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[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 28-Oct-01 AT 02:40 PM (EST)[/font][p]https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/mil1ion/3bdc50bf4aa27bfb.gif
Pull the valve covers & Right on top for the date codes,I think.
Some castings were around the sparkplugs area.
I found the casting # its D7OE it was on the bottom of the head
the block is D4OE-6O15-BA
the heads have adjustable valve train I though they stopped in 1969
can any one tell me what cc.the heads are and c/r it is the pistons are flat tops with four valve reliefs in them
I also dont know what the engine came out of.
Because the heads are a '77 casting and the block is a '74 casting its had some work done to it. In order to determine the CR we need to know if its been bored and decked. A stock configuration engine (ie. stock bore, stock deck height) would have a CR of about 9:1 provided the heads have a 60cc combustion chamber. I know of 3 different combustion chamber sizes for 302's: 60cc (most common on earier heads), 64cc (on some newer heads) and 69cc heads (least common). I never heard tell of the 69cc 302 heads (69cc is common for '71 to mid '80's 351W heads) until I acquired a 302 that came out of a truck. It had 69cc heads and factory flat tops.
Can anyone help me identify this head. I have a 91 f150 5.0 4x4 xlt lariat but I got the motor with heads out of an 88 EFI Econoline (not sure if e350 or e250) from a buddy who said the odometer had never rolled over and it only had the 70k the odometer said.
After getting the motor installed and running it was running good but I was losing coolant with white smoke and no coolant in oil so I decided to do head gaskets and after pulling one head all the gaskets looked great, so I'm worried one of the heads is cracked and I'm looking for new heads, but not sure how to make sure the heads I buy will have the same valve sizes and not sure what else I need to get right to have the motor run good. There's no one around me that will do head work at all. My truck had the smog pump and I think air was pumped into holes on the firewall side of the heads, but I pulled the smog pump out and got a smaller belt...and the heads on the 88 motor have the holes but they're plugged.
All my googling suggests I should see a code like E8TE between the intake surface and the block surface, but the only marking there is 28. Up in the corner on that side it either says AB or A8. Under the valve cover is a big 5, a small 0A14, and a Ford logo. There's also a 28 stamped on the radiator/exhaust corner and what looks like a 10 on the firewall/exhaust corner. I'm lost. I replaced the oil pump, water pump, timing chain and sprockets (which looked good except a bit of slack in the chain), cleaned up and painted the exhaust manifolds and valve covers, and replaced most sensors, egr valve, idle air valve, so I'm invested in this thing and don't want to put cracked heads on and end up having to take it all apart again.
I've been thinking about trying to find a way to seal the intake and exhaust ports one by one and see if they'll hold vacuum but I'm not sure if that would work or if the valves might leak a little. I got a 24" machinist straight edge that's straight to a thou and all my feeler
gauging suggests these things are flat and not warped at all. Thanks for any help.
That motor should have E7TE heads, for the most part they were the last revision used up until the end of production in '96. I think I see the casting number circled in this pic but can't make it out.
Thank you. I can't tell from the original picture either but I'll take a closer look at that spot tonight. I just got a right/left set from Allied Motor Parts for $531 total delivered after a 10% welcome discount. I sure hope the alt/power steering brackets bolt up right.
Note.. there is no L or R head they are identical, but there should be a threaded inserts in opposite ends of each head where the accessory brackets mount, and the "back" end of each head will have an open port with no insert at the top/outside corner where the air injection crossover tube attaches. If you are not using all the smog stuff then just plug these holes with 5/8 x 1" coarse thread bolts with copper washers to seal. These ports connect to the exhaust ports of each cylinder and as a result see very high temps, so RTV may not be sufficient as a sealant.
