Replacing fuel lines on engine
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Freshman User
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Replacing fuel lines on engine
Does anyone know what exactly I need to remove to install the 2 fuel lines that comes up from the quick connect on the levt side of the engine to the pump and water seperator? I got the lines from ford, 80 buck fuel line tool 10 bucks. just need to know a easy sequense on what to disassemble to remove old ones and reinstall new ones..
THANKS
if anyone has a service manual and can send me the pages for that PM me..
THANKS
if anyone has a service manual and can send me the pages for that PM me..
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
If you can wait until Thursday I can tell you. I have a spare engine up north and will be there Thursday. I can look at it and tell you what you need to know. until then I am in the dark. I would guess that accessory bracket needs to come off or at least laid to the side but I can't say for sure with out looking at it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Ok I looked yesterday. The bracket for the a/c and PS needs to be removed. I would try to unbolt the A/C compressor and lay it off to the driver side. Unplug the hose to the vacuum pump and unbolt the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the engine. Hopefully that will give you enough room to work. BUT before you do that there is one clamp down just under the oil cooler header for the lines and there is also one up top that uses an intake manifold bolt to secure it. This will be tricky replacement cause there is alot of junk in the way!
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Freshman User
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OK thanks for the info, I just got a clunker car (96 saturn 40mpg highway) to hold me over while I take this apart to do the lines, I am also doing the clutch while I have this clunker car. I plan on putting in the SMF , I spoke with ford and they said that was they are doing now on clutch replacements on whatever come in for that.
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Freshman User
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This will be tricky replacement cause there is alot of junk in the way
now what could be in the way? I wish I had the service manual.. with pics. makes things a little more understandable
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Sorry for being late to the party. I just looked at the repair manual and there just isn't a lot of info or pictures. All it says is remove the fule lines and re-install...no joke. I guess they are relying on mechanical ability. This would be a good subject for a write-up on this.
The only picture I could find is below. TJ already mentioned the brackets that look like they need to be removed/loosened.
You can get a better view of the fuel lines through the wheel well. Maybe Removing the left font tire will give you more room to work around the engine oil cooler.
Item Description
1 Fuel Tube Jumper (Blue)
2 Fuel Supply and Return
3 Fuel Tube Jumper (Gray)
A Close Redundant Clips
The only picture I could find is below. TJ already mentioned the brackets that look like they need to be removed/loosened.
You can get a better view of the fuel lines through the wheel well. Maybe Removing the left font tire will give you more room to work around the engine oil cooler.
Item Description
1 Fuel Tube Jumper (Blue)
2 Fuel Supply and Return
3 Fuel Tube Jumper (Gray)
A Close Redundant Clips
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Here's the factory service manual write-up, verbatim:
Fuel Return Tubes, Metal
NOTE: Refer to Push Connect Fittings below
The 7.3L diesel engine (6007) uses a combination of flexible and steel tubing fuel supply and return tubes. The fuel tube assemblies are secured to the body rails with clips.
A damaged section of tubing longer than 305mm (12 inches) can be cut out of the existing tube assembly and replaced by a comparable service tubing section, spliced into the tube assembly by means of connecting hoses and retaining clamps. A damaged section of tubing shorter than 305mm (12 inches) can be cut out of the tube assembly and replaced by a length of service hose and two retaining clamps.
All replacement hoses must be cut to a length and inside diameter that will ensure proper clamp retention.
Removal
Disconnect the damaged tube at both ends.
Remove the tube from the holding clips along the frame.
Remove all damaged hose and tube sections.
Installation
Cut a new section of steel tubing to approximately the same length and inside diameter as the section to be replaced. Allow extra length for flaring the ends of the tubing where required. Square the ends of the cut tubing with a file.
Ream the inside edges of the cut tubing with the reamer blade on the tube cutter. Be sure metal chips are removed from inside the tube(s). Double flare the ends of the cut tubing, as required.
Bend the tube section to conform to the contour of the original tube. Cut an ample length of hose to form a coupling between the ends of the fuel tubes. Connect the hose couplings to the tubing and install the retaining clamps.
Position the tube assemblies in the clips. Connect the tubes and check for leaks.
NOTE: Refer to Push Connect Fittings below
The 7.3L diesel engine (6007) uses a combination of flexible and steel tubing fuel supply and return tubes. The fuel tube assemblies are secured to the body rails with clips.
A damaged section of tubing longer than 305mm (12 inches) can be cut out of the existing tube assembly and replaced by a comparable service tubing section, spliced into the tube assembly by means of connecting hoses and retaining clamps. A damaged section of tubing shorter than 305mm (12 inches) can be cut out of the tube assembly and replaced by a length of service hose and two retaining clamps.
All replacement hoses must be cut to a length and inside diameter that will ensure proper clamp retention.
Removal
Disconnect the damaged tube at both ends.
Remove the tube from the holding clips along the frame.
