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I need some help converting my single master cylinder on my 66 F100 to a dual master cylinder. What is involved and what do I need to do it? I keep having visions of the total brake loss that I had several years ago on my 65 stepside when I blew a brake hose. Had to hit the ditch and tore the hell out of the front end!
I need some help converting my single master cylinder on my 66 F100 to a dual master cylinder. What is involved and what do I need to do it? I keep having visions of the total brake loss that I had several years ago on my 65 stepside when I blew a brake hose. Had to hit the ditch and tore the hell out of the front end!
Personally I would go for the disk brake swap but if that is out of the cards the master cylinder from a 67-72 F-100 should work as those still had drum brakes all the way around. It would bolt right up to your fire wall. I think you just run one set of lines to the front brakes and the other to the rear, I dont think there is a proportioning valve on those, but I am not positive. You would also need to either Tee in your current brake light switch or fab one up in the cab. I would think it is a pretty easy and straight forward swap. Just like a disk swap it might be just as easy to buy a 67-72 as a donor truck to get everything, even power steering if you have not done that yet. Then sell what you dont need to get your money back.
See the photos on my disc swap page. You may have to shorten the piston rod for the master cylinder. I also discuss the brake light switch options. f100discs
If you search this forum for "mustang master cylinder" you may find that a Mustang one will bolt on without having to shorten the rod. Just make certain you use one for a 4 wheel drum application and not discs. You don't need a proportioning valve if you aren't going to discs. I agree, this is one alteration that everyone should perform.
Hope this isn't a silly question... would it be the same process on a 64? I've read that I can't swap to power steering and such like you can on a 66. Also, can I put disc brakes on my 64?
FWIW- if you have the donor truck handy you can swap out the clutch and brake pedal assbly.in the cab also. it's a matter of 4 bolts, then you wont have to worry about shortening the rod. when i converted mine i swapped out of a 76 and it all bolted right in. and i also had the brake switch in the cab. Dutch
FWIW- if you have the donor truck handy you can swap out the clutch and brake pedal assbly.in the cab also. it's a matter of 4 bolts, then you wont have to worry about shortening the rod. when i converted mine i swapped out of a 76 and it all bolted right in. and i also had the brake switch in the cab. Dutch
Wow...why didn't I think of that?
I will add that to my disc brake how-to page next time I'm in there updating!
My wife would flip out if I brought a donor truck home. I think I will go the mustang route. Sounds like the brake lines are going to be the hard part. Too bad there is not a kit avalible. Thanks for all of the advise !
FWIW- if you have the donor truck handy you can swap out the clutch and brake pedal assbly.in the cab also. it's a matter of 4 bolts, then you wont have to worry about shortening the rod. when i converted mine i swapped out of a 76 and it all bolted right in. and i also had the brake switch in the cab. Dutch
I tried to swap pedal Assembly's when I did the disk brake swap from a 73 donor truck. I am not sure what is different with my 73 and my 65 but there is no way that swap was going to work. The bolt holes on the fire wall lined up correctly but the holes up by the gauge cluster were no where near close enough to make work. I ended up just modify the rod and drilling a new hole on my pedal. You could even see it when the two brakets were sitting next to each other on the floor.
As far as kits go for the older trucks making and bending brake lines a monkey can do. All you need is a double flare tool kit, small tubing cutter, a decent tubing bender, and a round jewelers file. The key to making good double flares is to clean up the rough edges and material left behind from cutting the tube. There are a few how to's written by Carcraft and several other sites. Just google "making brake lines" and you'll see a bunch of sites pop up with pictures. Very handy for the first time attempting to make them. As a word of advise I always use a length of wire coat hanger to get the bends where I want them then transfer it over to the actual line. Once the bends are made then add the fittings and flares.
When i did the stearing column from the 76 now that Bigblock has mentioned it there was a complication on connecting at the bezel. if i remember correctly i had to make two small cuts behind the dash (dremil drill)so the column would lift up to the dash. then i had to make two spacers about 3/8 of an inch long to bolt it solid to the dash as the 76 column did not fit well. the bolt holes lined right up. i'm sure if a person wanted to go through the work of removing the mounting bracket from the 66 and welding it to the upgrade it would prolly bolt right up. if i would have had my wire feed welder at the time i'm almost sure thats what i would have done. the configuration with the spacers isn't even noticable unless you're looking for it. Dutch