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on my 97 f250 7.3 power stroke, under what I will call the engine cap/hat.. the big cover over the center of the engine, which has the 7.3 Turbo Diesel insignia stamped in it...... that is a part right behind where the alternator would be that looks real close to a starter solenoid...... what is this part, it has 4 wires connected to it... two big (one is black/yellow) and the other I
believe is black/orange......and then there are two smaller wires attached to it also.... I'm confused what this is .... I do see the starter solenoid mounted on the passenger side inner fender..... the reason I am asking is I hear it make a noticeable 'click' when I turn the key on; to just before the starter would kick in..... is this normal? what is this part? I am questioning it because I notice the volt meter drop about a full point, from 10 to 9 (or so), when I turn the key..... is this normal?
I'm still trying to diagnose an electrical problem I am having upon engine startup. I am taking the alternator to get it tested it tomorrow, and thought I would replace the part in question (above) at the same time.
Sounds like the glow plug relay. Normal for it to click and cause the volt meter to drop. It's sending power to the glow plugs and will do so for about 90 seconds. If you wait about that long before starting you will see the volt meter jump back up.
Yes that is the Glow Plug relay and it sounds fine. It turns on the GP's for 90 seconds or less depending on the temp. What problems are you having? This place can fix problems faster than a technician that is standing over the truck.
my problem is when I start the truck cold (97 f250 7.3 power stroke), on certain occassions, about 80% of the time, it runs on all 8 for about 30sec to 1 minute, the voltmeter reads about 10, then the check engine light comes on and at the same time, the truck sounds like it is running on 4 or 6 cylinders or ? so I wait about 1/2 minutes, try it again, and it will do it again, and then I try it again, and keep my fingers crossed. if it keeps running for about 1-2 minutes the voltmeter gradually moves up to 12.8 or so and it will run fine from there.......I have replaced the batteries (what cold cranking amp rating should I have on these batteries),... and I've replaced the alternator (I am taking it down to get it tested this morning).....
I had this electrical problem diagnosed by Ford about 4 months ago and they said they 'found high resistance in #2 and #4 injectors and glow plugs'. does what you are saying and what Ford says sound like the same thing?
what should I replace first, the wiring for the injector under the valve cover and the two glow plugs at the same time? I removed the valve cover this past weekend, that was a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10 for me.... what is replacing the injectors and glow plugs, a 4, an 8? I've ordered a repair manual.
I had this electrical problem diagnosed by Ford about 4 months ago and they said they 'found high resistance in #2 and #4 injectors and glow plugs'. does what you are saying and what Ford says sound like the same thing?
what should I replace first, the wiring for the injector under the valve cover and the two glow plugs at the same time? I removed the valve cover this past weekend, that was a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10 for me.... what is replacing the injectors and glow plugs, a 4, an 8? I've ordered a repair manual.
Yes what Ford said and we are talking line up. With the valve cover off you can use an ohm meter to test everything. Here is a post in how to test from the connector into the VC's. Use your ohm meter to test the wiring, GP's and injector magnets as well. The resistance values listed in the post should come from the Glow plug or the injector magnets themselves and the wiring should have very little resistance https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...=1#post5286089
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