I may be getting the tuner sooner than I expected, even though "baby got new shoes" this week ($$$ x 6 - DRW) and looking for what to expect to go through if I go DP Tuner. From perusing their website, it looks like I would either have to send in my PCM or purchase a refurbished unit from them ($50 or $325). Then I would need to purchase a F5 module for selecting the tunes ($199). Finally need to purchase tunes, typically at $45 and then install the stuff. Since I don't have any guages, they recommended Quadzilla monitor or a BD monitor, I kinda like the Quadzilla. Of course I could go with an A-Pillar set of analog gauges but I think there is more functionality to the digital. It also seems that if I want a new tune, I need to remove the PCM from my truck and send it back to DP for the tune.

Don't get me wrong, I am not complaining about any of this, just trying to be sure I know what to expect. Will cost a little more than an Edge or SCT and will get more personal attention to what I want. Like I said, I kinda like the Quadzilla monitor anyway, but don't like their tuners. I may offset the cost difference by doing the Wix filter instead of the AFE Stage II and still keep with the MBRP 5" exhaust.

The tunes recommended were stock, 60T, 80E and 120P. Any other suggestions or "tweaks" to these would be appreciated.

2001 F350 Lariat, Crew, DRW. Daily driver of 80 miles roundtrip daily of all Indiana state highway (60 MPH with couple 35 and 45 towns). Looking for fuel economy (getting 18-19 MPG summer), some fun trompin and an occasional truck sled pull (only done one so far, 2nd place, 296').

Thanks for the help as I would not of looked at DP Tuner before finding FTE.

 

You can decide what you want to do. Lets say you want just 1 tune. In that case, you get the PCM code and tell him. At that point, you can buy that one tune for $75 and have him send you a PCM and when you install his, you send your's to him. The other way is to have him program your PCM by sending it to him. Now, if you want more than 1 tune, you buy the F5 chip and go along with the tunes you want and have him load them on your chip. I wouldn't do both since it is worthless. Do one or the other.

As to what tunes to get, I would suggest talking to Jody and he can help you make up your mind.

 

you shouldn't need a PCM onlt chip and controller
to get more tunes you only have to send the chip back

 

I am going to do multiple tunes, so does this mean I only need the F5 chip and then purchase the tunes? Only other one I am considering at this time is the 140 Smoke, just for fun. I did see someone referring to changing the shift points and wondering about getting the OD to stay in until below 30MPH for the economy tune for the parts of my travel through small towns with 35MPH speed limits.

 

Best thing to do is fill out the questionaire on the DP site and then talk to Jody (the owner) on the phone and decide what route you want to take.

I do not run a DP Tuner but have talked to Jody on the phone a couple of times and he is a great guy. He'll get you lined out in no time and you'll be rolling smoke with the best of them.

 

one other tip. I would go with the analog gauges instead of the digital. From what I have been told the digital will jump around a lot making it hard to read. Hope this helps.

 

Yes. Unless you want to buy another one for me. . That F5 chip will accommodate 15 tunes and one "fall back" tune. Lets say your "switch" had a problem or you accidentally cut the wire, etc, etc, that is what it defaults to. Some people make it a "no start". You would not be able to get to that position since it is position "0" without shutting off your engine first. I put a stock tune there since I am not intersted in the "no start" option. I got an F5 with stock in "0", stock in "1" because he wanted it that way if I was going to have a high idle in "2", 40 Tow in "3" for higher altitudes and 60 Tow in "4" for regular towing and 80 Econo in "5". I am going to get a 140 agressive in "6" for blowing smoke at people who **** me off.

Shifting is changed depending on application. For towing, I don't think you want it to snap forward so the shift is gentler as opposed to the 80 Econo which is faster and the throttle response is faster too. I would get a BTS Valve Body to make it shift even better. Still, I'm not sure you want to be in OD at 30 mph.

 

i beg to differ. I run the BD Power X-Monitor digital monitor and love it. No big pod of guages to look around, no lights at eye level to bother me at night. Accurate to the degree. real boost numbers from the MAP line, Pyro from the probe, and tranny from the sender in the tranny. I install analog guges for customers at work, the shop is a banks dealer, and I just don't understand why anyone would want that big ol pod blocking their line o sight. Of course, to each his own. Barney

 

The quadzilla get's it's boost reading from map sensor electrically, not from the tube coming off of spyder intake, so it only reads to a certain boost. If you boost more than 23 its not going to read it, or if you use a OBN set at 22 thats all the gauge reads. Get a mechanical gauge.

 

The pillar pod blocks no more line of sight that the OEM pillar. Yur right to each his own.

 

OK, I have done some looking at digital gauges, but nowhere on analog so I may need a little guidance here. From what I know, there are two types of analog gauges, electrical and mechanical (which for which I'm not sure). That is, some get signals from a sensor pickup (like the digitals) and others use mechanical/pressure. My son's '77 F250 has mechanical oil pressure - no electrical at all. What am I looking at for the analog gauges, what one's to get and where to get them?

I have a handle on the tuner now, thanks to . Probably have some things to talk to Jodi about. I don't have much time to tinker, spend most of my time at work (right now for example ) so I end up paying someone to do the installs. The shop I go to is really slow right now so I thought I might do some of these things sooner to give him some work, hate to lose someone you trust!

 

This is the set I have and really like them.
DieselManor - ISSPRO Gauge Kits for Ford Powerstroke
DM was also great to deal with.I have the under dash .Looked at the pillar mount but just didnt think I would like the light there at night.The underdash is easy to see at a glance too.

 

If your gauge is getting the boost reference from the same place the PCM is, you will not have a backup mechanical setup that will tell you what is going on when the MAP sensor acts goofy.

Think of it this way, when you take it to a dealer, , they don't just believe what the PCM says about stuff like ICP. They actually check it with a gauge and/or swap lines from head to head if they do it right. IOW, if the electrical signal from the ICP is bad, the PCM has no way of knowing this.

So in turn, your high speed gauge may see the same thing depending on the signal source. As mentioned, to each his own.

 

I think I moved this so I will start a new post. I really thank everyone for their help.