Ac Diagram
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Ac Diagram
Anyone have pictures of there AC? I am not getting any juice over to my Ac pump, but do get juice at the accumulator. Id like to see pictures of everybody that can there wiring of the AC. Like where all the wires go on over by the accumulator. Here is what I am talking about. I suspect a missing wire.
I have a prong broke off but no wire to go to it.
I have a prong broke off but no wire to go to it.
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From: Suffolk, VA USA
By the accumulator, do you mean the low pressure switch? The thing in your picture is your blower motor resistor. The missing prong is normal. Disconnect the wire plug to the low pressure switch on the side of the thing that looks like a tall black can bolted to the front of the heater box....just in front of that plug you took the picture of. Jump the two wires with your control box in the cab set at A/C on. If the compessor kicks on when you jump the wires, your system is fine and you don't enough refrigerant in the system for it to run....that's why the low pressure switch is there. Only jump these wires very briefly.
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
went and pushed on the shrader valves and nothing but a little air comes out. We jumped the wire over you said and it makes the AC pump clutch click.
Now the question is how much r-12 do I need?
Now the question is how much r-12 do I need?
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From: Suffolk, VA USA
If its down on pressure you should do the R134A conversion now. Flush the system before you vacuum it, put the R134A fittings on (you can get them at just about any parts store) then add three 12oz cans of R134A refrigerant and two 3oz cans of PAG100 oil.
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From: Suffolk, VA USA
The flush you can buy, add to the system, and run it for a while...no big deal. Vacuuming the system means you have to hook it up to a machine that will literally suck everything, including air out of the system. You'll need to go to a shop that has a special machine to do that. Many shops will have it.
Vacuuming not only cleans the system out, but the systems ability to hold that vacuum demonstrates it doesn't have any leaks.
It should cost somewhere around $40 to get it vacuumed and about $40 for the refrigerant, oil, and retrofit kit. Make sure you talk with the shop ahead of time so that if it doesn't hold vacuum, you can fix it and get it re-vacuumed at no extra charge. If it leaks, you're looking at seal replacement on the easy/low end, or possibly componenets like a condensor. That can start running into a few bucks.
Vacuuming not only cleans the system out, but the systems ability to hold that vacuum demonstrates it doesn't have any leaks.
It should cost somewhere around $40 to get it vacuumed and about $40 for the refrigerant, oil, and retrofit kit. Make sure you talk with the shop ahead of time so that if it doesn't hold vacuum, you can fix it and get it re-vacuumed at no extra charge. If it leaks, you're looking at seal replacement on the easy/low end, or possibly componenets like a condensor. That can start running into a few bucks.
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From: Niceville, FL.
If you're going to do a proper conversion to R134A you need to change the accumulator and orifice to ones specifically for R134A. And you also need to install a High Pressure Cut Out (HPCO) switch (click on:AC - HIGH-PRESSURE CUT-OUT SWITCH KIT - JCWhitney Auto Parts ). Here is a pretty good link on what to do: Auto Repair Advice » Retrofitting your car’s A/C System . With a proper conversion the performance on these trucks is just as good as with R12. POL or polyolester oil is better than PAG oil for retrofits since it blends well with the old mineral oil used in R12 systems.
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