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I have a '97 7.3 F250, when I start it, the voltmeter reads about 8.7 or so, it stays there for about 3 minutes until it gradually moves up to 12.+. Sometimes it doesn't make it to 12.+ and it sounds like it is running on 4 (at least less than 8) and the check engine light comes on. I had it diagnosed at Ford and they said one suspect area was under the valve cover for #2 and #4 as their diagnostic reading indicated high resistance in #2 and #4 injectors and glow plugs. Does this sound reasonable as a suspect area for my charging problem ?...... when the truck warms up, no problem.... (not usually, there was one time when I got 12 minutes from home and the voltage dropped and it sounded like it was running on 4 (at least less than eight) and the Check Engine light came on. The truck has 97000 miles on it.
Not used a lot. I have replaced the bttys and the alternator. Last question, is this a typical Ford piston numbering layout? Cylinders 1-4 on the passenger and 5-8 on the drivers side, such that only one valve cover needs to come off? If someone wants to phone me, here's my cell #, 719 338 8959. I have to tow with the truck on the 10th of May.
The discharge you see right after startup is normal, the Glow plugs (GP's) are still activated for up to 2 minutes. After the GP's have cycled off the charging system should show at least 13.2V. Have the alternator and batteries checked even if they are new. The batteries must be checked individually. Even a new alternator or battery can be bad right out of the box. If the charging system isn't up to snuff you won't get enough voltage to fire the injectors correctly. They operate on 110V DC.
The connector on top the alternator is another thing to look at. The connectors usually get loose or the wires get crushed from someone laying on the wires.
The cylinders are 1,3,5,7 on the passenger side 2,4,6,8 on the drivers side. 1 And 2 are at the front of the engine.
First of all, right, It's been nearly 6 more months have gone by. I haven't fixed it and am antzy everytime I take the truck out so it's time to fix it.
I'm not good at electrical testing stuff, and I would feel like I did a more
thorough job if I replaced questionable parts anyway. So I've decided to replace whatever parts I can under the valve cover. So I will buy a new under valve cover gasket, but is there actually a wire 'harness' under the valve cover for the #2 and #4 pistons that I can replace also? I assume it is just a plug in connect/disconnet situation?? I'm not going to replace the glow plugs on 2 and 4. Thanks for your help..
i would only replace a part that you know is bad rather than throwing parts at it. that will get very expensive on these trucks quick. you can check the Under the valve cover connections for burnt pins to see if that's your problem. to get the batteries tested you can take it to an automotive shop and ask them to test the batteries and load test the charging sytem for you.
i would only replace a part that you know is bad rather than throwing parts at it. that will get very expensive on these trucks quick. you can check the Under the valve cover connections for burnt pins to see if that's your problem. to get the batteries tested you can take it to an automotive shop and ask them to test the batteries and load test the charging sytem for you.
X2 and they must be tested separately. ooops, Cuda-Jim already told you.
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