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Just wanted to give everyone here a heads up on my steering problem, and how I fixed it.
I was also having very loose steering, similar to other posts. After replacing radius arm bushings, ball joints, and checking tierod ends, I attempted the adjustment on top of the steering box and noticed no difference.
I next looked a little closer and while watching the front end while a friend was turning the wheel, I noticed the power steering pump was moving several inches when steering wheel was turning. AN OBVIOUS SAFETY PROBLEM??!!
After further inspection, out of the 3 bolts that attach the pump to the frame, the 1 bottom bolt had broke, and I pulled it right out of the frame.
Im wondering if this is a common problem?
My steering was easily fixed with the replacement of this bolt with a 7/16 stainless 5" bolt.
I also tightened the box adjuster about 1/8 -1/4" of a turn. (unsure if I should have or not)
Truck now steers nice and tight, and no more play.
Just wanted to pass this along to others with similar loose steering problems.
NOTE......Make sure you take a good look at your front end steering components, or have a qualified person do so if your not comfortable, as a wrong adjustment, or bad link can be a safety issue!!
I'm glad you got that fixed, and thanks for passing the word on...even with all the front end play discussion on here, tightening those bolts isn't often mentioned.
Just so we're all on the same page, isn't it the steering box that mounts to the frame? The power steering pump is usually attached to the engine and hoses from the pump run to the steering box.
My steering was easily fixed with the replacement of this bolt with a 7/16 stainless 5" bolt.
.....
From what I know of F100's, this is a common problem. Here in Oz, we usually go one step further and crack the whole framerail too.....
That stainless bolt you mentioned probably isn't strong enough for the steering box. If you specifically asked for an 18-8 Stainless you'd get less strength than an equivalent of a grade 5 steel bolt (imperial with 3 lines on the head). Better to get a grade 8 (imperial) bolt with the 6 lines on the head. Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart. and Bolts and screws
It has to be at least as strong as what was previously in there.??
Not really.
Almost any stainless alloy has less "strength" than even a grade 5 bolt.
(check the charts linked above)
What was there was a grade 8 bolt (from the factory, I just replaced my box)
And you ought to be sure you torque them to the required 60ft lbs. Because once a bolt starts to get loose it's bound to fail under cycling load, as you were unfortunate enough to find out.
Thanks again for reminding us of this 'weak link' in the steering assembly.
I agree, this is a good thread and something to look out for. I think I am going out and re-torque my steering box bolts. I am thinking if one of them just spins round and round, that would be a good sign I have a broken bolt too.
I had a long bolt broken on my truck when I got it, too. Steering gear was loose and sloppy.
I bought a replacement bolt at the local Ford dealership. This was about 2 years ago. The replacement bolt was the exact replacement right down to the marks on the bolt head.
I replaced all the bolts on mine while I was at it. One of the unbroken bolts had stress fractures.
Good luck. You need to get the right bolts for your truck.