I'm new to the online forum, but here's a question. When the carb is primed (maybe gallon of fresh in old tank), she'll fire up, but won't keep running. Some backfire. Not sure how to safely remove tank(behind seat in cab) to clean. Possible trash in tank, line problem, not sure. Anyone with advice on where to start? This lady would like to at least get her running again (used to run better than any other vehicle I had, but has set a few years and afraid to pull or drag her due to brake issues). I can't even sell her unless she's running. Help? Ideas?

 

Welcome!
Just some useless suggestions;

One gal. in that tank might not be enough, (get Brinks to deliver some more)

See if you have gas coming out of the fuel pump when you crank it by undoing the gas line, (at the pump) disconnect the ign while doing this, the probably of a gas fire is likely.

With air pressure blow backwards up the fuel line at the pump (tank side) to the tank, then see if gas flows out on its own, it should, the probably of a gas fire is likely.

The back fire can be bad, the probably of a gas fire is likely.

What else guys?

 

"the probably of a gas fire is likely" ?

 

Take the gas cap off the tank.....If your tank does not run a dedicated vent, you need a vented cap and the vent needs to work. If the tank has a dedicated vent, check to ensure it is open.

 

Very possible that the fuel pump rubber components, the gaskets in the carb, and maybe even some hoses have deteriorated and/or gummed up from sitting.

Pulling the hose off at the carb as suggested above is a good bet, but get a 3-ft piece of similar hose so you can route it to a coffee can on the ground, next to the truck. It will come out forcefully! (if the pump is working)

 

Maybe not for you and I, but what about a person that has not been around vehicles all of their lives? We have no idea of the expertise of new people posting so wouldn’t it be just be a good idea to give them a heads up before things that might go boom do? Just askin'?

 

Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tank and use a piece of fuel line hose to temporarily connect it to a can of good clean gas. (Just push the hose to the bottom of the can.) If it starts and runs well until the can is empty it has to be a problem with the tank or siphon screen inside the tank. If it doesn't run or acts like it did with the gas tank connected, it is either the fuel pump, a filter or the carb. Next check to see that the fuel pump works and maintains several pounds of pressure. If it does OK it's probably the carb. get a kit for it, take it apart and soak it in carb cleaner and put it back together. Basically you just have to work your way through it one step at a time checking each part of the system.

If you have to take out the tank, first siphon it as empty as you can. Disconnect the electric wires, disconnect the fuel line, remove the short rubber hose connectint it to the filler pipe, Remove the tie down straps and get someone to help you take it out. I would do this outside. Pour the remaining gas in a bucket and dispose of it correctly. At this point I usually use my pressure washer to clean out the tank but be carefull not to cause any sparks until you get it thoroughly washed out. You won't be able to get rid of the stink completely but you will be able to make it safe to work on. Next remove the siphon and gauge sender unit. It will probably have a twist lock ring that will have to be turned out by using a screwdriver and a hammer. Be carefull and tap lightly. the siphon screen can be cleaned in carb cleaner. I use a heat gun or hail dryer to dry the water out of the tank after washing. It is very important to get the tank completely dry before installing it. When you are satisfied that all is right, reverse the above procedure to put everything back.

 

Not to contradict Dave but as was mentioned before, we're not quite sure how much experience this person has with trucks. What you mentioned is a tried and true procudere but I have to question sending a person with unknown mechanical experience into a test sequence with this much loose gas floating around.

Also, The thought of using a heat gun on a gas tank gives me the creeps - better hope its 100% clean and free of fumes. Perhaps using a little alcohol poured into the tank then drained out to absorb the water then letting it dry on it's own might be safer. I understand the tests you are trying to walk through but what you describe should only be done by someone with vast mechanical experience, and a big fire extinguisher!

 

Hi Dan,
No contradiction taken... I can understand your concerns. Let me assure you that after a thorough washing out with a pressure washer, you could throw lighted matches in the tank all day long and never get a puff. I have done this many times. It's the same procedure I followed whenever I had to repair a tank by brazing or torch soldering a hole or seam leak. Before I had a pressure washer I used to fill the tank several times with hot water and dishwashing detergent. Stop and think about this Dan... When you have nothing left but some latent odor, not gasoline fumes, there is no way you can get a fire or fume detonation. That odor left over is not from gasoline, it's from substances broken down from the gasoline that permeate every little nook and cranny after prolonged exposure to the gasoline.

Yes, it is true that you could try to let the tank air dry but there is a problem with that. First it is a matter of having the time to let it set. Second, due to the way the tanks are constructed, you will never get it to completely dry out on it's own. The water will lay around in there some way or other no mater how many times you move and twist the tank around trying to shake it out. If you don't get it dryed out, you got trouble. One alternate method I used was to let the tank sit out in hot sun with the exhaust hose of a shop vac blowing through it. An electric leaf blower would work just as well or better if you have one. These alternate methods might suit you better if you are still squemish about the heat gun method. I am sure that someone out there can come up with other methods I haven't thought of. The main objective is to get the tank absolutely dry.

