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Saturday night about 5:00 I got started on making the pipes, My nieghboor was helping sense he can weld better than I can. After a few problems with clamps and what not I was driving her at 9:30 that night. I lost a bout 5 psi on the cold side. Turbo lag is bad but I havent moved my map sensor yet.
I want to wrap the pipes in exhuast wrap. What do you guys think i should use and where is a good place to get it?
What clamp are you guys using to clamp the early 99 intake the our turbo?
My stock one broke but I got it to work. Im going to get a new one I just wanted to see if there is something better to use.
I think a have a few more questions but I forgot them right now. Ill get pics as soon as I get it done the way I want it. It doesn't look so hot right now.
Once you move your MAP line you will like it better. For the clamp you need the clamp for the early 99. the y-pipe flange is wider than the OBS one so you should get the clamp from ford for the early 99.
I would not wrap the pipes. I don't think it would look good and it will trap moisture. Ceramic coating would be the way to go if you wanted.
I think the biggest reasons there aren't many (some are used a few older HD apps, L10 cummins (atleast some) have a air to water located inside the intake mainfold) air to water is availability, cost, weight and with an air to water you have two heat exchanges that have to happen, intake heat into the water then water back out to ambient air. I think the draw backs out weight the only advantage I can think of is short tubing resulting in less lag. Also It would make me nervous to have a possible liquid leak point inside of my intake due to possible leakage and hydro locking my engine.
I looked at those kits when you mentioned them in another thread but the problem is I am not sure if they flow enough air. Do they recommend one of the kits for the PSD or have flow numbers somewhere?
And i would think that if you get to the next one's CFM rating, you need to move up. just my educated guess. they also dont have the best customer service dept.
You would have to go with this kit Water to Air Intercooler
You would also still need custom tubing, and intake Y. Still not really sure where the cooler would go. Probably room over the passenger VC. extra electrical draw on the alt from the fans. I don't know. I think it could be a good setup its just new ground. If would be just as much work to install and could still end up costing close to $700 depending on your fab skills and parts hunting skills.
Ya, it's definately something that would take time.
I just remember your Intercooler job, and saying how bad the lag and boost drop was.
Maybe i'll be the one to break that ground.
Hard to decide between the 600 and 1200...
Where's the middle ground? I think the reason they state the minimum CFM is to avoid the chamber effect...
I just called ford about that clamp they want 30 bucks for it. Kinda pricey but I have to have it. I was kinda ify on the wrap part but I think ceramic is probaly out of my price range. I might paint if I don't wrap them.Does 5-6 psi sound like a lot to lose from this. I think I might have a leak somewhere. What would be the best way to check for one?ThanksJohn
yes 5-6 psi does seem high. I lost about 3 psi. I can still hit my peek of 33 it just takes more throttle longer to hit it. best way to check for leaks is to pressurize the system with 10-15 PSI air pressure. You can do that by building a cap that clamps into the intake tubing pre turbo and using a mini regulator to regulate the pressure you put to it. Here is an example Dieselsite Turbo Boost Leak Detector - 3"
Thanks TJ. I think making one will be a bit cheaper than the 60+ for that one. The most boost I have now is 15. I hit 24 at one time then I did the eot mod and it went to 20. The guage bounces a lot though but 24 was in the middle of the bounce. I hope the leak isnt in the ebay intercooler that was in "perfect running condition with no leaks". That will make me pretty mad.