck headers, flowmaster 2 chamber single in / dual out muffler, Motorsport 9mm plug wires, K&N filter. And like I said mine is underpowered. But, I will be changing my rear gears out to 3.55's soon as well. So that will help me in the oomph dept.


1988 F-150 Custom to XLT Lariat conversion, 5.0 EFI (formerly 300 I6), 5-speed M5OD, 3.08 rear gears (will be upgraded to 3.55's), Summit headers, Flowmaster muffler W/ dual 3.5" tips 24" long. Caution Customizing in progress, Watch for flying tools & Parts!

 

Are you running EFI? You may need to switch to MAF. Headers will definitely help any situation. I run Thorley Tri-Y full length headers that collect to 2.25". The headers come with a collector that reduces to 2", but I built a true dual exhaust and kept the pipe 2.25 all the way back. I put on two new cats from DynoMax and Flowmaster 50 series muffler, sounds great and runs terrific. You'll definitely feel the difference with 3.55s or 3.89s in the rear also, if you can afford to go with limited slip, add it too. The downside to headers is they can warp easier than your stock manifold and cause exhaust leaks. You need to make sure you get good quality headers with good quality gaskets. They will also burn out faster than a stock manifold unless you get them coated first.

Other mods to consider are ignition: I would go with an MSD box, with MSD wires, and an MSD distributor. The adjustable timing box is really nice also if you do any towing. I run my ignition at about 14-15 unless I'm towing, then I drop it to around 7 degrees, all from the comfort of my cab.

The K&N is a definite plus. You may want to consider going to Mass Air Flow also. I'm not that familiar with EFI, but I read a lot of posts about changine to Mass Air. Change your computer chip also. The chips are originally built for the masses and to meet stringent emmissions. They can be re-programmed to get another 10-20% power gain matched to your setup.

A decent cam with the right ratio rocker arms and a good set of heads will probably buy you the biggest hp gain, but it will also cost the most.

Good luck,

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

I have 94 F-150/5.0L. I put a K&N cone filter, and duel exhaust 2.25(no cats) with cherry bomb glasspacks. It hauls pretty good now. Now i just have to find my missing problem*sigh*

 

Slikness,
Do you know anything about changing EFI to MAF. How hard is it? How much does it cost? Do you know where I can find articles on doing it? Thanx.
-Shawn-

 

The swap to Mass air, is a very good idea, but it's a costly conversion. It can be anywhere from $600-up. The swap itself yield's no more power, but it is required for alot of serious mods. Such as a hotter cam, superchargers, etc etc. Basically all that is included is: wiring harness, MAF sensor, computer, and a few minor things. You may be able to pull a system off of a 1994-newer 302 or 351 motors.

 

I feel the same way about my 85, My pickup ain't got no pickup! I could give a damn about high speed in this truck, I want umph on the low end. How in the hell do you tell what gears you have? I can't read the plate inside the door says it a "T", transmission, but what about the rear?


2000 F150 Supercab Lariat, 5.4, K&N drop-in, pulled silencer tube.

1985 F150, 302 EFI, K&N, air box mod, true dual Dynomax Super Turbos. Looking for more stuff to fit my engine! Where is it?!

 

How much do you want to spend? More poer=more money. Your 85, two barrel or four, got a cam? What have you got?
Rich

 

EFI on the '85, now that the exhaust is opened up, i'm looking at opening up the intake side. If I'm reading the boards correctly, the stock intakes are weezers. I'd love to do the GT40 shuffle, but I don't know if it'll all fit together. Doing the heads would be cool also. If I'm reading the boards correctly, the stock intakes are weezers.

2000 F150 Supercab Lariat, 5.4, K&N drop-in, pulled silencer tube.

1985 F150, 302 EFI, K&N, air box mod, true dual Dynomax Super Turbos. Looking for stuff to fit my engine!!

 

hey hotrodford-88. I know that this has nothing to do with this post but i noticed that you have done a 300 to 302 EFI swap, and well i plan on doing this and I really need some pointers.

 

I can tell you from experience that you will need, Radiator, frame mounts for 302 engine, Flywheel or Flexplate depending on your application. Computer & wiring harness (preferably from sametruck the engine comes from!) Sitck within one year up or down from your truck. I used a 91 model wiring harness and that really screwed things up! Headlights cae on with the fuel pump when you would turn the key on! Also you will need the front half of the exhaust system. At this time I would recommend dropping some money for a set of good shorty headers for a truck as the mustang shorty's won't fit without extensive pipe work to the front half of the exhaust.

If there's anything else you need fell free to email me.
hotrodford_88(No Email Addresses In Posts!)



1988 F-150, SWB, 5.0 EFI (formerly 4.9 EFI), M5OD 5 speed, 3.08 gears, Summit shorty truck headers, Custom built Flowmaster exhaust system. Force 4 LP6000 lightbar, Federal signal PA-300 100 watt siren, Icom IC-V100 50 watt mobile radio.
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1965 F-100 (just purchased 1/18/01), SWB, 390, C-6 auto. Dual exhaust, Not much else to do to it.

Can see both below.

[link:www.geocities.com/hotrodford_88/|Hotrodford_88's Webpage]

 

My 88 F150 is an original Lariat, and it came original with the 3.55 rear. To ID the rearend, look for a tag bolted onto the cover with a cover bolt. If I remember correctly, it has a number like 3 55 and something else, that is the ratio. If there is a L in the space, then it has the Trac Lok differential (3L55).




88 F-150 4X4 w/5.0 EFI 5 spd
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4