Your idea of using alcohol to remove the water is a good final step but it creates the problem you were tring to get rid of by washing out the tank. It might serve as a good final step after the work on the tank is done. I usually keep a case of dry-gas around the shop and throw in a can before filling the tank.

Finally, you mentioned the fact that this person, or others, might not have a lot of experience working with trucks. I understand this, but you have to start someplace. Would you rather have just ignored his questions and have him attempt something without any guideance? Granted, the fuel system is a dangerous area of the vehicle to work with. But I gotta tell you, some of the other things I have seen people do are worse because they don't know any better. For example, welding, torch brazing, and cutting opperations in the wrong place have probably caused far more fires than working with the fuel system. That is because people have no exoectation of what could happen. If they cut a fuel line or a brake line they get a fire they can't extinguish or don't know how to. About fifteen years ago I had a neighbor who had a bad fire because he left a battery charger precariously balanced on the air cleaner of a car engine. He went to lunch, it fell off and shorted out the battery, and he got a fire. It was a beautifull 1967 Ford LTD 2DR hardtop. He lost it, his other car, a new garage and the whole top of his house. He was one of those guys that would not ask anybody how to do anything. His garden hose and cheap discount store fire extinguisher were of little help and too late. My point is that at least this fellow is on the forum asking for help.

One final note... I was remiss not to have mentioned that he should have a good fire extinguisher of the right type handy. I appreciate your bringing that up. That is one of the great things about this forum. What one person misses another can point out. Let's take that precautionary note a step further. Any garage or shop should have an ample size fire extinguisher of the ABC type, (all types of fires), available and ready to be used. Stay away from those cheap plastic toys that Wall Mart sells. Go to a place that sells fire extinguisgers and getn the right thing to start with. They can be periodically inspected and refilled if needed. Also it would be a great idea to have an extra person there as a fire watch with extinguisher in hand. Five seconds can make a great difference.

 

I really appreciate all the different responses to my question. I have been around the garage a few times with my dad, but it has been a while and the old noggin doesn't always retain well. As to the remark about naming "her", actually, "Old Blue" IS her name, thank you. I have always named my vehicles in some form, and the ones I refer to as "her" have been my favorites. The male ones, well, just didn't cut it. Have you seen "Gone in 60 Seconds"? That georgeous Mustang was female. Nuff said. Anyway, thanks a bunch. Hope to get started next weekend. Wish me luck!

 

Do you have the stock mechanical fuel pump with the glass bowl? That's helpful; you can easily see if there's crud or water coming from the gas tank.

On the one-barrel carbs, there's a "thing" with 3 screws on the top of the float chamber. If you remove it, you can check the fuel level in the carb, if you don't have a carb with the glass float chamber.

You can usually check if there's fuel reaching the carb, though, by working the linkage by hand, which will operate the accelerator pump. You should be able to see and hear the squirt of gas (if you have the air cleaner off).

If this check does show there is fuel in the float chamber, I guess you have to look closer at the carb...

One other thought... if the engine stops running once you let the key go from "start" to "run", that could mean an open ignition ballast resistor.

 

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the "note." I guess sometimes I can be a little bit of a whimp when it comes to safety and giving advice to younger folks (younger in experience). That comes from some horrible (and all very careless) accidents I saw in my 24 years in the service. Shoot, I've pulled many a gas tank washed it out and then brazed a seam or something. But, like I said, I have all those little safety things stored in the back of my head so when I'm about to blow myself up, the little voice comes on and says "hey stupid, is that the gallon of laquer thinner on the work bench in the exhaust stream from where you are going to braze that thing."

Four things absolutely "command my complete respect" (scare the livin' ****** outta me) when it comes to this kind of work: Liquid oxygen (which we don't have to worry about) Lead Acid Batteries, Gasoline fumes; and fire. I've seen the grusome remains of some very experienced people who were involved in accidents involving these things.

Ditto on the shop safety equipment - fire extinguisher, first aid kit (with ample gause wrap to stop bleeding on deep hand cuts) and for the married guys a $50 Nordstroms gift certificate for the Wife when you work throught that saturday night that was supposed to be dinner out!

 

Is it a 292 or a223?

 

Ten points to Bob for Change of subject!

 

Dan,
I have noticed a lot of side comments here on the forum regarding wives. I too have my problems in that area but not in regard to working when we are supposed to go out. Of course being retired does change that a bit. My wife doesn't like it when I drag in vehicles. She really starts to chirp when I'm set for a buy. For the most part she's a real pain in the posterior but she does have her good points. For one thing, she is not the typical spend thrift type. If anything, I win that prize. My garages are under our house living quarters and I have to be careful about fumes from a number of things like welding, painting, and for some reason the smell of those waffer discs that are so handy for sheet metal and body work. When ever I use one of those she reacts like I'm skinning a skunk in the parlor. Go Figure... She also abjects to the noise emitted from certain operations. When I chuck up a big piece in one of my lathes that likes to squaw when turning she gets really nasty. It didn't help my case the last time when I handed her some of those ear plugs. What's a guy to do??? For the most part she has reluctantly accepted my nasty garage and shop habits as an embedded part of my genetic code. Of course she is perfect so I have no defense or a leg to stand on.