You've probably already checked this, but how is your speedometer working?

Might be best to scan for fault codes at this point.

 

Speedo works flawlessly. How do I get it to flash me? I doubt a T-shirt would work

 

This is what I used to scan my dads GMC, the method should work for any OBD1 vehicle (which yours is). I made the connection and turned on the ignition and it started flashing the codes, in a repeating sequence. Each code was flashed 3 times. Have a pencil and pad of paper handy.

 

I don't thinks so it might but the pins in the diagnostic link weren't standardised untill OBDII. For OBDI scaners there are a bunch of cards that adapt the pins in the conector to the scaner.

 

On second thought I don't think ther would be more that two pins since thers only the trans. Oh waint I got ABS too dam well I'll go see what I can figure out.

 

Well I cant seem to locate the diagnostic port. but I did figure out why my brake controller was always on. I cut the signal and out put wires and the light stayed on untill I cut the ground.

 

Theres some diagrams and a photo near the top of this page that may help. If it wasn't for the photo of the port, I would have never found it.

ALDL OBD1 OBD cable OBDI OBD2 engine codes

 

I found the conector its in the engine compartment never figured out how to make it blink but I cleaned the ground next to it that i think is for the TCU and it hasn't acted up yet but I didn't drive it much as I can't aford to drive any where I'm not being paid to be.

It seems to be pre OBDI? Its got an EEC diagnostic port.

 

Looking in my ATSG manual, I see the original ford diagnostic port. It has to pins on the top, and four on the bottom. There is also a self test imput (STI) wire seperate from the connector.

Does this sound like what you have? If so, I've got the proceedure here that allows you to run the self test using an analog volt meter.

 

Dam Now I'm starting to remeber this a bit. Yeah whats the procedure wich pin do I go to with the other lead of the meter? The i just count the sweeps right?

The only thing is I swear theres a way to get the od cancel light to blink.

Also I'm prety sure I fixed it when i cleaned the ground it hasn't acted up since.

 

If you have it working I wouldn't mess with it, but just in case I'll type what is in the manual for reference.

I'm not sure if the 1994s have a "check engine light" or if they just use the OD light to flash the codes, but this procedure says that the check engine light will be used to flash the codes. I'm guessing the voltmeter will sweep at the same time.

To prep for code scan,

turn all accessories off (lights, blower, A/C, etc.)

turn ignition off,

set the analog volt meter to 15VDC range,

connect the VOM from the battery + terminal to the self test output pin of the large self test connector (this will be the lower left of center pin on the connector),

connect timing light (????? guessing you can skip this),

hold the throttle at WOT (they say do this for 7.3L engines, no distinction between powerstrokes or IDIs, hope it doesn''t matter),

turn ignition on,

jumper a wire from the Self Test Input (this is the single wire on its own) to the signal return on the large connector (top right - remember, two pins on the top, 4 on the bottom),

record service codes.



Each code will have 2 digits. 3 flashes with a 1/2 second pause between flashes, for example means number 3. There is a pause of 2 seconds between digits, and a pause of 4 seconds between codes.

Apparently there are types of codes. Service codes, and continuous memory codes, there will be a signal that separates the two types. A 6 second pause, one flash, and then another 6 second pause, then the CMCs should flash (if there are any).

You confused yet!?lol

 

Not realy had a bit of training from ford kinda giving me flash backs.

Thanks

Now to find a analog meter. Maybe a musem would have one.

 

Well my trans started acting up again, my best guess is i have either corosion in my conector on the FLPS conector or where the wires had been pired when the original was tested and replaced so I'm planing on cleaning the conector and rewiring it for starters. Even if it dont fix it it will prevent future problems.

 

Its beginning to sound like what my dad's truck is doing (GMC). I routed a seperate ground with a jumper strait to the battery, but since its only alligator clips it still acts up every now and then (hard shifting). I don't know where the ground is located for the PCM in your truck, but the transmission electronics do not ground through the case, so there must be a ground wire somewhere.

 

Te pcm grounds to the fender well right by the DLC. Man its been a bad couple of weeks for E4ODs on this forum. We had a recall on Internationals with the eaton ultarshifts where we had to re rout the ground for the TCM from the frame to the batteries. I'll probly try that next.