The softlocker is the newer Detroit Lockers. They aren't as harsh and loud on engagement as they used to be.

 

okay guys i finally found the shop that did the gears on my mustang a while back, and i trust these guys completely. after speaking with the guy down there i have come to a decision. he says NO on the locker for street truck, and that the TrueTrac will be plenty strong for what i need. it acts open until needed, and when it does lock it locks completely like a spool until unlocked (decelerate)
and i am going to go to a 4.30 instead of a 4.10

and he's almost 1000 bucks cheaper than the quote i got from the shop doing my tranny. he will need my truck for 2 days and i should hopefully have it all done by next weekend as long as i get my truck out of tranny shop in time.
they tore it open and found CARNAGE just like i told them they would !!!
"it's just a solenoid we need to change" they said but i knew better, whole thing has to be redone AGAIN, and the converter has to be redone AGAIN...

 

I have a detroit locker its called a softlocker..Let us know how it all comes out...I'd love to know if you had one rear tire off the ground if you would get any forward motion out of the other to get you going....Really nice to have for a big truck.


Dick

 

You're welcome.

I forget the truetrac is a "Detroit Truetrac". Yes, I'm talking about the locker feel. Typically when someone references a "Detroit" they mean the locker one. The Truetrac is almost always used to mean the LSD, and not "Detroit".

 

Definitely let us know how it turns out. From my understanding it does not function how you were told. What you describe sounds like the locker. The Truetrac works by biasing torque. In most applications they have a 2:1 and a 3:1 bias ratio. Meaning if there is 180 ft lbs delivered to the axle, as much as 120ft lbs can be delivered to one wheel, they other has to be able to hold 60 ft lbs of torque. There is a similar description to this in the link I posted. Most all LSDs work off of torque biasing.

Since I don't have any direct experience with one though I may be incorrect. Definitely report back!

 

On Eatons website..

Note: TrueTrac differentials require a certain amount of resistance at the ground in order to start
the power transfer. A TrueTrac differential may not transfer power if the spinning wheel is off the
ground. If spinning occurs, often a light application of the brakes, while carefully applying power,
will slow the spinning wheel enough to allow the TrueTrac differential to transfer torque to the
other wheel.
APPLICATION
Tractech Engineering approval for use of TrueTrac differentials in various vehicles is established with the
understanding that the vehicle will be operated with approved factory engine and driveline components,
as specified for that vehicle by the vehicle/axle manufacturer. Any increase in the size of the vehicle's
engine, tires (over 32" diameter), weight, etc. may void the Tractech Limited Warranty on page 6.
Any such vehicle modification should be reviewed by Tractech Engineering before using the product.


So this is typical of all LS'S...If you really want offroad ability you have to go locked. Also soft mud and snow and ice A limited slip may not work at all unless you want to be on the brakes trying to go forward. Doesn't make much sense.


Dick

 

Danny any update on the tru-trac?

 

Had a true track put in recently to replace the old open diff I had before. (mods listed in sig - the open diff just didn't give me enough traction.)

I wanted something that was as transparent as possible on the street, could give me more traction in a straight line and liked that it wouldn't 'clunk' like an outright locker possibly confusing my wife. This is primarily a street driven truck (2wd), but it seems to work well on loose ground too... although I'd like to get some more testing in before having an opinion on it's offroad capabilities.

Another thing I took into account is the life expectancy and easy of maintenance. I don't need special friction modifiers and don't have clutch plates to wear out. I also found a few write ups on other sites by guys who used them off-road and were pleasantly surprised at how well they kept up with similarly modded trucks with full lockers.

(If you're building a hardcore off road rig... lockers make sense, maybe an air or e-locker up front... but for anything that's primarily driven on the street - I love how smooth these are and how well they work.)

So far, by the time one wheel spins, the other is too. On really wet pavement or ice it's easy to kick the rear end out a little bit, but easing off on the throttle brings it right back in. I haven't had a problem with traction when just easing the throttle in my 'stock' tune, but I might get to see more ice on an upcoming road trip.

What honestly amazed me is how smooth the engagement is. Except that It'll now roast both tires instead of one when I'm being (blatantly) enthusiastic, I wouldn't know it was back there. If I encourage it to step the rear end out going around a corner, easing off the throttle brings it right back in. I'll try to remember to repost after I get chance to tow with it. I would suggest this to anyone who spends more time on the pavement than off.

 

X2

If I ever can get the money together I'm put one in the front and one in the rear. Never going back to a clutch type LSD again. Not a fan of friction modifier and contaminated oil from clutch pack wear.