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Overheating on Hill, Need Help?

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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by quality1construction
299K, Waiting to turn into a new truck at the 300k mark! I suspect the clutch is bad, it didn't appear to be turning very fast the last time it got hot, plus one of the blades has a crack in it, so I should probably replace both fan and clutch. Is there a HD Clutch for these? Whats the thoughts of the 203 thermostat?
If you are not running a thermostat, the engine shouldn't reach the 203° that the 203° stat allows. If you are overheating with no stat, I suspect the clutch like previously stated.

I run the 203° stat with no noticable difference. If you choose the 203 I would get the billet housing also. The stock one is prone to leak after removal and replacement.

New clutch, fan and stat with housing and you should be set.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:04 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by quality1construction
No, No Mark, I heard the saying its a new truck when it turns over, 100k, the truck will not go anywhere, its my baby!! 7.3 till the wheels fall off, then some!
Then if it's your baby get that damned water replaced in the morning and spring for a new fan. I think the clutch cost me 50ish but don't really remember. To bad you aren't in Charlotte cuz I have a pal who's parts manager at one of the stealership's here cuz that fan may be a stealership item. I don't know.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:12 PM
  #18  
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Will do Mark, I am moving down to Edgefield,SC Later this year, but still 3 hrs from Charlotte. Thanks anyway. I will get it taken care of.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:18 PM
  #19  
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if you dont have a stat in there..the coolent never stops to cool down in the rad....it just keeps getting hotter and hotter...
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:33 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
if you dont have a stat in there..the coolent never stops to cool down in the rad....it just keeps getting hotter and hotter...

Fully agree, but he said he pulled it because of an already exsisting overheating problem. It's probably not a good idea on a hard working truck. But back in the antique days we did it for a reason. I would never remove it from my truck unless I knew for sure it was stuck shut and had no other options at the time.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by quality1construction
When I pulled it into the gas station to let it cool down, it took about 3.5 gallon to fill it back up, it was steaming and bubbling very hot. No signs of oil in water. It ran great home just starts to climb on a good run up hill.
That usually means you have a leak. Maybe a heater core or hose.

Originally Posted by quality1construction
I don't believe that they need a thermostat I know of several members that run with none. It just makes it easier to bring the engine up to temperature. I could be wrong though, someone will tell me!
No t-stat will cause one to warm up slower. Water will flow without have a chance to warm up.

Originally Posted by quality1construction
I plan on flushing and refilling with antifreeze, but had to use water, nothing else available at the time. It had antifreeze when it overheated. I pulled the thermostat on the way back from SC Last month when it stuck shut and overheated coming into NC.
How hot did it get?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:47 PM
  #22  
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From: Charlotte-Fairbanks-Bflo
Originally Posted by quality1construction
I don't believe that they need a thermostat I know of several members that run with none. It just makes it easier to bring the engine up to temperature. I could be wrong though, someone will tell me!
Damn, I missed this one, thanx ZX. Just the opposite is true. In a cold climate and no thermostat you'll freeze your fanny off in a hurry.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by zx250



No t-stat will cause one to warm up slower. Water will flow without have a chance to warm up
this is true to a point..once it starts to heat up..it keeps climbing....on an empty tuck is one thing..but pulling a load..no way in hell id do it...i dont have 10k to spend.....the t stat could have been the problem to begin with...pulling it helped till he had to work the truck....he lost coolent cause it got hot and pushed it out....i would put in a new stat and do a couple pulls close to home then go from there....
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:53 PM
  #24  
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Click on the link below for the picture.
You absolutely must have that thermostat installed for the engine to recieve proper cooling circulation.
That flare at the bottom of the 'stat redirects the coolant so that when the engine is hot all the coolant flows through the radiator. Without that little valve at the bottom a large percentage of the hot coolant goes right back to the engine and gets heated up even more.
Put that 'stat back in!!!!

DIESELSITE 203* Thermostat
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:54 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Click on the link below for the picture.
You absolutely must have that thermostat installed for the engine to recieve proper cooling circulation.
That flare at the bottom of the 'stat redirects the coolant so that when the engine is hot all the coolant flows through the radiator. Without that little valve at the bottom a large percentage of the hot coolant goes right back to the engine and gets heated up even more.
Put that 'stat back in!!!!

DIESELSITE 203* Thermostat

thanks Dan..thats just what i was looking for....
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:57 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
this is true to a point..once it starts to heat up..it keeps climbing....on an emty tuck is one thing..but pulling a load..no way in hell id do it...i dont have 10k to spend.....the t stat could have been the problem to begin with...pulling it helped till he had to work the truck....he lost coolent cause it got hot and pushed it out....i would put in a new stat and do a couple pulls close to home then go from there....
Oh, I agree completly, I was referring to him wanting to warm up faster. I think it would warm up slower and keep climbing.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by zx250
Oh, I agree completly, I was referring to him wanting to warm up faster. I think it would warm up slower and keep climbing.
i new what you meant..and Mark is right..no stat in the winter = frozzen ride to work...but felt he should know the after affects when it does get hot..but Dan said it much better then i did..
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:30 PM
  #28  
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Yes. I was trying to say that running with no thermostat would cause it to warm up slower. I did pull the stat, alongside the road when it overheated, it was stuck completely shut. I think I may have a pin hole in the heater core, I am going to just bypass the heater core, good for the summer anyway, and put a new 203 thermostat and billet housing on and see what happens. Thanks for all the advice!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:38 PM
  #29  
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Good luck and let us know what you figure out.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:50 PM
  #30  
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Yeah, running no 'stat in these is a very bad idea. The back of the block can get almost no cooling at all!
 
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