Remove all damaged hose and tube sections.
Installation
Cut a new section of steel tubing to approximately the same length and inside diameter as the section to be replaced. Allow extra length for flaring the ends of the tubing where required. Square the ends of the cut tubing with a file.
Ream the inside edges of the cut tubing with the reamer blade on the tube cutter. Be sure metal chips are removed from inside the tube(s). Double flare the ends of the cut tubing, as required.
Bend the tube section to conform to the contour of the original tube. Cut an ample length of hose to form a coupling between the ends of the fuel tubes. Connect the hose couplings to the tubing and install the retaining clamps.
Position the tube assemblies in the clips. Connect the tubes and check for leaks.
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Freshman User
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here is a pic of what I got from ford to order the correct lines, they are the ones that are circled. I guess I also have to get the tool to take apart the quick connects.
Here's the factory service manual write-up, verbatim:
Fuel Return Tubes, Metal
NOTE: Refer to Push Connect Fittings below
The 7.3L diesel engine (6007) uses a combination of flexible and steel tubing fuel supply and return tubes. The fuel tube assemblies are secured to the body rails with clips.
A damaged section of tubing longer than 305mm (12 inches) can be cut out of the existing tube assembly and replaced by a comparable service tubing section, spliced into the tube assembly by means of connecting hoses and retaining clamps. A damaged section of tubing shorter than 305mm (12 inches) can be cut out of the tube assembly and replaced by a length of service hose and two retaining clamps.
All replacement hoses must be cut to a length and inside diameter that will ensure proper clamp retention.
Removal
Disconnect the damaged tube at both ends.
Remove the tube from the holding clips along the frame.
Remove all damaged hose and tube sections.
Installation
Cut a new section of steel tubing to approximately the same length and inside diameter as the section to be replaced. Allow extra length for flaring the ends of the tubing where required. Square the ends of the cut tubing with a file.
Ream the inside edges of the cut tubing with the reamer blade on the tube cutter. Be sure metal chips are removed from inside the tube(s). Double flare the ends of the cut tubing, as required.
Bend the tube section to conform to the contour of the original tube. Cut an ample length of hose to form a coupling between the ends of the fuel tubes. Connect the hose couplings to the tubing and install the retaining clamps.
Position the tube assemblies in the clips. Connect the tubes and check for leaks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Damn, I got the wrong fuel lines.
You need to remove the fuel filter housing to replace them. You should get new rubber lines at the bottom of the filter housing too. I'll try to dig up more info for ya.
You need to remove the fuel filter housing to replace them. You should get new rubber lines at the bottom of the filter housing too. I'll try to dig up more info for ya.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Not much in the manual for this either:
Place an appropriate container under the fuel/water drain hose. Open the fuel filter/water separator drain valve to release the fuel pressure. Completely drain the fuel filter/water separator assembly.
Loosen marmon clamp and two clamps. Remove the compressor manifold..
Disconnect the two fuel lines at the fuel pressure regulator.
Disconnect the fuel/water drain hose.
Disconnect and position the fuel filter/water separator harness electrical connector aside.
Remove the cover. Disconnect the fuel outlet hose between the fuel pump and fuel filter/water separator assembly.
Disconnect the fuel return hose at the fuel pressure regulator valve.
Remove and discard the hose clamp at the high-pressure stage of the fuel pump.
Remove two bolts at the back of the fuel filter/water separator assembly. Disconnect the hose connecting fuel filter/water separator assembly to high-pressure stage of the fuel of the fuel pump. Remove the fuel filter/water separator assembly.
Look here for fuel pump replacement, the process is the same except for the pump removal. You could replace that too, just in case. They are prone to leaks due to the new diesel.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-problems.html
Place an appropriate container under the fuel/water drain hose. Open the fuel filter/water separator drain valve to release the fuel pressure. Completely drain the fuel filter/water separator assembly.
Loosen marmon clamp and two clamps. Remove the compressor manifold..
Disconnect the two fuel lines at the fuel pressure regulator.
Disconnect the fuel/water drain hose.
Disconnect and position the fuel filter/water separator harness electrical connector aside.
Remove the cover. Disconnect the fuel outlet hose between the fuel pump and fuel filter/water separator assembly.
Disconnect the fuel return hose at the fuel pressure regulator valve.
Remove and discard the hose clamp at the high-pressure stage of the fuel pump.
Remove two bolts at the back of the fuel filter/water separator assembly. Disconnect the hose connecting fuel filter/water separator assembly to high-pressure stage of the fuel of the fuel pump. Remove the fuel filter/water separator assembly.
Look here for fuel pump replacement, the process is the same except for the pump removal. You could replace that too, just in case. They are prone to leaks due to the new diesel.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-problems.html
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Here's a link to some great pdf files you can download. There's a lot of info and pictures.
FDDTS - Tech Publications
FDDTS - Tech Publications