Big panel replacement
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Tasmania, Australia
Big panel replacement
Just thought I would post this as a help to anyone thinking of doing big panel replacements. I am by no means an expert and nore is my bodyman friend.
I dropped off one of my 57 F100 doors after getting it sandblasted yesterday and my friend told me how he would fix my lower section of the door, I had already cut off about 4"s of lower rusted sheet metal and got a new section made but bigger, he is going to use a special air powered crimping tool that will crimp the bottom of the existing skin, this will allow the new section of sheet metal to be layed in the crimped section and spot welded in, thus reducing the need for a full weld all the way along between the two panels, the crimped section creates a stronger section all the way along the skin aswell. He will then use a special sealer on the inside of the door and I am guessing a thin layer of filler on the outside. This has to be done to both of my doors and now that I think of it, if I go ahead with a big back window swap we could do the same on the back section of the cab but with a lot more welds along the back for strength.
I will post some pics as we get into it. I hope this might help someone in the near future with their own big panel work. Ash in OZ
I dropped off one of my 57 F100 doors after getting it sandblasted yesterday and my friend told me how he would fix my lower section of the door, I had already cut off about 4"s of lower rusted sheet metal and got a new section made but bigger, he is going to use a special air powered crimping tool that will crimp the bottom of the existing skin, this will allow the new section of sheet metal to be layed in the crimped section and spot welded in, thus reducing the need for a full weld all the way along between the two panels, the crimped section creates a stronger section all the way along the skin aswell. He will then use a special sealer on the inside of the door and I am guessing a thin layer of filler on the outside. This has to be done to both of my doors and now that I think of it, if I go ahead with a big back window swap we could do the same on the back section of the cab but with a lot more welds along the back for strength.
I will post some pics as we get into it. I hope this might help someone in the near future with their own big panel work. Ash in OZ
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
OR...you can use a panel adhesive and bond them in as I did. I'm a bit surprised that your body man didn't want to do that as it is common practice today in auto body repair shops. I turned out very nice.
My album: 1956 Ford F100 4x2 - Door Skins
My album: 1956 Ford F100 4x2 - Door Skins
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Yes the body adhesive would be a better choice than spot welding in this instance but I'm hesitant to recommend either. The problem is in using a flanging tool to put a flange in the repair panel along the join. If you lay a straightedge against the door at the height the join will occur, you'll find the panel has a decided front to back curve or bow.
When you flange the panel, it will automatically flatten out any bow in the replacement panel unless you use a beading machine with a flanging die and are careful to keep the curve in the panel. Now when you joint the two panels the upper panel will need to flatten at the seam to meet up to the flat lower panel which will result in a large hollow forming along the seam. It will be impossible to correct the shape.
When you flange the panel, it will automatically flatten out any bow in the replacement panel unless you use a beading machine with a flanging die and are careful to keep the curve in the panel. Now when you joint the two panels the upper panel will need to flatten at the seam to meet up to the flat lower panel which will result in a large hollow forming along the seam. It will be impossible to correct the shape.
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