Many of you probably remember my thread I wrote up on fixing the leak from where the dipstick enters the oil pan. I spent the money to buy the International repair kit, but it didn't last. I have an oil leak again. I have since taken it apart again and used the International RTV to seal it up again, but it still leaks , so I have been brainstorming, trying to figure the best way to fix this cause I know mine as well as others here are having this problem. I wanted to throw an idea out to everyone. I dont really see a need to take that apart ever, so I say weld it on and forget about trying to get a seal to work. You would still be able to take the tubing out but the actual mount on the oil pan would be welded to it. Anyone see a problem with this? I figured it would solve my problem once and for all.

Here is the first thread

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5213847

 

I dont see a problem with that. I just fixed mine about a month ago with some lock tight and RTV I had laying around the shop. No leak as of the last time I looked and that was about a week ago.

 

I wonder if you could use JB Weld ?

 

that oil leak prevents the pan from rusting there

 

There is no reason a permenant fix like that won't work, BUT I think that fitting is pot metal or aluminum. JB weld or some thing similair product success will pivot on oil free surfaces! A new pan comes with a new fitting so thats not a problem.

 

I remember that TJ sometime mention the seal all:
Seal-All 050307

give it a try.

 

Yep that might work as well!!

 

Wouldn't you know i spoke too soon. I looked under there when i got home and the darn thing is leaking again. I up to try anything.

 

Can anyone see a reason why I would regret welding it. In what case would I need to take that apart in the future cause I really cant think of one, so it would seem to be okay to weld it.

 

Casey I see no problem welding it I just don't think you will be able to because of dissimilar metals. Check it to be sure but I think the fitting isn't steel or cast.

 

You will not be able to weld it. The fitting/nut are aluminum and the pan is steel.


Be careful if you unbolt the dipstick tube bracket upstairs. I did and the fitting was undone at the pan and the inside part fell right inside. I tried to fish it out for 5 hours with no luck. I stuck a rubber expandable plug in the hole after I pulled the starter to make enough room to do so. The rubber plug with a bolt in the middle of it to tighten and thereby expand the rubber plug. Then I put the starter back in and it left no room for the plug to fall out, but it wouldn't have anyway. I snugged it up really good. I drove it like that for a year. Then I bought a downpipe/exhaust system, a 2" body lift kit, an add-a-leaf spring for the front and a new through-pan fitting and new nut and the gray silicone. When it was finally time I undid the body mount bolts in the cab and jacked the cab up like 6"-7" and put it on jackstands. Then I undid motor mount bolts, exhaust downpipe, fan shroud, and don't forget the underneath power steering low pressure return line. I then jacked the motor up at least 6" maybe 8" and I pulled the pan. It was tough to do with that gray silicone. I barely got it out but it came. Then with the pan out I cleaned the edges for the re-install and mounted the new through-pan fitting and then put new gray silicone on and put it back in. WHAT A JOB. But in the end it was worth it because then I installed the body lift and the new exhaust. The body lift is a somewhat dis-liked mod but I'll tell you what, this particular truck had 386K on her and the new lift hardware, properly installed tightened her up incredibly, made plenty of room for the downpipe and helped me to clear large tires with the add-a-leaf.

On a side note here: I noticed that the inside thread of the pan fitting nut was stripped out for a turn or so. I would recommend that you take a really close look at the inside of that nut to make sure the threads are good. Before you undo the mounting bracket for the dipstick tube either tie wire around the stub neck or put mini vice grips in the tube itself loosely so you don't damage the tube. Do something to keep that fitting from falling into the pan. You can actually buy the o-ring for the inside and a new nut from International and you can snake the o-ring into the inside and then put on a new nut and that may solve your problem. If you clean the pan area around the fitting really good with brake clean you can also use the gray silicone and that baby will stay in there and not leak. Take your time. Clean it up REALLY GOOD. Don't over-tighten the nut. It bends the inside fitting if you do and sort of dishes it out. If you are too cheap to get a new nut you can cut the flat flanges off and make it into a normal nut and turn it over and the threads will be better.

Sorry for the long post. Trying to save time and trouble on a rather tricky situation if the fitting falls into the pan.

 

Dont be sorry. That was a great post. Very helpful. I think I just might look in to a new nut. I had heard before that these strip out easy, and I bet mine is too. Thanks again

 

i have this problem too

 

i smeared RTV all around the outside of it to try to hold back the leak :/