I have an '02 Ranger 2WD 4.0 SOHC (207HP).

Anyone towed heavy loads with a similar set up?


I have 2 scenarios.

FIRST -

Towing a boat around 3500lbs with Surge brakes. I used to tow this with my Chevy Astro's (91 and 95) with a lesser HP (190) 4.3 v6. It was a little sluggish but acceptable. This is however a much bigger fooprint car than a Ranger. Just looking for input.


SECOND -

Towing a 5000 lb 23 foot Travel trailer. Electric brakes, with controller. I currently tow this with my Expy with no issues. I know my Ranger is rated for like 5800 lbs, but this Travel Trailer seems a bit much. However, I may dump the Expy and need the ranger to pick up the slack for a few short trips of 250 miles or less.

Thought? Opinions? Experiences?

 

Look in my gallery you will see I tow a 24' Fifth Wheel with a 1999, 4.0, OHV. 160 hp. It's a surprisingly comfortable tow. 4060 lbs dry. so probably a little over 5000 when I have it packed for the season.

I also scale in regularly with 3-3500 lbs on a utility trailer (gross trailer weight with cargo) at the scrap yard. Forget it's there until braking. lol.

I know the SOHC will rev higher to do the same job, as it develops it's power there.

 

I have a boat that weighs about 5K including the trailer and gear, 2 axles, hydraulic disc brakes. I use the Ranger to move it a mile or so to and from the ramp. I would not want to do any more than that with it. Launching it on a wet ramp is an adventure too, even with 4wd.

 

I see your in OH. so I assume you'll be towing mostly in flat country????

Do you have the Ford factory tow package on your Ranger???? If not, imo you'll want to install it before towing the 5k trailer any distance.
It includes important things like a tranny cooler( & in your area I'd consider a thermostatically controlled one, so you don't get over cooling in winter), heavier springs, shocks, larger tires, class-3 frame mounted hitch, ect, all of which you can make good use of, to make a safe uneventful tow.

Do you plan on using a full synthetic crankase lube???? You could make good use of that as well imo

Also maybe consider a thermostatically controlled engine oil cooler, if the 5K load is going to be towed on the 250 mile trip, as the engine & is going to be worked at or close to it's max rating.

I'd also seriously consider the "cushioned" ball mount, by Convert-A-Ball, you & your driveline will appreciate how it'll round off a tows jerks & jars.
I've used one for the past 8 years & it works as advertised & is holding up well.

With that load, make sure your brakes are in good order & if you haven't already done it, flush the brake system with Motorcraft PM-1 Dot-3 brake fluid, cause your gonna need all the brakes you can muster, to stop your 5K load at speed & in case your trailers surge brakes lay down on you!!!!

Just some more tow thoughts for pondering.

 

Great replies, exactly what I needed.

my Ranger does NOT have a factory Tow Package. At least I assume it doesnt, currently doesnt have a hitch. (about to order one).

I would not dream of towing the camper without a tranny cooler, but I have never heard of a " thermostatically controlled one " so I will have to look into that.

Thanks again for the good info.

 

B&M sells some plate type coolers that are very efficient, and are internally thermostatically controlled, though overcooling a tranny will not usually have a significant impact.

 

I've pulled 5,000 pound's with a 4x4 ranger with the 4.0 sohc and manual tranny, you should be just fine.

 

Mine has the full tow package and did NOT come with hitch. Just step bumper with ball mount, flat 4 wiring, and full trailer wiring prep. look for the factory tranny cooler behind the grille to the passenger side right in front of the radiator.

 

Of the 238k on my 97 ranger probably 100k of it is with a 15 haul canoe trialer that comes in about 3,000lbs. I have hauled from tampa, fl to the boundary water of of mn. Salt lake city utah, houston tx, niagra fall and everywhere in between.

Never had any issue on the road. Truck handled it well all in all. alot of my friends in the buis were inpressed with the little trucks pulling capacity. Especially when the bed of the truck was loaded to the hilt as well. I would imagine that the newer 200+ hp trucks would do even better.

Just slap on a good class 3 reciever, a 7 pin harness since you have trailer brakes and a tranny cooler. I would recomend servicing the tranny and rear axle fluids atleast once a year if towing alot. I have 238K on my 5r55e under those conditions and am just now starting to get the typical firm shift between 2nd and 3rd gears.

 

I would also recomend that run synthetics in the tranny and rear diff as well as the engine. Less friction means less heat, less wear on part's, should even run a little cooler. I run mobil 1 in the engine and royal purplr in the rest of the drive train, work awesome. However, there's a lot of good synthetics out there to choose from, like aimsoil, red line and castrol, even motorcraft has a full synthetic.

 

i have to ask what gears you have before i would say to tow that much?? i know the 4.0 usually got better then the 4 cylinders but if you dont have at least 373s your gonna be mad trying to pull that much weight expecially without 4x4.

 

I will agree with you on th3.73 and up gearing. However 4wd lowers you towing capacity usually a 200-400lbs due to the added wieght of the drive train. It goes against you GVWR rating. Yes in some applications of towing across sand it can help but on the road it is usually a negative.

 

The 2wd didn't get the 3.73s stock. Tow package gets 3.55's. at least in 1999s manual. Though I agree I would love a 3.73 or 4.10, the 3.55 does me well.

 

3.55 wouldnt be as bad but i know that 2x4 get crappy gears thats why i said 4x4 is better for towing. they usually get 3.55 or better.

 

Castrol is not a synthetic. It is a hydrocracked dino oil. They call it synthetic because they can get away with it.